Ferguson 2 Furrow
General Purpose Plough
fig 1 parts of a ferguson 2 furrow plough.
The information here is supporting material or in addition
to three ferguson publications.
I recommend the second of the two although I think the first is more commonly
available. 3 is also useful to check plough setup and workout what kind
of plough you have(digger, semi-digger, Gereral purpose).
1. The plough instruction book
2. Ferguson Mouldboard Plough Manual
Mouldboard Plow Service Manual (available to download)
where you can download a copy of an American PLOW manual from 1955. Download
manual hereHow to plough with a Ferguson 2 Furrow
Orignals paper can be found on eBay
prepare to pay handsomely, or for a reprinted edition of manuals 1 &2
go to www.fergusontractor.co.uk
There is always a difference between what the Ferguson Instruction
book tells you, what is implied and what you actually do. The information
here serves as an addition to the Ferguson plough manuals and should be
seen as extra notes. Read the Ferguson Mouldboard Plough Manual first!
The original manuals are really good, written at a time without spin and
hype "I just want to know how it works in the least amount of words and
pictures" I am aware that not everyone owns an original or copy of the
Ferguson manual. Look at the links above as a star point.
Before starting spread out the ploughed up soil at both headlands.
This will result in a cleaner entry at the start of each furrow.
The most important thing with this run is to get it in a straight line.
Follow the poles you have already put in the ground (3 max in competition)
It is allowed that someone else can take these out for you.
Front wheels - straight
Back furrow in the ground only, Front furrow handle wound right up.
Width adjuster - not used
Depth 3" max.
At the end of this run it will look as though you have a groove running
up the middle of your plot with one side (Second Run) deeper than the
other(First Run) Front wheels astride the furrow and left hand wheel up
against the earth you have ploughed from First Run. Ploughing back to
the right of the First furrow you have just cut. still with just the back
Depth 4" Max.
Third - Forth Run
Now you are putting in the first 2 visible furrows.
Front Wheel - ?
bases - Lower link adjustment -?
Depth 6"-7" ?
Fifth -Tenth Run
You now put in 6 more runs (3 in each direction) which makes 8 visible
runs in total or 16 furrows in total, . The First and second runs get
buried as part of the Third and Forth run. These runs should be at normal
Front right wheel up against the furrow wall
Both bases to normal depth,
Width adjusted to be equal for front and back furrow (10")
Now you have to measure from your furrow wall to the plot next to you
with a lower number. You need to measure lots of points along the row
as although your furrow may be straight the person next to you may not.
Place little sticks in the ground to give a straight line to follow with
your front left wheel.
Both bases to normal depth.
Width adjusted to be equial for front and back furrow (10") - If after
measuring the distance to the next plot generally at narrows or widens
to can use the furrow width adjuster to narrow or widen your furrow to
try and correct the problem. Depth 6"-7"
Twelth Run to 20" to go
It is ploughing as normal, monitoring the distance at the start, end and
middle of the furrows are compared to each other. they should be parallel.
Use the furrow width adjuster to alter the start or end distances between
Front Right Wheel in the furrow.
Both Bodies to normal depth Adjust width as needed
20" before the end
Front Left wheel now goes up against the furrow Slide the plough
bodies to the left so one furrow out of two will be cut (Cut more rather
Depth 3" 1/2 to 4" Max.
Setup and Modifications.
For better Ploughing - Tractor & Plough Setup and modifications
Track width settings
the rear tyres should be the thinner 11.2"x28" width not 12.4"x28". Right
hand rear wheel Rim set inside the centre disk on a smallest 48" centres.
Front Furrow Width Adjuster
The front furrow width adjuster is essential to control the
width of the front furrow slice campared to the back. By moving the lever
forward or back you make the slice thinner or thicher. Fred made his
own Furrow width adjuster as the Ferguson one is to harsh a gap between
steps. "Take it down to 5mm tooth gap" Fred says
Cross shaft adjustment.
Grind off the nobble on the underside of the plough. The plough can easily slide along the cross shaft if the U bolts are undone. Add a collar with retaining nut to prevent the plough from sliding on the cross shaft. This also has the ability to be able to position the plough at any point along the cross shaft. This is useful on the second to last pass when it would be of an advantage. (photo of the plough moved over to the left & normal position)
In some competitions an adjustable toplink is allowed in others it is strongly disapproved or banned
Initially the toplink should be set to 25"
A ferguson toplink is a catagory 1link (CAT 1)
Add a ruler to the adjustable lower link lever
By adding a ruler to the top section and a fixed marker to the moving lower part you will be able to see when the lever is wound down or up the current position.
Wind the lower link down by 4-5 turnes once the front wheels have bumped out at the headland.
Calipers / Dividers 20"
Make a giant pair of calipers/ Dividers 20" to measure how many furrows there are left to get out of the unploughed land (picture) Fred And another couple of people had these at the Mullahead plough match. I think they are a great Idea.
What condition are the shares in?
If the shares are warn it does not matter how much hard work you put in
to mking them shiney you will never plough successfully.
The underside of the share should not be flat. The curved section
produces suck" whick keeps the plough in the ground.
Luckily my shares where in good condition. - watch
A flat bottom no "suck" is produced and the plough
will lift out of the ground.
* see the Ploughinstruction book or Ferguson mouldboard Plough
Manual on how to sharpen theses items. If in too bad a state then they
should be replaced. have a look on eBay for a second hand one or old plough
you could take them off. I wouldn't know where to purchase these items
The following items should all have no rust on them and be shiney. I found
the best way to achieve this with a "flapper disk" on an angle
(order of importance)
1. Mouldboards - watch
3.Landsides - watch
2. Share - watch
Not as important but if you have got the time, the following
parts should also be shiney.
Whilst you have the angle grinding out make sure none of the
plough bolts stick up. They should also be ground flat/flush with the
mouldboards, shares and skimmers - watch
And the results of all that hard work - watch