Ferguson 2 Furrow General Purpose Plough

fig 1 parts of a ferguson 2 furrow plough.

The information here is supporting material or in addition to three ferguson publications.
I recommend the second of the two although I think the first is more commonly available. 3 is also useful to check plough setup and workout what kind of plough you have(digger, semi-digger, Gereral purpose).

1. The plough instruction book
2. Ferguson Mouldboard Plough Manual
3. Ferguson Mouldboard Plow Service Manual (available to download)
4. where you can download a copy of an American PLOW manual from 1955. Download manual hereHow to plough with a Ferguson 2 Furrow

Orignals paper can be found on eBay prepare to pay handsomely, or for a reprinted edition of manuals 1 &2 go to


There is always a difference between what the Ferguson Instruction book tells you, what is implied and what you actually do. The information here serves as an addition to the Ferguson plough manuals and should be seen as extra notes. Read the Ferguson Mouldboard Plough Manual first! The original manuals are really good, written at a time without spin and hype "I just want to know how it works in the least amount of words and pictures" I am aware that not everyone owns an original or copy of the Ferguson manual. Look at the links above as a star point.

Ploughing Theory

Before starting spread out the ploughed up soil at both headlands. This will result in a cleaner entry at the start of each furrow.

First Run
The most important thing with this run is to get it in a straight line. Follow the poles you have already put in the ground (3 max in competition) It is allowed that someone else can take these out for you.

Front wheels - straight
Back furrow in the ground only, Front furrow handle wound right up.
Width adjuster - not used
Depth 3" max.

Second Run
At the end of this run it will look as though you have a groove running up the middle of your plot with one side (Second Run) deeper than the other(First Run) Front wheels astride the furrow and left hand wheel up against the earth you have ploughed from First Run. Ploughing back to the right of the First furrow you have just cut. still with just the back furrow down

Depth 4" Max.

Third - Forth Run
Now you are putting in the first 2 visible furrows.

Front Wheel - ?
bases - Lower link adjustment -?
Depth 6"-7" ?

Fifth -Tenth Run
You now put in 6 more runs (3 in each direction) which makes 8 visible runs in total or 16 furrows in total, . The First and second runs get buried as part of the Third and Forth run. These runs should be at normal plough setup.

Front right wheel up against the furrow wall
Both bases to normal depth,
Width adjusted to be equal for front and back furrow (10")
Depth 6"-7"

Eleventh Run
Now you have to measure from your furrow wall to the plot next to you with a lower number. You need to measure lots of points along the row as although your furrow may be straight the person next to you may not.
Place little sticks in the ground to give a straight line to follow with your  front left wheel.
Both bases to normal depth.
Width adjusted to be equial for front and back furrow (10") - If after measuring the distance to the next plot generally at narrows or widens to can use the furrow width adjuster to narrow or widen your furrow to try and correct the problem. Depth 6"-7"

Twelth Run to 20" to go
It is ploughing as normal, monitoring the distance at the start, end and middle of the furrows are compared to each other. they should be parallel. Use the furrow width adjuster to alter the start or end distances between furrows.

Front Right Wheel in the furrow.
Both Bodies to normal depth Adjust width as needed
Depth 6"-7"

20" before the end

Front Left wheel now goes up against the furrow Slide the plough bodies to the left so one furrow out of two will be cut (Cut more rather than less)
Depth 3" 1/2 to 4" Max.

The Finish..........

Setup and Modifications.

For better Ploughing - Tractor & Plough Setup and modifications information.

Track width settings
the rear tyres should be the thinner 11.2"x28" width not 12.4"x28". Right hand rear wheel Rim set inside the centre disk on a smallest 48" centres.

Front Furrow Width Adjuster

The front furrow width adjuster is essential to control the width of the front furrow slice campared to the back. By moving the lever forward or back you make the slice thinner or thicher.  Fred made his own Furrow width adjuster as the Ferguson one is to harsh a gap between steps. "Take it down to 5mm tooth gap" Fred says

  • Plans to make my own
Cross shaft adjustment. Grind off the nobble on the underside of the plough. The plough can easily slide along the cross shaft if the U bolts are undone. Add a collar with retaining nut to prevent the plough from sliding on the cross shaft. This also has the ability to be able to position the plough at any point along the cross shaft. This is useful on the second to last pass when it would be of an advantage. (photo of the plough moved over to the left & normal position) Adjustable Toplink In some competitions an adjustable toplink is allowed in others it is strongly disapproved or banned Initially the toplink should be set to 25" A ferguson toplink is a catagory 1link (CAT 1) Add a ruler to the adjustable lower link lever By adding a ruler to the top section and a fixed marker to the moving lower part you will be able to see when the lever is wound down or up the current position. Wind the lower link down by 4-5 turnes once the front wheels have bumped out at the headland. Calipers / Dividers 20" Make a giant pair of calipers/ Dividers 20" to measure how many furrows there are left to get out of the unploughed land (picture) Fred And another couple of people had these at the Mullahead plough match. I think they are a great Idea.



P. Preparation.

P1. Shares
What condition are the shares in?
If the shares are warn it does not matter how much hard work you put in to mking them shiney you will never plough successfully.

Good condition.

The underside of the share should not be flat. The curved section produces suck" whick keeps the plough in the ground.

Luckily my shares where in good condition. - watch movie


Bad condition.

A flat bottom no "suck" is produced and the plough will lift out of the ground.

* see the Ploughinstruction book or Ferguson mouldboard Plough Manual on how to sharpen theses items. If in too bad a state then they should be replaced. have a look on eBay for a second hand one or old plough you could take them off. I wouldn't know where to purchase these items new!

P2. Shiney
The following items should all have no rust on them and be shiney. I found the best way to achieve this with a "flapper disk" on an angle grinder.

(order of importance)
1. Mouldboards - watch movie
3.Landsides - watch movie
2. Share - watch movie

Not as important but if you have got the time, the following parts should also be shiney.
4. Skimmers
5. Disks/Coulters

Whilst you have the angle grinding out make sure none of the plough bolts stick up. They should also be ground flat/flush with the mouldboards, shares and skimmers - watch movie

And the results of all that hard work - watch movie