September 22nd, 2016
***This is work in progress. the article will be updated as time allow***
When I bought my tractor I had no idea the mudguards fitted to it were not original. Once I did discover the unoriginality, I started to think about what would be the best way to make them original. The first Idea I had was to buy some old rotten wings remove the frame from the sheet metal and then re-skin them. I duly bought a set of old wings. I soon leant that at the top and two places at the bottom of each “Fender” (The Amaerican word for them) were riveted together through frame and skin and not bolted. The decision then, should I look for the correct size rivets, heat them up and once in place hammer them flat as the originals are. What if I couldn’t get any rivets would I have to make some? No, what if I could get hold of an original set of mudguards. But surely an original set in good condition would be very hard to find? The above thought process has taken about 10 years to evolve to the point today where I have recently purchased fantastic set of very original looking mudguards.
I would love to have known what tractor they can off. With the markings they look as though a cab may have been fitted over the top or something else attached to them. Some of the bolts were also loose.
I am now at the stage of adding the assorted brackets and fixings that where supplied as part of the Cyclops lighting set. So why on earth would I pay all that money for an original set of wings and then the first act is removing one of the prized rivets?
It is unfortunately necessary to attach the plough lamp bracket, as a bolt not a rivet must go through.
I covered the area with tape to protect it from damage. Then there was nothing other to do than get the angle grinder out and talk off the head.
With little damage I popped the rivet out. Worse was still to come. I now had to drill a new hole next to it to through the skin and frame for the second bolt. The hole was added all fine with no problems.
Next to attach the bracket that holds the number plate. This was an easier part to fit as the bolt holes are already there. It was just a matter of undoing the two existing original bolts without damaging them. Again mission accomplished and the configuration was starting to look good. You will notice in the next picture the light for the number plate. I have moved the light to a position above the number plate. please see my other post here as to why.
I found this great cheap source for the cable conduit. 5M is enough to get from the back of the tractor to the front. It also fits through the hole in the casting half way along the tractor. The wire (Red) then fits inside. When using a wire you need a minimum of a 10AMP rating to carry the current to the lights.
Attach plough lamp (first make hole larger) Make up cable from number plate light to cross over switch. Attach number plate secure cable to the number plate bracket in two places. strip down and paint – reassemble
- Attach mudguards
- Run cable along tractor
- Create and attach clips to hold the cable in place down the side of the tractor
The additional parts have been painted and everything reassembled with the larger cable protection (OD of about 7mm)
I think it looks a really professional job, maybe not completely original. Some of the clips are new and the cable protection is certainly up-spec’ed from the original. Still to do is fit the mudguards to the tractor run the wire down the right hand side of the gearbox and wire to the switch. I’ve tested the connection electrically and all is working so far.
Below is a test for suitability of the wire conduit that passes from the light switch behind the dashboard to the number plate bracket on the right rear mudguard.
between the tractor gearbox and back end the wire must pass through a hole in the castings.
I can’t help thinking the cable should be bigger and the wire thicker than 10Anp rated.
September 21st, 2016
The world has truly gone mad. I found this after checking the results of my online auction site tonight. This (probably A4ish) piece of paper made more money than a whole and complete Ferguson implement. If only I’d have lived closer to the seller!
September 10th, 2016
I told my son he should have asked for a Ferguson as he’s always underneath his John Deere tractor fixing one thing or another. Isn’t it said that children mimic the actions of their parents? My son must have it in his head that all I do is spend time underneath my Ferguson tractor fixing it! Still I could think of worse things to do in life to pass one’s time.
September 10th, 2016
I wandered into this subject “Chains & Linkages” a number of years ago when I purchased a top link with the original chain holding the linkage pin and linch pin to it (item 13 in the above picture). The chain was to fragile to use so I gathered together a suitable replacement.
Below is a link to my original articles.
It now remains for me to assemble the 8 links of chain, one end connected through the linch pin, the other into the “S”clip then attached to the hole in each bracket. I’m hoping the rivets go into the holes on the lower link arms without to much effort, chain facing backwards towards the implement. That will bring to a close another chapter in the restoration of my tractor.
Once fitted to the tractor I’ll post the pictures here. shouldn’t be to long a wait.
“And what” I hear you cry ” will you do with the other nine and a half feet of chain you have left?” Well the Front Brackets need chain for their pins and I’ll keep the rest just in case.
If you’d like to contact Robert (Bob) Sybrandy his email address is r_sybrandy at yahoo.com I found him very helpful and knowledgeable about this topic.
I’ve got the linkage assembly assembled and it looks like this. Seen here with a layer of primer on.
And yes, it does fit the holes on the tractor’s lower links. There is enough room for the rivets to go through the holes.
For my next decision, do I heat up the rivets before I hammer the heads down to keep them in place or do I try to hit them when cold? they will whatever way I attach them need painting once in place.
September 10th, 2016
The list of Ferguson accessories is growing. I can now add to the list a set of dual wheel spacers number A-TE-79 and more importantly original extension nuts that hold the first wheel on and provide the spacing to attach the second set of wheels to.
This now brings the list of Ferguson accessories to 14 (A-TE-59, A-TE-61, A-TE-66, A-TE-68, A-TE-70, A-TE-79, A-TE-87, A-TE-90, A-TE-92, A-TE-F93, A-TE-109A, A-TE-118, A-TE-,128 and A-TE-130).
I fear some on the list will be unobtainable by me, I refer to a set of Tyre Tracks number A-TE-113. The Tyre Tracks along with the Hours Meter A-TE-A93 and the Epicyclic reduction gearbox A-TE-118 are to my knowledge the only 3 accessories with their own dedicated manual. This may be due to there complexity in fitting to the tractor and the need for a greater explanation.
For a full list and to interpret what the numbers mean click on this link: Accessory list
September 10th, 2016
This is more a note to myself as a memory jogger.
I have purchased a right and left front Bracket of which I think is one of the Ferguson Accessories (although a few front bracket types were fitted to TE-20 tractors. (photo’s to follow)
The item E. from above is a bolt, .62″ in diameter x 3.75″ long And I need 4 of them to hold the Front Brackets on.
The track width on the front must be set to 52″ wide.
As a second reference The bracket was also fitted to the game flusher.
Also to note it has a pin through the lower hole attached with chain and linch pins.
Here the bolt is detailed as item 4 62FBH375B which means
62= 0.62 inches or 5/8″ thread diameter
F = Fine (UNF)
BH = Bolt Hex
375 = 3.75″ long
B = Parkerised
September 9th, 2016
This article is probably the most requested email I get. How can I get hold of the plans for a wing mounted number plate bracket?
I’ve been reluctant until now to post the plans as I thought I might have a go at making them again. I have to little time and other projects I’d rather be doing, so I thought it was about time to post the information.
The design consists of two pieces.
The first is simply a flat plate about A4 size. originally this would have had the number plate painted onto it (white letters on a black background)
The second shape is more complex and requires accurate folding. One of the resons for supplying the information for this in a flat form is that it can be folded either way offering a right handed (for UK road) and a left hand (for Europe) below you see the UK bracket folds accordingly.
DXF files to download
Download the files as DXF for cutting on a laser of Plasma machine: download the DXF files here
It is also my intension to produce a PDF drawing of the basic dimensions for people to print out and cut round.
PDF files to download
Download the files as PDF documents. please be aware the paper size is A2 and A3. if you have an A4 printer print sections out at full size 1:1 and then stick them together to produce a full size sheet to draw round. Happy cutting and sticking.
August 15th, 2016
Thanks to Fred for sharing this series of photography of the Mk I, II and III hitch attached to the underneath of the transmission housing of your TE-20 tractor.
In the picture above The MK. I hitch is on the left hand side, MK. II hitch in the middle and the MK. III on the right. The only thing in common with all three is the position of the bolt holes to attach them to the tractor.
The MkI on the left latches into place on the brackets under the tractor with the spring on top meant to held the hook in place. The hook I’m reliably told kept jumping out so it was changed to the MKII with a pin through the end of the hook holding it in place permanently. The MkI hitch also has two shafts sticking out either side with holes in to add linch pins. In the later hitches a separate pin was used to go through a hole half way up the hitch.
You can see above the full configuration of the MkI automation hitch. The t-bar (item 6) is also unique to the MkI hitch as the ends have a smaller diameter than the later MkII t-bar. It also has linch pin holders attached to the bars.
The MkII hook size is small the than the later MKIII hitch. I’m not sure when the MkIII hitch was introduced. The MkII is definitely a TE-20 era design but I’m not the MkIII was an FE-35/MF-35 product or was introduced before 1956?
August 12th, 2016
It was Ashover Show on Wednesday 10th August. A 26 mile drive for me across some of Derbyshire’s fine moorland roads, the heather is starting to turn purple.
Oh and my drive (26 miles there, 26 miles back) was of course on my Ferguson tractor in the glorious sunshine, why would you want to be anywhere else?
Far to many photo’s for me to post here so they are on my Flickr site. Two beautiful original examples a TEF and a Continental converted to TVO with an official Ferguson kit!
August 12th, 2016
I made a drawing for this clip back in 2011, so that I could get a friend to make one for me. I had a request for a drawing the other day and I couldn’t find it on the website. only a picture. so I’m adding the drawing new just in case anyone else wants to manufacture an authentic clip.
To download a PDF file of the image above click on the link below
Current Hot Topics
- 7/10 tenths of an Hour Tractor
- A Get in Touch Page
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- I wish I had
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- Painting Parts Process
- Restoration Overview
- Road Run 2013
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Ploughing:Plough - Ferguson
Plough - Match
Implements:10-AE-28, 2 Furrow Plough
A-LE-A20 Cordwood Saw
5A-EE-B20 Rear Mounted Mower
T-JE-A20 Transport Box
S9-KE-20, Spring Tine Cultivator - to be added
K-JA-30, 2 TON Trailer
A-TE-61 Hinged Seat and Feetrests
A-TE-66 Belt Pulley
A-TE-70 Tractor Jack
A-TE-78 Dual Wheel Kit
A-TE-87 Lighting Kit, Full
A-TE-A90 Pick Up Hitch - to be added
Ferguson Accessory List
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