Posts Tagged ‘TEF-20’
Posted on November 7th, 2013 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
Ferguson tractor parts are like buses……. You wait ages for one and then two come along at the same time.
I originally posted an article Tef 20 auxiliary diesel tank back in March 2012. I was looking for an original pipe that connects the main fuel tank of my TEF-20 to the smaller Auxiliary tank.
Well this week I found one on eBay and bought it.
I have seen a number of modern alternatives with flexible braiding. But it had to be an original one.
In the same article back in March 2012 I talked about how the Auxiliary tank on my TEF-20 had lots of pin size holes in it’s base and was unusable and it needed a new bottom. I haven’t know what to do as there are 3 ribs in the base and I wanted to replace the base with a part with three ribs in like the original.
We I have a replacement tank and It came with the pipe on as in the picture above.
I must thank Peter for giving me the tank. He has had it on a shelf in his garage for the past 20 odd years. Peter can’t remember why he took it off the TEF-20 he used to own. I hope its not because it leaks!
I met Peter at a company I have been doing some work for this week. We got chatting a month or so ago when I saw a computer screen with a picture of his MF35 on it. We got talking and he said he might have some old parts for a TE-20. I didn’t think about it as people always say something and then either don’t remember or can’t find the parts. Well not this time so Thanks again Peter.
Picture above of the TEF-20 Auxiliary tank Peter has given me.
I now have all the items I need to replace the horrible orange rubber pipe that connects the main fuel tank to the lift pump. Before I fit them though I have to rub down the Auxiliary tank, Test it for leaks and then paint it.
It’s going to be a fantastic day when The fuel system is all back to original running order I can’t wait.
Posted on September 4th, 2013 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
I need your help,
A previous owner of my tractor screwed an adapter into the inlet port in the top section of the TEF-20 lift pump.
Does anyone have the top section spare or an old lift pump that I could buy from them. It’s the one with the inlet and outlet at an angle see pictures above or below. The picture below shows the state the pump arrived in.
below (bottom right) you can see the adapter screwed in at a funny angle which has stripped the existing threads, what a shame. Then there has been attached an orange rubber hose between the main fuel tank and the lift pump bypassing the auxiliary tank. Thank goodness someone left all the Auxiliary tank and most of the pipework in place.
I really don’t want to have to buy a new replacement part as they just don’t look the same as the original.
I have ordered a repair kit for the lift pump from Sparex to cure a fuel leak problem with the diaphragm. The number of the kit is S.40567 “Fuel Pump Repair Kit”
A big thank you to Dan for sending me in the post the part of the lift pump I was after.
Next step is to fix the hole in the bottom of the Auxilliary tank so I can plumb the whole system back together.
Posted on March 9th, 2012 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
Tonight using the auxiliary diesel tank fitted to my TEF-20 became one step closer to happening. This evening I have purchased an original solid steel pipe that connects the auxiliary diesel tank to the lift pump.
From the photo above you can see the ugly orange gas pipe that was fitted when I bought the tractor that takes fuel from the main tank straight to the lift pump bypassing the Auxiliary tank altogether. The Auxiliary tank is missing from the picture but it should sit behind the main tank. With the tank removed you can see the round hole in the supporting framework where the feed from the main tank enters the Auxiliary tank.
Not all TEF-20′s have a lift pump. The early model 1951-(late 1953/early 1954) did not. When going up hill or down hill the smaller auxiliary tank fed the injector pump much better. The feed out of the bottom of the tank is comes from someway up inside the tank. This space allows the bottom of the tank to collect water and sludge and keep it out of the filters and pump. I was lucky the auxiliary tank was fitted when I purchased the tractor. They are commanding a good price. The one on my tractor is pitted with holes that need filling before i can use it again. No doubt the focus of a future post.
speaking of auxiliary tanks, was going to braze the base to fix the multitude of holes.However, when I dropped the fuel filters and saw what they contained, I figured I couldn’ t put it back into service without doing something about the junk inside and so for better or……..
Now to put it back together.!
Still to find
I still have one piece of pipework to find to complete the system it is item 8 from the list below.
TED have you got one?
Posted on February 26th, 2012 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
Since Christmas I have had a conversation with John Winnett through email and phone. John is an unusual Ferguson restored as I think he fell into restoring tractors as a bit of a side line. John usually focusses on Vintage Lorries but at some point in the past he has been asked by a client to restore a Ferguson. This has prompted him to restore a TEF-20 for himself and a great job he is making too. Ill health may stop John completing his quest, I hope not as I’d love to see the project completed. I look forward to visiting John in his workshop when time permits.
John has a problem with his restoration and it’s a problem I can’t solve as I’ve never seen the item in question before. Can you shed any light on his problem? The following pictures show the inspection cover in front of the injector pump on a TEF’s 20C engine. The plate has been replaced with a device to take a cable to a tachometer. Do you know anything about it or have you seen one before? John is trying to find a suitable cable and more information. What tractor was this type of device originally fitted to. what did the dial look like?
Posted on January 13th, 2012 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
I had an email request for the dimensions for a TEF-20 Starting Handle as someone wanted to make one. You can download a PDF from the link below or click on the picture if you like. The only thing to watch out for is the Left hand end that engages with the tractor. this must be made of a hardened material and is a complicated shape to manufacture. These starting handles do appear on eBay from time to time and I’d recommend picking one up from there.
|Hello Tim,Thank you for the dimensions of the Starting handle.
I made a few handles last year and I can tell you, I won’t do it any more. It is very complicated, especially the front bit and therefore to expensive. A friend of mine was able to machine the bits for me. The handle itself is cold bended, so there is no lost in the strength of the Material. The only thing missing is the bolt through the head, I saw no need for it, because we welded the things on. I enclose a few Pictures for your interest. Feel free to show them at your homepage.
I sell them in Germany and Jeff from Silverfox tractor spares does them in England.
Best Regards and a good and healthy 2012
Wow This is Fab. Well done. I know how hard it is to get stuff made. Yes I had enough problems modeling/drawing the end.
Posted on January 6th, 2012 by ploughmyfield. Filed under News.
Last year I posted some great pictures from a reader who was hoping to restore TEF-20
That particular deal fell through but undeterred Paul’s partner has come to the rescue and bought him for Christmas a TEF-20. Strange my wife given the chance would like to sell my tractor and all my Ferguson stuff. It’s amazing how things change.
So on with the new challenge for 2012.
|Hi TimHow are you?Hope you are keeping well and you had a lovely Christmas and Happy New Year.Just thought I would let you know that those 2 tractors I was hoping to aquire fell through.
However on the plus side, my partner has bought me a TEF 20 which is now currently in pieces in my barn! (photos attached)
You might also be interested in the head holder for a Ferguson – Designed and approved by Ferguson which I have never seen before but works very well in pressing the valves out that my friend ( Vintage Tractor restorer ) has acquired over the years of working with tractors!
From the photo’s this one looks a little easier to restore then your last Specimen.
I love those pictures of the Cylinder Head tool. I have seen it before in the Britool tools catalogue, who originally supplied most of the tools for Ferguson. The badge looks fab.
So are you having the tractor restored by someone or will it be you restoring it?
Posted on December 1st, 2011 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
I had a request from David Lory to send him some photo’s I took of Reekie tractors at the 2009 Newark Show. David would like to us these pictures in a article for his Ferguson Club magazine in America to which I have no objections.
He has also sent a couple of pictures of his Reekie conversion which I should imagine is a vary rare item in the USA. I’m a sucker for a nice Ferguson tractor picture especially when it’s a reekie.
These are several photos of my TEF-20 Reekie conversion. I hope to someday make a plough similar to the one that you have photos of. Thanks for your help in the past. I hope that you received the other email and are willing to let me use several photos of yours from the Newark 2009 show of the Reekie plough and tractor.”
Is it me nit picking or should the exhaust be white? But still it looks ten times better than my tractor.
Stephen, what do you think of that headlight original or not?
Posted on May 16th, 2011 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
A couple of weeks ago I had an email conversation from Paul Foster who wanted to know how much it would cost and how long it would take to restore a TEF-20 tractor he was getting from his brother in law. I politely answered that without at least some photography of the tractor it was difficult to say. Paul has obliged and goes on to say
“unfortunately I don’t have it in my possession at the moment as I’m waiting on my brother in law to drop it off.
He has 2 TE-F’s one with a “rare” banana loader (His wording) and will not part with that one as much as I tried to persuade him.
I can tell you tho the Tin work is all present and correct including the very expensive bonnet, The Dynamo, Starter, Gas, Petrol Tank, Dash are all there, However I did notice that the
Diesel line are not all there or broken. The Rad is there but has no fan (not sure of the terminology), No Cam belt – I did try and use the manual handle but its kept slipping off no matter how hard I tried to turn it over which
makes me think she is completely seized so new piston, rings etc etc will need to be replaced. Until I get it home then I really can’t tell you anymore about it.
PTO and Lifting arms are seized up, gearbox seems to link into gears but I can’t be 100% that’s working correctly without stipping it.
Is there a specific thing to look”
I hope Paul doesn’t mind me posting these pictures for all to see as the readers may come up with some helpful suggestions of there own.
Clicking on the pictures below will open them up bigger, for a closer look!
When I looked at the first picture I was horrified, no back wheel, looking very rusty in general. But as I went further down the pictures I felt more and more positive. The fact the bonnet has stayed on has helped the condition of the engine enormously. The first thing you have to do is get the cylinder head off and find out how stuck those pistons are? see the exhaust has been open to the rain with a short length pipe.
There is a lot of grey on the engine and not much on the back end. This isn’t t much of a problem as at the very worst a replacement back end can be sourced more easily than an engine. I’d try to get the tractors engine running before you commit to the time and expense of a full nut and bolt strip down.
On the positive side
there are still many wonderful items on the tractor. it looks like you have all the Ki-gass equipment (two tanks + pipework + pump) behind the main fuel tank.
Bonnet – looks OK
Number plate on the front is still readable – should mean an original V5 can be obtained.
Fuel tank – looks OK
Dynamo, starter and radiator all present (first things to go missing)
All the pipework for the fuel system looks present. yours is a pre 1954 model and did not have a lift pump fitted as mine does.
You have the Serial Number plate and you can make out the number on it (not shown in these pictures)
Then for the Extra’s
You have a trailer hitch under the back axle and a tipper pipe to the left of the PTO.
There is a toothed cog attached to the dynamo this would have originally connected to the hours meter. An item that could be sold (probably eBay) to help with costs.
Starting Handle – present
And the cost
Well thinking how much mine has cost so far I would say in the region of £2000 to get it to a useful, working painted, New wheels and tyres, mudguards, engine overhauled tractor. And time well as much as you want to throw at it really. it all depends on what condition you want it looking like when you’ve finished.
Posted on February 21st, 2011 by ploughmyfield. Filed under News.
It was my birthday on Saturday and so I was allowed a pass out for the day by my good lady wife to tinker with my tractor to my hearts content, unfortunatly the 3 inches of snow we awoke to on Saturday morning put pay to my plans.
I did manage to get out on Sunday for a couple of hours. The main aim of the day was 1. swap the wheels onto the 48inch centre settings to see if the tractor would go into the garage any easier and 2. investigate the brakes of my TEF-20 something I have to confess I haven’t ever touched since owning the tractor some 6 years ago.
Things all went well.
I initially used the Ferguson tractor Jack to remove the back wheels. unmelted snow from the day before is still visible on the ground.
I started by looking at the right hand brake. the one I thought I would have a problem with. I have seen Hydraulic oil dripping down the wheel centre when the tractor has been parked in the garage for a while. A sure sign that the seals on the trumpet housing are leaking. So I wasn’t expecting what I actually found.
Both brake drums where covered in oil. These are the later Floating Cam type of brakes.
On closer inspection something didn’t look right. there was a great chunk of gasket material hanging down inside the unit.
What a botch job by a previous owner.
There wasn’t much more I could do at this point. I didn’t have the time or space or parts to fix the problem. This is a job for a warm summers weekend I think. I did check the adjustment of the brakes and all was working fine.
So just enough time to take the other wheel off. A note here the modern trolley jack under the tractor was just in case and took no weight.
The other side was dry as a bone. I opened it up a little and all seemed well. I know this side of the tractor is stopping well.
So finally to swap the rims and centres around and put her back in the garage. After all that there is a little more room in the garage as a result. I can’t wait to get new 11.2 x 28″ types on the back once the rims have been painted in the summer.
So a shopping list for the summer.
A. Brake lining kit.
B. 2 x item 29. pinion Adjuster from the brake parts diagram both are a bit worn
C. In the instructions on refitting the brakes it says replace items 9, 7 & 27 the springs. Does anyone do this?
D. I’m hoping it is item 2 gasket housing outer from the rear axle housing part list that needs replacing and none of the shims as I understand they are expensive but also a set amount of shims is on each axle to allow the half shafts to float (not touch each other)
I already have the inner seals item 18 as my tractor is later than 325,000 when inner seals where added to trumpet housings. I am not going to replace the outer seals without first looking at the condition of the bearings.
Some black spray paint.
Posted on January 26th, 2011 by ploughmyfield. Filed under General.
|You have a very interesting web page here and may be able to offer some insight to a problem with one of my tef 20′s. I have recently acquired a tef with various problems such as sticky fuel rack, pulsating hydraulics and so on. However the one I haven’t got to the
bottom of yet is the clutch. When you push the pedal down the tractor sometimes keeps going. The clutch only decides to disengage when you are half way through the fence or have destroyed the washing line. I’m sure all will become apparent when I open it up but any insight to the cause of this problem would be appreciated.
John, Thanks for getting in touch.
The only thing you can do is open your tractor up by splitting it.
from a mechanical point of view I would say the clutch plate is sticking or the fingers are not disengaging the clutch far enough. I’ll throw it open to readers who will most certainly have a much better idea of what is the problem than I will. I’m sure once open the problem will be clear.
Great Reply here from René
This will for 99% sure be a oily plate sticking on. It will judder when put in reverse and moving off, there will be oil dripping from the clutch bell housing but only when engine is stopped. The culprit will be the gearbox inputshaft seal.
Doesn’t realy matter, the only way to find out is to split the thing. While you are in there check and replace the following :
- Pedal returnsprings. The pedal should “bounce” of the footrest several times if you depress the pedal and let it go in one blow. If not the springs are weak. Landrover series drum brake springs will fit in their place perfectly.
- clutch driven plate, should idealy have at least 1mm left above the face of the rivits. If oily clean with brake cleaner, heat it up (oven), clean again etc. until heating no longer makes oil ooze out. Or pop it in the dishwasher when your other half isn’t looking.
-Clutch cover for worn fingers and broken springs
-Gearbox input shaft seal. Also clear out the hole in the tube of the bearing carier. Fit new gasket of same thincknes. While shaft is out use it to align the clutch !
-Rear crank seal
-Reverse/start shift rail seal
-Coreplugs for the other rails
If in doubt replace, splitting it again to sort out the next problem usualy isn’t worth the savings.
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