Making Stuff

July 29th, 2015

I love to see what other people have been making. If I have some information that will help them complete their mission and I can help I will.

In one such case I was contacted some weeks ago by Paul Stevens. He was asking about the Ferguson crane page http://www.ploughmyfield.com/Crane.html and specifically some of the dimensions on one of the sketches. I was able to help. Paul said he had found part of an original crane on a scrap heap (a lucky man) and wanted to fabricate the rest himself. I’ve had one or two correspondence with Paul and He has sent me some great photos of the crane restoration. I thought they were worth sharing. And I’m so jealous of the fab looking workshop he has access to.

My name is Paul, I have been reading about some of your projects and one that caught my eye was the Ferguson Crane, some time ago I found the top sliding beam for a Fergie crane on a scrap yard, sometime later I found what looked like the bottom linkage but has been damaged beyond use.

And that’s where I started from your sketch I have made the main part for the top beam and have found material to make up the linkage part, but that’s where I run into problems, your sketches are not quite clear on the spacing’s, you show a dimension of 23″ or 28″ and the height of 12 1/2″ plus 2 1/2″. Can you confirm what these should be?

Its not a bad workshop, not mine but is on the farm were I work, I have worked in Steel fabrication most of my life”

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Hi Tim,

I have been busy and not much more to do on the crane, just the tube supports to cut and weld, also weld the lower support frame. I have attached some low res photos, once I have finished I will send you the hi-res photos and a write up. All the best Paul


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And here is how Paul created the main box section shapes for the lower part of the crane.


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And Paul gets involved in other modifications as requested for ferguson tractors.

“Hi Tim,

Here are a few photos of some of my projects.

Last year I made the sack lifter from photos I found on the internet.

I am also working on narrowing a Fergie by cutting 2″ per side out of the rear trumpets, half shafts and brake shafts. My dad has a problem get his Fergie in and out of the garden. but due to work on the farm it is waiting on the work bench for welding.

Plus I am also trying to complete the Fergie crane.

all the best



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5 minute Job!

July 29th, 2015

Nothing is ever a 5 minute Job!


Above is the pulley from A TEF-20. It’s the pulley from my TEF-20. I took it off the dynamo so that I could get the 3 veins on the back turned down to take a ring for the Karden arm of the tractor hours meter to rub against.

When I removed the pulley from the dynamo I wondered how it was ever holding in place and managing to not slip. The inside was completely hollowed out where the woodruff key had spun around inside removing all the material. So after drilling and boring the inside out, making a press fit bush, with a keyway, then testing I am now ready to start the job I originally wanted to complete.

It was at this point I realised I didn’t have any bar greater than 2″ diameter so I had to get hold of some. My usual supplier doesn’t do offcuts so I asked around and found the most amazing model engineering suppliers less than 2 miles from where I work.

Blackgates Engineering supply material in 1foot lengths and they had loads of offcuts of various sizes. I had a great chat with Phil on the counter about various projects. I will definitely be back.

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So I now have plenty of round bar to make things from!

MF 702 Progress III

July 29th, 2015

I think I might have go to the point where I’m actually adding material to the MF 702 rather than removing it!

I have finally cleared away enough material to add in the bottom round tube, which seems to be the “king Pin” piece to reassembly. I can now start welding on all the brackets and sporting steel work I need.

It was a surprisingly easy job to remove the old pieces of tub, to allow the new tub to slot in its place.





MF 702 Progress II

July 17th, 2015

So I’ve got back from the shot blasters the remaining original parts of the Transporter I purchased some time ago.

The frame that connects to the tractor has been my main focus. The shot blasting has revealed really bad corrosion in a couple of places leaving big holes in the round tub. Hopefully the holes are not in a structural locations. I’m going to put a new tube down the centre, weld it in place then fill it the outside holes.

I friend of mine Fred has been making some bushes up for me. The Cat. 1 linkage pins I bought didn’t fit correctly in the holes in the frame. Thanks very much Fred, maybe when I get to retirement I’ll be able to buy myself a lathe as well, then I can make stuff! I love these link pins because they are long enough to get the stabiliser bars on and a proper Ferguson nut on the back end.




Fred has also managed to knock out the pins in the bottom holes.

Although not painted I couldn’t resist assembling the top section of the frame with the newly acquired old stock spring. I really can’t wait until I start putting this together.


This next section if for reference more than anything. It shows the remaining metal after the box section has been shot blasted.






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Tractormeter 2

July 14th, 2015

This article is a follow up to the first part:


Hi Tim
I was surprised and a bit excited to see my photo’s  and email on your site so I thought I had better finish the story. As I understood my generator is larger in diameter than the later ones and this was the major cause of my  mounting problems.   I had to remove the spring mount and make a spring that worked outside the arm, also had to machine a flat on the body of the arm and reduce the diameter  of  the removable section of the arm if that all makes sense. The end result gives me 1mm clearance. Changing the length of the mounting bracket does not alter the clearance.

A large number of  grey fergie’s in Australia have upswept exhausts owing to fire requirements and in fact a lot were fitted with wire gauze spark arrestors, my tractor with the upswept forces the cable to be re-routed and will require different support brackets to be fabricated. Enclosed are some photo’s to show were I have had to mount the cable and others to show the ignition key and points adjusting tool that came with the tractor.  Your images and instruction manual copies have been invaluable and I must point  out that the carden arm as supplied by Agriline is set up for a TEA not a TEF .

A brief history of my tractor is that it was delivered by a local dealer in June 1950 to an address very close to where it is now housed. The Tractor Instruction Book and original promotional pamphlet with the hand written price of 599 pound 17 shillings and 6 pence Which included a tool bar and delivery on block and signed by the salesman came with it. The epicyclic gearbox must have been fitted at a later stage with the cost being in access of 400 pound back then. The motor was seized and the tractor in poor condition when I got it.  A photo showing the gearbox is also enclosed and I was fortunate enough to collect a Ferguson Rotary Hoe today, again  in very poor condition, that when repaired will complete the tractor.

This tractor was the first I collected and I now have 22 with 6 being grey fergies and 4 other different  Fergie models




Graham, Thanks for taking the time to write and I’m dead jealous of that Ferguson Reduction Gearbox!

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Hydraulic Tipper Pipe Bolt

July 8th, 2015

A couple of days ago I had an email in from a Mr S.Blair. Or Maybe is’t a MRS S.Blair wife of Tony! Who knew the former MP’s wife restores Ferguson tractors. anyway I digress. Here was the original question.

A few days ago I saw a piece on your website mentioning the tipping pipe outlet from the hydraulic pump.  I have recently removed the old brackets and hoses etc. from an unused MIL loader and now I have the dilemma of sourcing a blanking adaptor to plug the gap safely and securely.  I am convinced I saw your post mention that you had done the same, and possibly where you got it from and its size?  I think it said 1/2 BSF?

I cant seem to find the post on the website ever since and hope you wouldn’t mind helping me out with the details etc?


Well I’m pleased to say Yes I can Help. Below is a picture of said bolt, it vital statistics are, 1/2″ UNF thread, about 1/2″ of thread length. There is a shoulder at the bottom and the top has a 30 degree chamfer on it. I hope that helps? I think you could get away with the correct length bolt with a Dowty washer at the bottom. if you have a lathe and you could add the chamfer to the top even better.


810-334-M1 Spring-Latch

July 3rd, 2015

The Massey Ferguson part from the title above is the spring that holds the hook in place on the transporter. The part that came with my transporter is  past its best, as you can see from the picture.

It was good enough to make a drawing from though with accurate measurement. Doing some research on the internet I worked out it was a double ended compression spring.


I had started looking at companies that could make me a new one when a friend of mine said “have you tried Massey Ferguson to see if they still have one?” Bearing in mind they stopped producing the transporter in 1963 what are the chances of a 52 year old part just sitting on a shelf? So I contacted B&B Tractors at Dodworth, Barnsley, my local MF dealer, to see if they had or could get hold of an original part. John, who is very helpful and patient with me, had nothing. The part was obsolete with no offer of a replacement part and no one on the dealer network had one listed. So that was the end of that, only I started thinking B&B tractors haven’t sold MF parts very long (Relatively speaking) so maybe one of the other dealers who used to sell ferguson tractors would have the part. So I asked the question on the FoFH Forum “who was the oldest dealers in the country?” to which I got a reply of several companies. So I started with the first one on the list of replies and got the same answer from them as I had done at B&B, obsolete, no replacement number. I persisted and on the third phone call a very nice man called Cliff, looked in one place and then kept me on hold whilst he looked in another place, then he described to me the shape of the part in his hand. It matched the drawing I had in front of me. NO WAY, have I found one! he had a box of several. The price was right so I ordered one and a spare for good measure.


When word got out the part still existed and was available New Old Stock The phone must have gone crazy for Cliff, I think he wishes he had had a few boxes as I think he could have sold the half a dozen he had several times over. So within an hour of asking the question who was the oldest dealer I had secured a 52 year old brand new replacement part. I had the biggest grin on my face for at least a day and even now I can’t believe it. It’s not the cost which is minimal but the thrill of the chase I think I like, maybe the fact it didn’t cost the earth means more, after all if money was no object I could have had a company make me one (about £180 setup cost for a new one, if you want to know) I think above highlights one of the reasons I lice collecting ferguson stuff. Its the excitement of finding a gem, an unusual tractor or implement, something original for not much money or the manual you’ve been after. I think a lot of collecting hobbies are like this. For me it just happens to be Ferguson collecting. as it says at the top of the web page “passionate about all things Ferguson” And maybe if I can’t get hold of an original I’ll do a good job of restoring a damaged one to as good as new with original materials, sizes and techniques.


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A-TE-93 Information still needed

June 28th, 2015

I’m still looking for information and dimensions for some of the A-TE-F93 parts.

The clips are for the TEF-20, the one on the left is under the dashboard, the one on the right connects at the end of the ait cleaner.

Diameter of the hole on the right is 1/4″



I think the dimension X is 4″



Once I’ve got the dimensions for the spring I will still need to get one made!



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Tractormeter A-TE-93

June 28th, 2015

I’ve had several communcations from Graham who has bought the components needed to make up a tractor hours meter from Agriline. After the initial problems he had, the part numbers had been removed from the catalogue and know one knowing what ha was talking about, the problems where sorted and some shiny new parts arrived. He couldn’t order the reproduction dial as Agriline still aren’t making one!

Upon arrival Graham had some questions about the position of the grease nipple on the carden arm (the part that connects to the dynamo) The Agriline product’s nipple is on the side for a TEF-20 and not a TEA-20.

From your description below Graham the only thing I can think is to make the arm that sticks out from the dynamo longer, that would give a different angle for the carden arm.
Hi Tim

I have made the mount for the tractormeter drive and turned up a pulley for the front of the generator drive and then encountered a clearance problem necessitating grinding the disused tension spring casting away. The unit does not have any  clearance and does not  work. I have sent some photo’s of work to date and will keep you posted. The generator on my tractor is 116mm dia. and possibly larger than later ones and a check of generator to carden arm centres indicates the same measurement as the distance between centres of the driven pulleys. It appears that the repro. carden arm is larger in dia. than an original but not having ever seen one I can’t be sure.






Graham did the spring come with the kit or have you fabricated it?

TEF-20 Starting problem

June 28th, 2015

I’ve had an email from a reader Ken from Co Louth, who has rebuilt his TEF-20 but now it’s rebuilt he can’t get it started.

This seems to me to be one of those problems that if you were standing in front of the tractor it would be twice as easy to solve. As Ken has written below it seems as though it should work. does anyone have any suggestions?



Hi Tim, I was hoping that you can give me a few suggestion on how to get my TEF started following a total overhaul.
The engine had a full overhaul and is now back on the tractor, but after fitting the new battery, overhauled starter, new wiring harness and the overhauled diesel injector pimp and injectors, I am struggling to get it to start.
The sequence of events are as follows:
Filled the diesel circuit, and bled the diesel filters, injector pump, and lines at the injectors. I tried starting using the normal method, no luck, tried using the aid of overfuel button, decompression lever, Ki-gass (with kerosene) and heater plug to aid starting, no luck. tried using a blow torch, and a hot air gun at the air intake.  Tried starting with the oil bowl off the air intake to improve air supply.  tried with throttle half open, and fully open,  but no luck.
what I have checked and what happened: 
Injector pump and injectors professionally reconditioned and bench tested, Fitted injectors facing out and connected them so that I can see that they were working (diesel squirting maybe 4 foot from them, is that normal or should they atomise?)
Diesel system connected up normally and fully bled.
I have set the diesel spit timing at 32 Deg BTDC twice (cylinder fuel supply just cut off on the correct compression cycle) and am happy that its correct.
so the injector pump timing to the fly wheel is correct, the flywheel is doweled to the crank shaft, so timing to crankshaft is ok.  I have not taken the cover off the timing chain to check all timing marks as the tractor is fully assembled again and I am told they have been set correctly after the rebuild by the engine shop. When I had the injector pump off, I removed the inspection cover to look at the connecting rods to the rockers.  At 30 deg BTDC (with the 1/4″ punch in the flywheel) the pressure is off both cylinder 1 rocker rod (but I am not sure at what point they close).
What happens when trying to start:
When turning the engine over on the starter I am getting some smoke from the exhaust manifold.
When moving the decompression lever down the engine spins slightly faster, and when moving the decompression lever into normal position, the engine becomes more laboured.
When injecting a couple of pumps of ki-gass, the engine gets much smokier and starts to spin faster (like its going to start).  However, when spinning faster with the kerosene, you can hear a knocking sound from the engine, like its trying to spin faster than allowed or trying to overtake the starter!
When the kerosene is gone, the engine slows back down and reverts back to a small amount of smoke.
When using the Kerosene in the ki-gass, there are wet black spots of oil being exhausted from the manifold (I don’t think this happens when just using diesel).
so, after all that, if you see anything obviously wrong with something I have said, or if you could think of anything could try, please reply.  feel free to put this questionon your web page if you think people might fine it useful / interesting.
I look forward to hearing from you,  thanks Tim

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