tim@ploughmyfield.co.uk

Review – Museum of Rural Life Scotland

June 11th, 2009


Visit to:  
Museum of Rural Life Scotland, Kittochside, East Kilbride, Scotland G76 9HR
Date: 9th May 2009
Reviewed By: John Morris

 Here is my report on the museum, definatly worth a visit if you are in the area, you can editor publish which bits or my photos as you like.The museum is listed  on the FOFH web site

The museum is run by the Scotish National Trust and is Free to all trust
members. When you first arrive you see the implements outside,

and then the T20 in the chidrens play area

 bit of a shame really.The main Farm Buildings are about half a mile away up the hill but trailor ride lifts are avaiable. These are a 1950s farm house and buildings interesting in their own right.In the yard was a working T20

and round the back the main working tractors a MF65 and a MF35

Inside the museum building itself there was an imacculate Ferguson Brown and a MF Combine.

 The main area of tractors were crammed in tightly and difficult to photograph. These included a Ford Ferguson T20 and a plough as well as locally made Nuffields and other makes.Finally it has the famous Glasgow Tractor.

John Morris



Engine idling returned to normal

June 7th, 2009


I have found the problem that made the tractor tick over at a too higher speed. Whilst trying to adjust the tick over stop position I noticed which ever way I turned the screw it had no effect on the throttle lever on the dash. And the reason for this, the screw was never reached by the link rod from the dash as it was to short.

You can clearly see in circle 1 that the lever does not touch the stop.

 first tried to adjust linkage 3 but there is new screw to adjust top or bottom. So then I gave item 2 four turns and now when moving the throttle it reaches the stop.

I thought this one was going to run and run. I still haven’t fired the tractor up to test it as it was late again by the time I’d finish and I don’t think the neighbours would approve of the noise so late.



Spill Timing Sorted

June 5th, 2009


Last friday I spent the evening setting the spill timing on the tractor. I thought I’d have to dismantle most of it to do this. But thanks to a question asked on the FoFH Forum I had a fantastic reply from Ian Moignard and Raoul le M which after checking with them I have been allowed to reproduce here for you all to enjoy. It has taken some time to put this answer together and I thank Ian and Raoul.

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/spill-timing-te-f20/

It was late last friday night when I’d finished setting the spill timing so I didn’t get chance to test it until Saturday morning. It’s running 200% better with no black smoke.

The tick over speed is still high the spill timing has not sorted this out. One thing that was mentioned was a faulty Diaphragm. So that was the next thing I checked in the week.

After checking (well I think I checked it correctly as the Ferguson Repair Manual isn’t clear) The Diaphragm is OK with no holes, even a pin hole in the Diaphragm can affect the tick over speed. So the next thing is setting the tick over speed manually at the air intake point.

I’ll keep you posted but this one could run and run. I might have got to the bottom of it by christmas!



Roy – I have a new Tractor!

June 1st, 2009


Just after his 70th birthday I think my friend Roy is having a mid life crisis!
He’s bought himself a Ferguson TE-D20 tractor. (TED 219332) born 22/09/1951.
Roy’s report on his purchase.

It was originally registered  in Holland Lincs, has been in Lincolnshire all its life so far.It arrived on the back of a container lorry visible in one of the pictures, I have started it but it runs rough although no knocks. The  engine oil was  as thin as water due to parafin mix   with the oil at no pressure  so popped fresh oil in and the  oil pressure was up. I have ordered parts, air cleaner rubbers,
points,
ign switch,
ign light,
id plate (for the top of steering column)
oil filter,  it breaths through the dash grill   so that rubber is shaped,
bought spark plugs.
 
I have parked it   in the garage where it will remain over the summer. The tractor had been stored some years and is oily and dirty,   I have dismantled  the air filter etc  and stripped the paint off and will rust proof and paint in a under coat   so that i have started the process  of restoration, Next week I will fit the parts to get it running better.  
 
There was an old V5 DOC  with the tractor so I have written to the DVLA hoping for the reg number  it is showing as still allocated to a ferguson on the internet .
 
Regards Roy.  



Spill Timing – Prepare

May 18th, 2009


We are all eagerly waiting for the answer to your timing problem but there are other things in life as well as Ferguson items, guess we will have to wait a bit longer. I too am traveling to Scotland this weekend but not to do any running.I am planing to stop off at the Heritage Museum in East Kilbride looks well worth a visit.   

I was thinking if you purchase, or posibly make, one of those timing discs you will be able to set it up from the 30deg hole in the fly wheel  and do all the settings from that point, although I quess you will need at least the radiator taken off. Did you do the fine adjustment of the camshaft using the slotted holes in the gear wheel? Can you please do some pictures of the venier pump adjustment when you do it please?
John Morris 

Hi John,
I’m glad you like the site.
Please send a report and photo’s of the Heritage museum. I’m sure lots of others would be interested in your view.

Yes I will be making a timing disc. I have access to a (CAD)Computer Aided design package. I’ll be adding the disc as a download for you all to make your own. it’s a bit like blue peter here!

I will be do documenting everything I can john it’s an essential part of the website.

 

To Do

  • Make template for timing (30BTDC (hole in flywheel) 32BTDC spill timing point, 0TDC (just as a check for the valve timing)
  • Ask Holland brand workshops if they have a number one port swan neck I can borrow for the pump.
  • find a hexagon spanner to undo the nuts on the front of the pump.
  • Read the Manual agin and again.
  • Find some time when I can do it.



Inspiration

May 17th, 2009


I hope you are all well,
The tractor has been the last thing on my mind just lately. We’ve had our son’s first birthday, I’ve been to Munich on business and next week I’m off to the Scottish island of Jura to run up and down the hills for 14 miles.

I don’t know when I am going to schedule some time to look at the timing, which still seems very daunting to me.

Funny I never thought of myself as being an inspiration to anyone so this email was a nice surprise. I’ve had this great email from Geoff who also donated £10 which will keep the website up and running for a month for everyone to enjoy. Thanks Geoff.

I was starting to well up by the end of your email. Then I got to the part about wind whistling through my hair. Geoff, I don’t have any hair! not to worry, I’ve never had any hair! Well once upon a time I must have. I’m only joking Geoff, Its nice to see all my friends loosing there hair now as well and getting really paranoid about it. I do like to tease them. Anyway back onto the subject of tractors, here is Geoff’s letter

Tim

Your site has been an inspiration and true motivator for me for the last
twelve months. I have a TEF of which at least the steering column is
1953. My engine is good, at least it starts, has good pressure and
smokes marginally less than the driver. The back end was less good, the
hydraulics at there on pace, and to their own agenda and the brakes have
long since lost any intention of doing anything useful. As my land is
fairly hilly, this has hugely restricted the usefulness of the tractor.

Hence I have started at the other end to you. The backend is in pieces
and being subjected to the shotblaster and/or wire brush on a piece by
piece basis. I did the wheels first as I needed a quick fillip; they
make a huge difference to how a rusty tractor looks and goes some way to
distracting the wife’s glance away from the hole in the bank balance
caused by this impulse buy.

I hope to have her running again by mid summer so that I can go some way
to doing much of the work I promised on the day that it turned up on the
back of a trailer.

I donated a tenner which woefully inadequate for the services that you
have provided: your site has cheered me, and provided greater solace,
than the three pints that this sum could otherwise have purchased.

Don’t get despondent because of your timing issue. If you know that
your engine is in excellent condition, and it looks fantastic too, then
some relatively ‘minor’ tweaking is a small price to pay for the pride
and general feeling of well being that you have every right to feel when
flying down the road in fourth gear with the wind in your hair and the
gentle burple of your engine as a glorious soundtrack.

All the best

Geoff

Geoff, I took the pump out of my tractor to drain the green sludge out of it (green sludge was one hydraulic fluid) With the pump cleaned and refitted and new hydraulic fluid it’s been great ever since.



Spill Timing

May 5th, 2009


I took the tractor out for a first proper run.
I was disappointed. It isn’t running correctly, by that I mean after you have started the tractor it is reving very highly and I am unable to get it to tick over. There is a lack of power as I move the throttle lever down whilst driving along. The first thought was to change the length of the control rod that come from the throttle on the dashboard to the pump. This didn’t work and even screwing in the rod to its shortest position did not make the tractor tick over any slower.
At this point I reached for help in the form of a question to the FoFH Forum. (If you do any tinkering with your ferguson tractor and you’re not a member , you should be!)
The feedback I got all points to the spill timing as the point to start. Another problem the tractor is having is the black soot or smoke from the exhaust. Again black smoke represents a timing issue.
This seemed the most comprehensive list from a user called Jón

Idling speed adjustment.
( DO NOT rotate fuel pump for that)
The idling speed is controlled by the horizontal screw in the venturi body on the intake manifold .(the piece on which the rubber hose from the air filter is attached)
Warm up engine, fully close throttle ,slacken off the lock nut of the idling speed adjuster ,on the venturi body and with the throttle fully closed adjust screw until engine speed is between 440-495 r.p.m.(P.T.O. 160–180 r.p.m)Thighten lock nut.
If you rotate the pump to adjust idle you will change the spill timing which is critical to the exact degree given in the manual.
Here are two points regarding the spill timing .There are two positions depending on engine serial number if pre 109124 it is 32° BTDC if post 109124 it is 26° BTDC
Here are the possible causes for black smoke
1) Air supply restricted— Check air filter, guess you did that
2) Excessive fuel injected max. fuel stop out of adjustment or pump incorrectly calibrated. (this means to take the pump to certified shop, definitely not DIY job ) guess you had the pump served ?
3) Injectors not functioning correctly — Guess you had them served for a rebuild.
4) Spill timing incorrect, Spill timing is critical but you can carry it out if you have the service manual available. After that NO rotation of pump to correct for errors of any kind, or engine running problems.
5) Poor compression –not likely on a new rebuild !
6) Fuel syphoning from Kigass tank, that´s possible. I had this problem, –reason: leaking check valves in the Kigass pump.
You can probably eliminate most of these causes on your rebuilt engine except may be the spill timing and Kigass. Was that done by the manual ? which it definitely should be.
And congratulations with your “new” engine, certainly hope you get rid of the “bugs”
Cheers

Jón

I’m overwhelmed by the method to set the timing. I didn’t pay that much attention to this when rebuilding so I don’t think I’ve done it correctly as well as the fact I have to remove the front axle, remove the timing cover and the rocker cover.
I find the Ferguson User Manual confusing to follow to set the spill timing. Again I asked on the forum and had this very detailed response from René.

Hello Tim,

The re-timing is possible without removing major parts but very tough to do
without the proper tool. It can also mean you end up with the pump on a funny angle.

I made the tool required for a “vernier coupling” as it’s called in the manual. It’s the
splined inside as well as outside “bush” that’s in the pump drive. I skimmed of the outside
splines in my lathe and welded a piece of pipe and a T-bar on to it. Now I can turn the
pump drive as it is shown in the manual. Without this you need to turn the entire engine
to perform the “spill cut off” timing on the pump. If you want to take a crack at doing that :

For 32º BTCD timing the pump must be rotated on it’s flange edge 0.863 mm or .034″
I therefore suggest you set the pump at appropriate angle that allows fitting all pipes easily
and then take those off. Mark the pump flange and engine distribution case. Then rotate
the pump the required amount anti-clockwise (from drivers seat). Next set up a the swan
necked pipe and do the spill timing. Leave the setup in place. With the pump set at this
position remove the “vernier” coupling and rotate the engine two revolutions to place the
1/4 bar in the timing hole in the flywheel. Make sure that the pump does not rotate while
doing this. Then insert the “vernier” coupling. It is splined with one spline difference
between inside and outside so a position will need to be found that allows inserting it by
rotating the coupling a spline at a time. With the coupling in remove the 1/4″ bar and
rotate the engine two revolutions. As you approach the position at which the 1/4″ bar can be re-inserted check the spill timing. It should be exactly on the point you can insert the bar.
If not start again. If ok you rotate the pump until the marks made earlier are in line to set
it for 32º.

Regards,

René.

Now I’m sure if someone showed me how to do this it would be really easy, but to follow the instructions I just can’t imagine it and I think that’s half the battle. It just seems really complicated. Can someone use the pipe from injector 1 as the “swan neck” pipe?

Full FoFH Tick Over Forum transcript here

Read Geoff’s Spill Timing article here lots of images but could do with more. It seems easier to follow with pictures.
http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2008/9/10/3876652.html



Mike Email No3 – Assorted Gubbins

April 27th, 2009


As I alluded in my last e-mail I am having trouble with my workshop computer, now it will not boot past, well, the bit it won’t boot passed. 

Normally this wouldn’t trouble me much as, I would call for my prospective son-in-law, who is a systems engineer ( not a computer expert, he knows what he is doing), or my son, (he’s a blacksmith).  This weekend, however, my children and amours are all over the country and I am left stuffed. All my writings, whilst away, are done on an ancient Psion (pison) and it will only talk to my workshop computer.  (RS232 via a 9 way D type).

Normal procedures are (1) write the stuff, usually in bed, (2) squirt files from pison to w/s computer, (3) massage text on w/s comp, (4) transfer data to laptop on flash drive, for final polish, (5) add pictures from l/t, (6) send, (7) Hurrah!

Text now stuck somewhere on w/s computer. 

Cumbersome, Oh yes, but hey, if I wanted “slick” I wouldn’t be buggering around with a fifty odd year old tractor and plough. It’s a system that is becoming of one of a certain age, one who prefers an old straw hat to the to the new panama. The best suite is the pair of overalls freshly washed and ironed.

So your up and running. Good isn’t it, there are few sweater sounds than those coughs and grunts as she catches after major surgery. An then you spend the next few days looking for signs of water and oil hemorrhaging. In my experience it will take a few hours on the clock before the buttocks truly relax whilst out on the road!  Have you kept a time diary? Did you itemise every penny?

When the files are liberated I will send you the lot and probably more. In the mean time, these pictures will suffice, they are of some of the other ploughs in my life.

You might question the hazard tape on the 2 furrow. It helps my wife see it, she could trip over standard gauge steam loco. That picture illustrates two projects that will run concurrently.

Regards Mike.

Email No4 (arrived some time after the 3rd)

Sorry Tim, I get a bit distracted these days, my mind tends to drift towards the fact that I used to have a pension. Now I  spend a lot of time working out the best busking spots for a bloke with an old straw hat with a concertina.

I found some more ploughs. These two are scotch swing ploughs, there were another ten around the croft, all over ten years old. Some had Mot’s so have got to be worth Ooh two grand part ex against a new Kia Sorento.

I have passed crofts where ploughs have been lined up to form fences!  A chap I know up there has a field full of horse drawn finger mowers. 

Regards Mike

Thanks again mike,
Yes I’ve been in the garage stopping the leaks from the fuel and oil pipes. I think I’ve got it sorted now.
I love that last picture of the ploughs outside the croft. Very staged but very aesthetic.
I hope you get the computer working. I bought a Machintosh (Mac) computer and a time capsule backup. I can go back over a year to find a file. It’s also great for web edition and movie editing.
I notice your fergie plough in the first picture is a Sherman (Ford Ferguson) plough as it has the cast top section that connects to the top link. I later models this was 4 bent pieces of metal.



First Run

April 27th, 2009


With the engine working the next step was to take the tractor out. I managed onto the front lawn and back. See the movie here of me putting the tractor away.


Whilst out on the front lawn I took some photos of the assembled tractor. I think it looks great. I can now notice even more all the items that have not been painted they look so scruffy! So the next job is to have a go at the rest of the tractor starting with the back wheels.

Mike’s email( Assorted Gubbins) made me chuckle especially the part about fixing all the little faulty. I have a leak from the out port of the fuel lift pump (fixed with PTFE tape). The bleed screw is also leaking diesel from the seal( I think I have stripped the thread on the alloy body).

The idle speed of the engine is also faster than I think it should be. The remerdy for this is to shorten the control linkage between pump and throttle. I have a lot of black smoke or soot coming out of the exhaust. This could be a timing issue or burning off of the oil used to lubricate everything whilst the tractor was being assembled. I am going to leave it to see if it reduces and maybe look at setting the spill timing again. A diferent method must now be used to do this as the engine is now a lot more assembled than the last time I set the timing.

I haven’t kept a complete record of all the costs involved in the rebuild. But I have been asked to put together some accounts for the work so I will do my best. I have no idea of the number of hours it’s taken nor would I be able to guess. I also want to put together a help document for anyone thinking of restoring there tractor.



Yes It Works!

April 24th, 2009


I just want to say a big thank you to everyone who was helped with this engine restoration, to Fred an Roy for there time, to you lot for the support emails. The biggest thank you goes to my wife for putting up with me disappearing into the garage at every opportunity. 

 

Oh and the reason the tractor stops after 4:30 is I forgot to turn the fuel tap on!

Now it’s working it’s all a bit of an anti climax! What will I do now? All those jobs around the house that I haven’t done for the past 6 months. Now it’s time to get out and use it. (On light duties for 20 hours, the I need to reset the tappets.)



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