ploughmyfield.com

Ploughmyfield is in the news.
Have you got your spring 2009 copy of Classic Massey yet? Mine arrived through the letterbox this morning.

On page 42 as part of the article ” Our Tractors” Scott Lambert mentions this website. I sold him one of my excellent number plate brackets some time ago to complete the restoration of his TE-D20 tractor. Scott wanted to promote the site as he feels the standard of the reproduction number plate bracket should be talked about.  Thanks Scott.

Loads of other great articles in the spring edition including buyers tips for the TE-D20. Roy are you reading this now there is no excuse to delay the buying of your very own TE-20 as the guide gives you all the info on how to find the right tractor.

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Whilst down in Derby at my office there I saw a sign for shot blasting. The next time I went down I took the Exhaust manifold with me. It is very rusted and I thought it would take ages with the brush on the angle grinder to get down to bare metal. 

Before

The hight temperature paint needs to stick to the bare metal.

So I found a person who loves his job. Unfortunately I forgot to ask the gentleman’s name. He says its great doing the sandblasting as he can escape into his own little world with his ventilated helmet  and a high powered light to see the work by.  I’m sure I’ll be back to get some more stuff done, like the back wheels as they where very reasonable. The room looked big enough to put a hole tractor in.

Unknown

he 

Company Name

The results speak for themselves and the part looks fantastic.

After

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I sold a number plate bracket to a customer in Belgium.

He was very pleased with it and wondered if I had made any to go on the left hand wing rather than the right as he has lots more tractors. It is also illegal to drive with one on the right and not the left whilst driving on the right of the road. I explained that I’d just had a batch made and it might be some time before I got some more made and had the chance to enquire about getting them folded to suit the left hand wing. It will be cheaper if I got a batch done than a one off.

Along with the enquiry Ivan sent some pictures of his restoration. I puts my efforts to shame. I thought you all might like to look how a restoration should look.

I love the space he has in his workshop and the number plate looks great.

The casting on the back is from the howard rotavator which he is also restoring (nut and bolt)

Does anyone have information about the Lucas lighting kit that was made for the european market? I saw a model recently with the number plate on the left It looked funny. But then again the right one looks funny to people in europe.

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I’ve stripped the fuel filters, removed old paint, rubbed them own then sprayed with undercoat and assembled back on the tractor.

They look fab. helped by the dramatic ligthing in this photo I think.

The water pump has also been stripped and primed ready for assembly back on the tractor.

I had to use the nitro mors paint stripper on this one as it wouldn’t come off. I don’t mind using paint stripper. in most cases it’s not needed and I don’t like to use it as its expensive. 

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Back in May last year I bought a starting handle for a TEF-20 engine. I thought it would come in handy for the engine rebuild. I could use it to turn the engine over for realigning the clutch, moving the pistons in the sleeves etc.

When I put the starting handle in the bonnet hole it didn’t go all the way in. On closer inspection the starter wasn’t in line with the dog on the front of the engine.

So the strip down of the engine has been an ideal time to investigate. On investigation I found the pin at fault. I think this is due to the missing bolt. Item 25 from above. I think on the diesel model it is different though and the bolt comes through from the back. with the washer and nut on the front.

With this much wear there is no way it was going to line up. All down to a missing bolt.

Once apart I inspected the other parts. The worst item was the frame itself. The pin is supported at the front and back. The front is quite thick, about 1″, but at the back it is 1/4″ or about 6mm. The hole had become oval. It seems like a bit of a design flaw by Mr Ferguson’s design team (the only one I’ve found) .

So replacing the pin was easy as they are available from most suppliers. I also replaced the bush item 20 which goes in item 21. How to fix the oval frame though.  The bush for the MF35 is different and made of steel. So I bought one of those thinking I could use it, somehow!

After thinking about it I came up with the idea of enlarging the hole in the back and using the bush (cut down) in the hole to take the weight of the axle and remain aligned to the front bush.

A big thank you at this point to Roy for enlarging the hole and cutting the pi down. It’s taken him over 4 hours. I asked him to take a look at this as I don’t want to loose focus from the engine. Thanks Roy.

His results are fantastic. He has also replaced the bush in the axle. It looks great.

The frame is now with another friend who is going to weld it for me as I don’t have a welding kit. Once back it’s going to take some cleaning up before it can go back on the tractor.

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I got asked by Steve how I paint my parts and how I get them ready for painting.

I’ve added a page as I think this is a subject that will interest a lot of people.

This is still a work in progress with some picture to add. Please add your comments at the bottom of the Painting Parts Process page and let me know how you do it. 

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/painting-parts-process/

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I’ve not got much to write as it’s late. I have another video of the work I’ve been doing and some pictures.
Steve thanks for your comments on yesterdays post. I can answer your question fully tomorrow as it’s to late now.

Right Side of Engine

Thermostat Housing

Air Intake Assembled

Inlet In place

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My wife and son have gone visiting for the weekend so I’ve got the whole weekend in the garage. I’ve taken this movie of the engine at the start of the saturday. I’ll take another one on sunday night when I’ve finished.

I started work on the right hand side of the engine. With Roys help I finished most of this side of the engine.

Roy Come to help

Roy Cleaned up the injectors and the pump whilst I cleaned the tubes connecting them all.

Cleaning the Injector Pump

4 Injectors Fitted

Pipes

Before fitting the injectors and pump I added the oil feed pipe to the oil pressure guage.

Oil pipe

After cleaning the pump it was fitted to the tractor.

Pump Fitted

At the end of the day the right hand side of the engine is nearly complete.

End of day 1

More to come tomorrow.

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This is a subject that has had a lot of feedback (comments) on this site so I thought after getting an email from the person who skillfully managed to get it running some time ago you might like to know what was needed to get it running.

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Festival Of Britain Guide Cover

Don’t ask me why but I bought this guide to the festival of britain in 1951. I think I was drawn to the striking design of the cover.  One of the areas covered by the many exhibits was “The Country” which had a heavy focus on mechanisation. There is a picture of a Ferguson tractor pulling a 3 Ton trailer. and a great adver for the Ferguson system.

Ferguson Advertisement 1951

Layout of the "The Country" exhibition

Did anyone go to the exhibition. Can anyone remember what it looked like or have photo’s of the country at all. I’m going to do a bit more digging to see if I can find out what it looked like.

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I’ve used an acid etch primer on the block a first coat that will stick. Its not cheap but I’ve been impressed with the results from the aluminium parts. I masked up all the remaining holes. I ran out of paint so had to get another can. I also bought a high temperature paint for the exhaust manifold. It’s been in the tank of degreasing solution for about a week. I looked at it today and most of the carbon on the inside has broken down. Normally this is removed with a rotary wire brush with lots of noise and dust. The guys at the engine remanufacturing shop in Leeds where I took the crank and block to be ground recommended this method as the best way of removing carbon build up.

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I’ve been round to see a friends Tractor. It hasn’t run for a year or so and the green moss is staring to grow on it. Mike says he had it running a couple of years ago.

Mikes Tractor

It has the plate TE-A130359 so originally it was a straight petrol. I originally went to look at the tractor several years ago as it has most of the lighting kit. I have been researching the plough lamp bracket as I’d like to go back into production with a repro version. Mikes tractor still has the bracket, but not the rear number plate bracket.

Cyclops Light and one side light

Bonnet Up

I keep on trying to get Mike to sell me the one side light he does have. The other has been broken off at some point. Mike still accuses me of taking it. 

As I started to look round the tractor I found it more and more interesting. It has at some point been converted to TVO I think. why do I think this. Well there seem to be a lot of shims under the head gasket. About 5mm worth. This would make the bore 85mm instead of 80mm.

Interesting Engine

It looks as though it has the remains of the back of the manifold shield you normally see on a TE-D. I don’t know what a TE-A or TE-D exhaust should look like so I can’t tell you if this is the right one.

It has the cross over switch to change the fuel supply from petrol at startup to TVO once warm. I didn’t look at the dash to see if it had a temperature gauge!
So I have no idea why it has a diesel Fuel tank fitted.

The exhaust elbow has a support bracket on it. I’ve never seen that either.

And I’m not sure if this as a 12Volt dynamo? can you tell me, please leave a comment below.

There will be more pictures of the lighting kit which I believe was fitted when the tractor was new in the lighting page to the right.

Thanks Mike for letting me get the information I need. Watch this space for plough lamp brackets on sale soon.

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I’ve updated the lighting page. Let me know what you think by leaving a comment to this post. click on the comments button just below this post and check out the new lighting section on the right.

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Me Ploughing

I’m feeling a little sad with the tractor not working at the moment so I’ve posted this video of my ploughing last year. This is what I’ll be doing once I get the engine rebuilt

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Phil's completed 30 cwt trailer

I was passed  some information today about a supplier of Ferguson trailer parts and complete trailers.

The company is Fergie Trailer Shop   and is owned by Phil Kolbe. I made an enquiry about the side rails for a ferguson 3 ton trailer. Phil responded quickly and I hope will be able to help me friend.

The products Phil supplies are quality items and I know he’s spent a lot of time making sure the items he produces are as true to the originals as possible. I wish you well for the future Phil. 

The company started by producing a 30cwt reproduction but it looks as though they are branching out into the 3ton trailer aswell. I would say get in touch if there is something you are after as they have more itms than are listed on the website!

When communicating with Phil don’t forget to mention you saw the advert on ploughmyfield.com

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I now have an engineering company working on my design of the Ferguson/Lucas wing mounted number plate holder, that came as part of the Lucas lighting kit check out the Lucas information in the lighting page, link on the right. They should be ready to post by the middle of next week (first week in Feb 2009). I have added a button on the right hand side for you to take a look at the product and order one. I have already had a lot of interest.

Comments
I think I have fixed the comments section of the site so you can add a comment to any of the posts.

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Thanks to all of you for sending me an email to say you are all still alive out there.

There seems to be a problem with the add a comment section of the website which I’m looking into. So that’s why no one has left a comment.

I have this morning placed an order for number plate brackets. I will get an ordering webpage setup and I will then be taking orders for the parts. No news on the plough lamp brackets yet. I’ll have to finding someone who is willing to make them but the last time I did this it proved to expensive.

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I’ve been tinkering with the website tonight as well as rubbing down the inlet manifold. If there are any problems with any of the pages, something missing or something you’d like to see on the site then please get in touch.

Forthcoming web stuff, 
I’d like to put a page together of restoration tips,
No one is leaving any feedback on the site so I’d like a age on how to use this new site,
You can’t go any where at the moment without hearing the words credit crunch. so I’d like to do a page on tips to save money whilst restoring.

Number Plate holders

I’ve asked a local engineering company to give me a quote to have another batch of number plate holders made. I still get one or two people emailing about them.  If you are interested in one please email me. and I’ll send you an email back telling you there ready when they come into stock.

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 The rocker cover is now in place, I’ve added gasket sealant to the top side of the gasket which is made of cork. hopefully this means I can remover the rocker cover with gasket attached to check the timing once the engine has run in and replace it again. Someone told me I should do this, check the tappets after running in. I’m not sure how long I have to leave it before I check then. If anyone knows please drop me an email. It really is starting to look like an engine. I’m now working on the air intake and the venturi section which is rather rattle. At some point I will have to give the block a coat of primer grey before I add to much to it and I can’t reach all the hard to reach corners.

Rocker Cover on

Manifolds inlet/exhaust to be added next

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I’ve cleaned and repainted the rocker cover, another aluminium part. I used original Ferguson 50 year old gaskets to assemble it back together. I’ve masked the two badges on the side one saying gap 12″ and the other talking about the standard motor company. These won’t see the light of day until the final coat of paint has gone on.

Original Ferguson Gaskets

Ready to Paint

I’ve get 6 nuts left over already and they are in box marked rocker! Oh well I’m sure I’ll have more and for now I’ve got to work out where these go. On the up side I have had one bolt from the start that I didn’t have any clue where it went. I now know it attaches the water pump to the housing.

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Hi John,

Your email really cheered me up today, Thank You. I know people are looking at the website (309 yesterday)but  communication from you readers is a little on the thin side. As for the donations page well no one’s thought ploughmyfield is worth a £1 to help running costs.

I don’t have a spare Diesel engine lying around sorry. Take a look at YouTube to see the v8′s and other engines people have fitted to fergies. Are you a member of FoFH? if not join £15ish and you can get on the forum and ask hundreds of people. Colin Taylor do you know of anyone I know you live over the water? please send me an email or can I put John in touch with you directly.  

Work still to do.

Next Jobs,
Rocker cover- wash, dismantle,  clean, assemble, mask, etch primer, undercoat, 
Exhaust Manifold- degrease,wash, clean,  high temperature Paint – black. 

Block - 
Sump plug-  gasket, fit
Sump filter – clean, undercoat, fit
Block- seal (pump x2, dip stick, front cover, Manifolds, Injectors, Water pumps, starter), clean, clean gasket compound, primer, paint 

Control Linkages,
Decompressor,
Inlet manifold,
Air filter,
Fuel Lines,
Fuel FIlters,
Fuel pump,
Fuel Compressor
Oil Breather,
Water Pump,
Fuel Tank,
Starter,
Dynamo,
Wiring,
Front axle frame, 
Front axle assembly,

Podcasts
I’ve been loving the farming today Podcasts from the BBC. 15mins in the car on the way to work of farming topics.
Farming Today Website 

And I notice the Yorkshire post does a weekly farming related podcast as well.

Yorkshire post Weekly farming podcast

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Not much to say in this one. I’ll let the photo’s speak for themselves

Start of Today

The lineup

It took about 20mins to get the clutch lined up.

Engine In

So much still to do. but today it feels as though I’ve reached a milestone.

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I finally got into the garage tonight. Christmas seems a long time ago. I’ve been so frustrated at not being able to spand a couple of hours in the garage.

My main priority is to get the engine attached to the tractor.
I’ve re attached the cover for the valves which has the oil filler and breather attached to it. It looks great. I can’t wait until the whole  tractor looks a nice new shiney coat of grey.

Cover bolted in place

In order to add the engine I started cleaning around the outside of the bell housing. I wanted to clean so far away from the engine but I didn’t want to repaint the whole gearbox section. I want the tractor back together and running I start tackling more restoration.

Bell housing without paint

The section directly behind the engine is full of mud and oil. Its to fiddly to get in and clean once he engine is in place so I’m doing it now.

Starting Mechanism needs cleaning

More to come as I want the engine in by the end of this weekend.

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I had a sudden panic whilst replacing the thrust bearing on the clutch. The housing is not symetrical.  The arms that the springs connect to Which way round should it go?

Thrust Bearing Holder

So I went trawling through the photo’s I have taken when I took the tractor apart. A piece of advice take as many pictures as you can before and whilst you are doing anything. I found the photo I needed. I’m going to put a page together tip for restoring and before you start restoring. Taking photo’s will be on the list.

Archive clutch thrust picture

The housing gasket that connects the engine to the gearbox section tool about an hour to remove. I have to remember it is made of alloy and will require something to stop the galvanic corosion occuring.

I still have lots of cleaning up to do with this middle section. It is looking a lot claener though. I don’t want to remove any paint as it’s just the engine I’m working on for now. The main aim is to get it all working again. Then i can start stripping paint.

The next few pictures are a reminder to me what need doing.

Clean gasket surface

Housing from above

Housing from the side

Closer side view

And this is what I am trying to get back to. This was the tractor just before I started taking it apart.

Before

And finally, here is the best picture I could get of the ferguson model that comes with the magazine that has been launched. Its a small model so the photo isn’t great. It is a very detailed model. How accurate it it I also don’t know as I’ve researched TE-F20′s mostly.

Tractor Model

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I have had so much trouble getting 5/16″ spring washers. Most of the covers (sump, timing cover, valve cover) on the diesel engine use 5/16″ UNC threaded bolt for a 1/2″ across flats spanner or socket. I ran out of 5/16″ spring washers I decided to replace the washers as its hard to clean the old ones, I tried 3 places to get some replacements! They could all sell me M8 spring washers. I explained that if I had wanted M8 I would have asked for M8! I should have known really that B&D bolts my usual supplier of bolts was the place to go. when I asked Andrew said “did I want a light or heavy weight spring washer”. How refreshing.

M8 ID=8.55mm   5/16″ ID=8.05mm  that’s .5mm difference.

I’ve left the valve cover / oil filler and breather cover that goes on the side of the engine in the degreaser over Christmas it is another alloy part. It came out nice and shiney so I’ll be heating it up in the oven and giving it an etch primer later today.

lock washer sizes

 Next jobs starting tonight,

I want to attach the engine to the tractor so in order to do this… I need to.
Cleanout the inside and outside of the clutch housing.  Its full of oil from when the seal at the back of the engine split.
Replace the clutch thrust bearing.
Clean up the bolts and 1 stud that hold the engine to clutch housing.
Work out how I’m going to lift the engine and move it into the correct position/height.

Ferguson Tools
I’ve added a Ferguson Tools page below on the right. Information about the Britool tools originally available when the tractors where supplied new.

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Merry Christmas to you all,

I hope you have been good and santa has been good to you?
I’ve received  no tractor related presents’s for christmas. I take this as sort of a blessing as it means I am free to buy my own stuff. There isn’t much in the world of tractor items I do want (except a full lucas lighting kit).

I did see an advert on television tonight which made me chuckle.
http://www.tractorcollection.co.uk/

Collect tractors part 1

When you read the small print it will cost you about £8 a magazine every fortnight and they don’t say how many are in the collection.
Still it would only be the first one I was interested in and it’s £1.99, I might get it to see how good the model is.

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I took Thursday and Friday off with the intension of spending 2 solid days in the garage working towards getting the tractor engine back onto the tractor and running by the end of the year. I’ve spent 3 days painting and decorating one of the rooms in the house! I managed a couple of hours in the garage on Sunday night.

I’ve got the timing cover fitted on the second attempt. The cable tie I was using on the first go got caught and I couldn’t pull it through the inspection cover. So I had to start again using string. The idea is to tie the chain tensioner sprocket in position with string. fit the cover then tighten the tensioner bolt then cut the string. Easy in theory, a little harder in practice. Well I finally got it. I don’t think any of the timing has been affected. It was an effort re inserting the new oil seal on the inside of the cover as well. Al in now.

Timing cover

Next move is to add the cover to the cam follower tops. Then i can think about getting the clutch housing cleaned up and try to join the two halves!

eBay
I sold a tractor part on eBay for 99p I don’t think I’m going to be a millionaire very soon.

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Just a Quick one tonight.

I’ve se the decompression gaps on the exhaust side of the rocker, 1,2 & 4 cylinders set to .030″ and 3 cylinder set to .045″. once set by turning the decompression shaft it really made a difference as o how easy it was to turn over the engine. They where all different gaps before I set them.

Timing cover has been stripped of all it’s paint and has been heated up in the oven then painted with etching primer along with the fuel filter top. I’m going to re fit the cover tomorrow as I am happy with the timing. I am also trying to get the chain tensioner set as it’s just a cable tie holding it in compression at the moment.

Timing Cover Before

Timing Cover After

Filter Top

Colin thanks for the info on the spanner I’ve added it to the spanner page.

Comments, You know you lot can add a comment to any of these posts? Just after each post there is a line that says comments. if you click on it you can enter a comment about the post. That way I and others can see what you’ve written. If it’s a great point it would be great to share it with all of us.  There are about 350 people looking at this site each day. no one have anything to add?

Pictures, You can also click on any of the picture to see them at a larger size.

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A great night in the garage.

The flywheel is on. Thanks Mark for the aligning tool it worked wonders. I added a new pilot bearing to the clutch before installing it. I have had to refit the old tab washers as I’ve had 2 other lost sent to me and they are wrong so I’ve made a not of the sizes they should be just in case. 

Flywheel in place

Correct Flywheel Tab Washer size

Clutch plates in place with the aid of Mark

Fitting the clutch moved the timing chain out on the front of the engine. I wanted to go over the settings from the manual again so it wasn’t to much hastle to reset everything.

Tractor Timing all setup

I’ve even made a Video of the engine turning over. It now turns much easier with the Flywheel in place.

Get a Video here of the engine turning by hand (23meg) .mov

Get a video here of the engine turning by hand (10meg) .m4v

Timing cover in the degreaser bath. It’s another aluminium part so I’ll take al the paint off the outside, heat it up and spray with Etch primer the same as I did for the sump. I want to get the cover on ASAP as I have a cable tie holding the chain tensioner in position.

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I know people search this site looking for plough information. 
So here is a gem of a link for you. I have Nev to thank for this. Nev from the FoFH forum. He came across a link to a site which has on it lots of ferguson manuals. It seems to be an American site as most of the manuals are from the ford ferguson days.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/forums/manuals

There is one manual about the servicing of a ferguson mouldboard plough. It is listed page by page. I’ve stitched the pages together and saved them as a PDF document. It makes Fascinating reading. lots of terminology, problem solving setup. 

I’ve never seen a Ferguson manual like this. does one exist?

Download Manual Here

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 I finally managed to get back into the garage. It’s been a week. The first think I did was the usual tidy up. I am a city boy so I don’t have a large barn but a small garage to keep my tractor in. You can see the lack of space. Still I’m happy I have a space out of the weather to work on the tractor.

My Garage

I’ve got what I think is the last delivery of parts I’ll need to get the tractor up and running. It includes Front axle pin and bearing, clutch pilot bearing, clutch thrust bearing and tab washers to hold the fly wheel on. I  got them from 

Geoff Mathews Engineering a local tractor parts supplier. They didn’t take to long to get and the price was reasonable.

Final Parts

I’ve had to clean up the clutch and fly wheel they where covered in oil. I’ve given them the usual bath in degreaser. I think the clutch assembly is new as it is carrying an MF part number.

Clutch in degreasing Bath

 I think the clutch plate has been recently added as there doesn’t look much wear on it. I’ve decided not to replace it. I think I can always replace it at a later date if need be.

Clutch plate pic 1

Clutch plate Pic 2

I’m still not sure about the timing still need to check it. I also need to do the decompression settings for cylinders 1,2 and 4.

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 Hi Tim,   the tractor and Jim arrived home safely   going Holmesfield and Ringinglow   then Nether Green.  very small picture  if i make it to large it will not email.

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I had this email from Gary about ferguson Implements and there manufacture. I added some information  but I wondered if anyone out there had anymore help for Gary? I also thought you might find it interesting and useful.

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Tonight I added The Rocker to the top of the engine.

Rocker Added (click to enlarge)

 With the rocker added I set the gap between the valve and tappet of 0.012″

I then moved to the timing chain on the front of the engine. Where are you ROY. I could really do with some support on this one.  I know this is one of the trickiest things to get right with the rebuild. 

First was to add the shims back behind the cog on the crank shaft.

Shims behind Cog

The shims are added to make sure the cog is in line with the other two.

Three Cogs in place

I then tried the chain. I’m not sure if the cam is in the right place. I will have to re check it after reading the manual again. (The manual isn’t that helpful. It flits around from page to page so much)

Chain & tensioner in place

Here you see the chain tensioner in position.

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Hi All, I have sent an email to Jim but not had a reply yet. I told him the tractor could be collected apart from the ign warning light stays on the rest is ok, with the engine running the battery voltage increases so appears to be charging, I did not get the light to go off with your dynamo so maybe the control box or wiring are at fault. I am a bit stuck with that problem now.

Had a run up and down the road all ok recorded it on the camera video, but to large to email.

Speak to you soon Roy.

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Tractor Move (click to enlarge)

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Hi all , the arms are much easier to moveFree Arms

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Freeing them

Hitting the link arms with wood

Cover Off

Inside The Back housing

Pump out on the floor

Lifting Back the cover

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Called in today to see Roy. ended up spending the afternoon there helping remove the hydraulic piston and arms. Had to give it a bit of application as was seized in up position so wouldn’t remove from the body. Lifted it out, removed split pin (2 inch nail) eased arms and put back. Progress is great. Photo shows Roy replacing bolts – note blurring to hands due to speed of movement! – Jim

Replacing lift cover

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Called in today to see Roy. ended up spending the afternoon there helping remove the hydraulic piston and arms. Had to give it a bit of application as was seized in up position so wouldn’t remove from the body. Lifted it out, removed split pin (2 inch nail) eased arms and put back. Progress is great. Photo shows Roy replacing bolts – note blurring to hands due to speed of movement! – Jim

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Roy after taking the weekend off to go to the Newark Vintage tractor show has been busy again. after picking up some much needed supplies from the show Roy is straight back to it.
He can now start the tractor by using the starting handle.
Starting on the Handle

He now has the problem that the lower link arms are stuck in the up position even after attaching a weight to them to try to pull them down. Investigations will continue. no doubt a posting soon.

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Hi All.
The housing is installed plus a new radiator tap , the thermo connection is simply a threaded sleeve into a new housing, would fit existing old housing if not too corroded and if available?, all seem water tight.

Thermo Fix

The new fuel tank bolt holes did not all line up now sorted.

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Hi Tim,The head you had have collected from the remanufactures for your TE-F20 looks really good. Jims tractor is coming along  one or two  problems,   it requires a replacement thermostat housing due to corrosion, Using my old brake pipe kit i have made up a oil pipe to gauge  in copper looks better    the old connection was wrong as the new gauge was a male fitting. put some transmission oil   in and had the tractor running  not checked the transmission yet or the lift. Roy.  

Jim You better take a look at this!
Fired Up

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Hello all, very near now to firing up, the earth battery lead as supplied was just slightly short.  So I made up a metal strap as photo and bolted both together behind  the metal panel, The thermostat housing  has some corrosion  where the  thermostat  screes in and seats.  Will try  a washer as photo, The offside picture shows the exhaust on plus petrol pipe The dash photo shows the ign light I put this on what really is the wrong side but is nearer the ign switch,  the proper hole on the other side has been sealed. Still wanting a drain plug for the transmission but may try to start tomorrow. The tap now appears to be ok  no petrol leaks.

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Jim The owner writesCalled over to see Roy at the weekend and found him at a crucial point – filling up with water for the first time in ~12 years. A couple of drips from hose joints, but nothing to worry about. Brilliant!The new skins have arrived at work so I will make a start on these this week. Another thing I need to sort is the cowling between fan and radiator as there isn’t one. If we can’t pick one up which I doubt as they are like hen’s teeth, are there any drawings with measurements so we can fabricate one?Roy Filling The radiatorRoy has also been working on the electrics getting the wires from the battery to the starterRouting of the electrics

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Hi all,
had a good 6 hours on the tractor today. The new shells are standard  with aprox 2 thou wear  on the crankshaft journals  with a little oil on assembley no play in the big end not bad for a 1950 tractor. Sump on, oil in the engine, bits needed so not tryng to start the tractor  yet. I also refitted  the half shaft and  brakes  today.  Dismantled the parts 3 times to get the end float sorted. Sorry Jim bought to many shims has Tim got hub end float? need to sort the offside brake out not working correctly,the new [2nd hand ] brake rod went on ok  thanks to Fergiland.

Still need a transmission drain plug may get one at the Newark show.  8/11/08.

Regards Roy.

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Thanks for the picture of the control box in place on the TE-20 I can see on Jims in the same place as the photo that there is an fixed bracket with 2 holes so will fit there.

a list of parts.
Fergiland have a breather bolt plus a petrol pipe.
Rubber for bonnet top of instrument panel.
Rubber curved pipe from the end of the crankcase breather pipe to the air cleaner very short.
Brake rod plus a clevis pin.
Sump gasket.
Battery leads to switch and starter motor x2
5 gall sae 40 oil.
Transmision drain plug.
Half shaft stud plus 6 nuts and washers
Half shaft gaskets [2] plus metal distance shims [3] 30thou [ 2] 15 thou.
1 Set of big end shells plus 4 locking tabs.(I need to confirm but appear to be standard.)

Fergiland told me that best to ring and order then would be ready for collection. plus I could ring old20 and check what they have in stock.

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First pic looking good reasemble of shaft and brakes.

2nd stiill good the brakes are dry but will still fit the seal.

3rd Bad news the shaft seized on a stud wont move leave until tommorow.

4th Try the big hammer at last off 1 new stud needed.

5 th On the bench.

6th Brake parts seized remove and clear.

7th Not my day a little pressure by hand on the brake lever and the rod snapped had to drill out the clevis pin.

8th Some bearing movement but maybe more shims will reduce this.

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Hi All

Some good news the half shafts had leaked oil onto the brakes but originally it was a big job but with the tractor, there is a simple way as per photo

They slip over the shaft to stop oil getting out  as long as the bearing is pre oiled no problem. The next two pictures are a little out of focus. I will try to get some better shots. But I have been looking at the Oil pump

I’ve also taken the sump off and had a look at the main bearings

Regards Roy.

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