I have spent a few days in the lake district with my family getting away from it all. It seems my tractor spotting obsession followed me. It has become apparent that tractors have got under my skin and into my veins. I couldn’t resist taking a few snaps of this very original looking TE-F20. I didn’t find its serial number but it has a lift pump. I think the cab is a later addition as it has all the lighting kit on the back including plough lamp bracket.

Tags: CAB, Lighting, TE-F20.

Picture by kind permission Motorman Tel’s Flickr Site

Usually only a Horse ploughing match, this year Beamish decide to show what replaced horses on the farm. Enter me. I was asked to demonstrate using the museums TE-A20 (TVO converted) Ferguson and my 2 Furrow plough. I had so much fun. A big thank you to Beamish for letting me be there.

The day started very much earlier than the opening picture. I Had travelled up from Sheffield the day before and spent the evening chatting to the plough match competitors. I was told it was a very friendly sort of an event.  At about 7:30am I made my way to where the tractor was stored. Why did I get up so early when the ploughing didn’t star until 10:30am. I had to build my plough before I could use it.

Armed only with two trusty Ferguson spanners and a pot of grease It took about an hour to put the whole thing back together. I’m glad I remembered to  take a couple of pictures of it all assembled to know how to reassemble it from pieces.

Not bad for £75 Well that’s what I paid for it originally. I’d struggle to get one as good for £275 now. The mouldboards and skimmers and coulters are covered in grease from the last time I used the plough It is not rust on them.

Ferguson Tractor Jack

With the plough assembled with plenty of time to spare I could experiment with the Ferguson Tractor Jack I had bought as Auction a couple of months earlier. I can’t remember why I only bought the back section. I have the front. With the right lower links fitted to the tractor (the original lwer links not new replacements like my tractor) it was easy to attach the jack.

So then the moment of truth the lift. Needless to say it all went according to plan both back wheels off the ground ready to either change the wheels or alter the track width.

It works and it works so well. You can see a movie below of the lowering process.

With the Tractor filled with TVO it was off to the plough field.

First Job marking out. one stake at either end and one in the middle. I measured from the next plot over about 15ft. I’m not sure in a real plough competition what this distance should be. I was on the start of a row and was only ploughing as a demonstration.

I am not sure what happened the as I made several passes up and down the field but somehow in the excitement and concentration I forgot to get off the tractor and take some pictures.

I was following the opening on Stubble start as recommended by the ferguson manual. opening on Stubble

This is a marke cotrat to opening on Grass. opening on Grass

So the first time I remembered to take some pictures I had completed the “Open”.

More to follow tomorrow night

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My reply

Hi Richard,

Glad you like the site,

would it be OK to publish the email you sent on the website with the pictures you supplied?

Please send more pictures of all of those special accessories for your ferguson you mentioned.
I know it’s a subject all the readers are interested in.

can we have some upclose pictures of the wiring for the lighting Kit please. Where it goes inside the bonnet, where it goes along the engine, at the back of the dash, to the back mudguard.

Regards

Tim.

Richard  sent some more pictures back. I don’t think the plough lamp or number plate bracket is wired up as i can’t see any of the wires.

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Saturday 17th October 2009 saw the 118th Norton Ploughing Association plough match just south of Sheffield. Roy went along and was kind enough to send in some photo’s I was unable to attend as I was at Beamish.org.uk attending their ploughmatch on the Sunday.

Hi Tim

Norton match was very good the weather and ground superb. I spoke to Maurice Butcher he drove the Bedford lorry at WILSON & SON (Ferguson dealers in Sheffield) for 2 or 3 years in the late 1950′s he know Frank Wilson of course and Freddie Wilson. Freddie was the son of Frank. Kenneth Wilson was listed as a director of Wilsons in the 1950′s Kellys directories as was their  father Alfred E. Wilson.

Roy.

One of the competitors used this Ferguson TE-D20.  I think the grey item cable tied to the front is to attach a marker to line up on the first run. Getting the first run as straight as possible is one key parts to a good plough score all the other furrows are based on that first one. The Number plate of this tractor is very close to mine an age related plate I believe.

Here is the plough at the back of that tractor. A Ferguson 2 Furrow with front furrow adjuster. The most interesting thing about the picture I think is the inserted item. It looks like some sort of attachment to hold the implement up without engaging the hydraulics whilst moving between jobs. I don’t think it was a Ferguson item but I did see one of these for sale on eBay recently.

Another Ferguson 2 furrow plough. This one I’m not sure would be allowed into the Ferguson class as it has a couple of banned items fitted. 1. the adjustable top link. 2. A stabalizer bar fitted to the left lower link arm.

Checkout the rules of the Ferguson class (now officially recognised my the society of ploughmen) here if you do want to enter a Ferguson class and there is one available at your next plough match.

Ferguson Tractor & Ferguson Plough rules

This looks like an FE35 with a Ransome plough, probably entered into the Vintage Hydraulic class.

And finally the “get the job done” solution, this modern alternative to vintage ploughing. It just doesn’t look the same as a nice Ferguson and 2 furrow plough.

Tags: 2 Furrow plough, Ferguson, Norton, Plough.

Ploughmyfield.com gets a logo

To me there is nothing that represents Ferguson tractors better than the Ferguson spanner. Nearly all the bolts on the tractor and implements can be tightened or loosened using the double ended Ferguson spanner. Whilst ploughing the notches on the side indicate depth of furrow in Inches and on the other side millimetres.  So to me there was nothing other than to have a representation of the spanner as the logo for the website. I also like the idea that a spanner represents mechanical and it’s the mechanical repair and restoration of tractors that I am also trying to demonstrate with the site.

So the next step ploughmyfield.com t-shirts!

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I have had this Exclusive email in from Stephen in production on the reborntractor.net project detailing proposed release date and cost of forthcoming DVD. I’m trying to get a copy as soon as possible to review for the Site.

Thanks Stephen Looking forward to seeing your work. The Flickr photo’s look great and really wet your appetite.

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For those of us in the northern hemisphere the nights are really starting to draw in. It’s dark by 7pm where I live. Now is the time of year when I start thinking about all those winter projects. I never seem to get any restoration work done in the summer there is always something else to do.  Throughout the summer there are so many country shows, tractor working days and plough  matches to distract you.  So now is the time to dream about a restored tractor immerging from the garage in the spring having spent the winter being fully restored. Somehow it never quite goes to plan and I end up completing less than half the jobs I intended to complete. I believe you have to have a plan or a list in place of the thinks you would like to achieve otherwise you get distracted from the jobs you have set out to accomplish.

• Re arrange the garage – I can’t get in to work at the moment
• Lighting Kit,
  Clean the side lights and paint.
  Source new cork packers top and bottom, grommits for bonnet, wire braid(black) Heat shrink. – Newark
  Finish the wiring loom and install it on the tractor.
  Complete a wiring loom for the back of the tractor.
• Finish Painting the tractor.
  This is a large task so splitting it down to smaller items might make it more manageable. It’s also more items to tick off when complete. Everyone likes crossing completed tasks off a list don’t they?
• Half shaft seals Replace.
• New mudguard skins + Paint.
• Steering box seals.
• Fill sand and paint the rear wheel centres.
• Shotblast, fill sand and paint the rear wheel rims.
  I also need new tyres for the back wheels these will have to be Goodyears 11.2×28 at the same time I should fit new inner tubes.
• Use the Ferguson jack I’ve bought. To do this I need to replace the new repro lower link arms I have bought with some original ones as the new ones are a different size and shape to the originals which means the connection for the jack doesn’t fit.
• Ferguson Link Box – Renovate, new skin, welding needed

I’m never going to get that lot done in a winter!

One distraction I have booked is the Newark Vintage tractor & Heratage show on the 7th -8th November at the Newark showground. By pre entering you save £2 on the ticket price. I’m going with Roy and after the show we will be going to have a look at his TE-D20 he bought earlier this year, the restoration progress of which has been documented on these pages

Great Picture.
Have you ever seen that picture of Harry Ferguson driving the Ferguson Tractor out of the Hotel in London? Originally the photo was taken at the time of the tractors launch. Great publicity shot. Well this picture isn’t that one. It is however just as fun. I’d love to have a go at this it looks a great challenge.

http://www.englishheritageimages.com/pictures_430568/st-etheldredas-church-hatfield-aa054112.html

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reborntractor.net trailer video (not 3ton trailer) available for you to take a look at. I must admit the presenter is a little easier on the eye than Harold Beer! I wonder when the DVD is going to be ready and how much it will cost?

Wheel Weight Purchase.

After a conversation with Colin Taylor he had the bright idea that I should be looking at collecting Ferguson accessories rather than implments. I barely have the room to store and work on my tractor let alone implements. I came across this ferguson front wheel weight with 4 bolt holes rather than the 3 bolt holes for the earlier front wheel weights and rims. So I’m on the lookout for another one. It should be cheeper to buy one rather than a pair. I’ll add it to my list of items to buy.

I can’t find any information about these weights anywhere. When where they introduced? Which models will they fit?  I know the earlier Ferguson wheels had only 3 bolt holes.  Anyone with information, advice?

Also Where can I get new bolts from the ends must be square to fit in the holes on the back. I’d like to use the weights in conjunction with my transport box to pick a bit more up in the box without the tractor front end lifting.

Lighting Wiring loom.

I’ve spent quite a lot of time recently trying to reproduce the wiring loom that came as part of the Joseph Lucas lighting kit. With the side lights I purchased I have one length of original wire which I have measured. I have then compared this against the wire in this picture.

I have then with the aid of a bit of string made a wire harness to test on the tractor.

BA Bolts

The 0BA bolts have arrived and they are very close to the originals. not exactly sure if they are the same as the originals seem to be worn.

(photo’s to follow)

Beamish Weekend + Vid
I spent a great weekend at Beamish where an agricultural weekend was held. A great FE35 and 3ton trailer in very original condition also two fordsons with very different specifications.

Using a TE-D20 to bale straw from the thresher.

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I hate to see metric bolts on my 50 year old Ferguson tractor. Nowhere in the TE-F20 parts list can I see anything that isn’t imperial sizes. To me the wrong bolt in the wrong place can kill the image of a nicely restored tractor. I’ve gone to great lengths to try to source like for like on all the bolts I have replaced on the tractor.  Recently I even got hold of a rusty old plough someone was discarding to source 12 X 1″1/16 A/F,  5/8″ UNF nuts for the wheel rim bolts. The modern 15/16″ A/F nuts cannot be undone with a Fergie spanner. So why the rant? well I’m having trouble sourcing a nut and bolt and it’s really bugging me. I need 8x  0BA X 1/2″ long round headed bolt. See the picture below.
Does anyone please know where I can get these from?

Why do I need them? This type of bolt came in the Lucas lighting kit and was used to fit the sidelight arms to the tractor bonnet. Can you help? Have you got some? Do you know a supplier? Please get in touch.

The elusive 0BA x 1/2″ long bolt and nut

Follow up to this plee, one of the readers Jerry Galvin has sent in this link to a company specialising in BA nuts and bolts over the internet. I’ve ordered some and I’ll keep you posted on there suitability. Thanks Jerry

Whilst on the subject of nuts just spend 5 minutes walking round you tractor before you start it up next time and see if all the bolts have nuts and are tightened up. Why do I say this? Because I found a nut missing from one of the bolts that holds the dynamo onto the engine bracket. What would have happened if it had vibrated itself out?

Loose bolt close up

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Paintwork DVD Release
After reading about the forthcoming release of a DVD on tractor painting in Classic Massey Magazine I contacted Old Pond Publishing to find out more information as I know painting tractors is a subject readers can’t get enough of.

Alan doing his stuff at Newark 2007

Vapormatic e-Newsletter
Be in with a chance of winning a cordless drill, sign up for the Vapormatic e-newsletter for a chance to win.

http://www.vapormatic.co.uk/subscribe

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Saturday saw the best Longshaw sheep dog trials to date. This year was the 111th and I believe this is the oldest sheep dog trial in the country if not ever.

I usually attend the Fell race on the Saturday and travel to the event on my tractor. I met a friend on the way whilst on one leg of the journey. Great picture this as Alan can’t drive!

I Parked up, folded in the side lights and placed over the tractor the newly acquired canvas cover. As you can see from the wheels the field was very muddy. Many of the cars opting to park on the road.

A lot of cars got stuck with the boggy conditions. I was asked to help pull them out!

I’m afraid I didn’t do very well. You can see in the photo above the right back wheel of the tractor slipping.
With a lack of tread on the tyre and no Dif lock I couldn’t shift this car. Much to the delight of all my running friends.

So in came a proper tractor.

great comment here from james.

A I can just imagine the thoughts running through my son’s head.

“So why can’t dad get one of these? The seats more comfortable, and it’s got a cab, and its got way more gears, and you can get cars out of the mud, and it’s got a stereo.”Yes Ollie but it won’t go in the garage!

On the up side, I had a fantastic drive out, I won a prize in the fell race for first runner  to finish who had arrived on a tractor. I was the only one!
I also provided a bit of entertainment for all my running friends. I don’t know how I’m going to top this next year.

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I couldn’t leave my tractor with just one side light arm, so I managed to find another one.

Notes for me on fitting.

Wiring the Lighting Kit.
55 watts (main Bulb)= 12Volts x 4.58amps
wiring (5 amp min) – path. connector in bonnet.
black, 10m (Earth)
Red, 10m (To Main)
Blue 5m
Green 2m
Brown 2m

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Rather than taking a rusty tractor to it’s annual outing to the Longshaw sheepdog trials on Saturday 6th September, I’ve followed Roys post below and I’ve painted the back wheels of my tractor. I’ve not done a proper job so don’t look to closely. I still can’t find the money for the new tyres so I masked the back wheel rims Wire brushed them and used a £2 can or grey primer to paint them. I removed the centres and as these had been shotblased I just painted them. They look a so much better than rust! The centres are unusual as they have lots of holes in. I presume for bolting wheel weights to. Someone suggested they where centres from a Ford tractor. Can anyone identify the pattern of holes and match them to a tractor?

A great Follow up from Roy here, It looks as though this tractor also shares the same centres, thanks for the picture Roy.

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I can’t believe it, Thanks to Mike I have one swing out side light arm for the bonnet. It looks a bit sad on it’s own.

Mike who’s tractor appears at the bottom of the lighting page has only had one side arm on his tractor. In a recent meeting he told me he was selling the tractor and offered me the arm. It looks fab in place in it’s new home and all I need now is the other side and some wire.

The arms are held on with screws and bolts. As ever one screw proved difficult to remove. The screwdriver kept slipping in the slot and I couldn’t get a grip with a pair of pliers. In the end I resorted to filing two flats on the nut and holding it with some mole grips. Finally it was off.

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It’s time to look again at Roy’s progress. I get an email from Roy from time to time letting me know how the restoration of his TE-D20 is going. It has got to the stage that the mechanical side of the tractor is all working correctly so Roy has turned his attention to the cosmetics. Having had a tow ball welded to the back of the transmission housing (see previous post for pictures) of his Fergie he has spent many hours grinding off the tow ball to return it to normal. It’s got to the painting stage and it’s looking good in red oxide primer, then grey top coat.

 ”I finally got the wheels from Sleaford last week (the sellar had arranged to supply early ferguson front centres), collected new tyres and tubes from Fergiland today it was a nice run out with a lunch stop. Busy stripping them  have red oxide primed them,. I will have the tyres fitted but not  inflated to allow spraying after masking.”  Roy

It’s nice to see Roy’s wife is taking an active role in Roy’s hobby, we just need to get her onto the grey ones now.

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Lucas LD109 side lights as fitted to many 1950′s Vehicles

I’ve splashed out again on the side lights that fit on the end of the side light metal brackets on the swing out arms which are attached to the bonnet of a ferguson tractor.

I still need the metal arms to complete the set. I am becoming worryingly obsessed by the Ferguson lighting kit originally available in 1949. The last little bit to get is the swing out arms which are fetching very high prices at the moment. I am thinking I will have to bite the bullet and spend what it takes to get a pair of swing out arms the next time I see some.

The full lighting Kit can be found on the lighting page

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Ferguson 2 Furrow Plough
For over a year now my Ferguson 2F plough has been in the north east at Beamish Museum. This weekend I’ve liberated it.  With the Autumn ploughing under way in many areas and my tractors engine back together I am ready to practice my ploughing skills. The intension is to set the plough up using this excellent Ford Ferguson Manual.

Setup and servicing a Moldboard plough

Then as I don’t own any land I was hoping a local farmers would have some small fields they needed ploughing and let me plough them. This would allow me to practice and get them a free ploughed field.

I can catch up on the Ploughing competition rules here. The ferguson tractor with ferguson plough has it’s own set of rules

I don’t own a car with a towbar so transporting the plough was as much hassle as getting it there in the first place. I have to break it down into small enough pieces to carry it in the back of my estate car then re assemble it at the other end, not Ideal I know. I’ll keep you posted on my progress, after all this site is called plough my field and there hasn’t been much of they going on!

Ferguson Jack
Saturday 22nd August 2009 saw a Cheffins auction sale at the Harrogate showground. A friend went and I am now the owner of a working Ferguson Jack. The plate is missing from the back section, but is in place although unreadable on the front section. There where two types of jack produced for the TE-20 before a 3rd type for the FE35 was produced. The difference between the two types was the introduction of the TE-F20. Because the diesel model had battery boxes fitted to the trumpet housings of the rear axles the original design interfered with the battery holders so a re-designed version working off the connection point for the lower ling arms instead. This later modification ment the jack could be used my all types of TE20 tractor. I do own a ferguson jack already but as the front and back have been welded together and  number of holes drilled in the frames so that the former owner could turn them into a go kart it was going to require a lot of effort to turn it back into a working example.

I found it a great pain using a car jack to change the back wheels of the tractor when I recently had to swap the centres so that the originals could be shot blaster. Whe the originals to go back on and the current wheels needing to be painted I will be swapping wheels a lot in the coming weeks. The jack should make life a little easier and with the lack of space to collect implements then collecting accessories seems to fit better with my situation.

I presume an instruction manual was produced although I have never seen one. I will also try to track down at least a photocopy. Do you have a copy you can let me have please get in touch. As well as the original instructions on the jacks use I would also like to put together a short video demonstration its use.

Here you can see Colin’s Video of the Tractor Jack in action lifting all 4 wheels of the tractor clean off the ground.

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Hi All,

I’ve been away on my holidays as many of you are (or your getting in the harvest) the emails have fallen off as everyone has better things to do other than look at websites!

Before I left I was bidding on a pair of fold out side arms on eBay. They made £150 and there weren’t even any lights on the end!

If any one does have one or both of these lights they would like to sell. Please get in touch as it’s the last Item I need for the lighting kit on my tractor.

I’ve been down to Cornwall on my holidays and whilst away of course I’m always on the lookout for Fergusons or any other tractor for that matter. Near to were we where staying was the 54th West of England Steam Engine Society’s Rally. Well worth a look I thought. Not only over 52 steam engines but motocycles, vintage cars, scale steam engines, stationary engines and VINTAGE TRACTORS over 220 in all. below are some of my highlights from the show…….

Included in the Vintage tractor section was an area marked “Hedgerow Display, Items as found unrestored condition” I think all shows should have a section like this it was a refreshing change to the high gloss and paint jobs of a normal show.

Amongst them was this TE-F20, even in this state there are still some really useful parts I can see.

I’ve seen this Idea of having a small secure box on the back to carry items on the lower link arms. I have a spare 9 hole drawbar and I’ll be off to my local army surplus to get a box to bolt to it.

Here are some other pictures from the show.

I didn’t know they made a Diesel Porsche tractor!

Steam Power the order of the day

and the stream power came in all shapes and sizes.

I always thought it was the ferguson butterfly plough that was a revolution. Nothing is new as this example of a reversible horse plough will demonstrate.

But the crowning glory of the show for me was discovering this Ferguson Brown Serial number 1200, owned by Robert Irving. He let me sit on it and then took my picture. It was in great condition. I hope to add more pictures of this tractor under the photo section later. I also have more information about this tractor from the owner still to add.

fishboy Clothing, Penzance, Cornwall.

Finally I went back to a shop in Penzance whose slogan is “KEEP it RURAL” it sells very nice T-shirts, Jumpers and Hoodies with Rural pictures on them. A couple of years ago I bought a -shirt with a tractor print on it. It seems as though this has become a bit of a trademark and the range has been expanded.  I bought a hoodie in black  with a white tractor (only a fordson on this one) on it and a yellow land rover on a blue t-shirt. You can but online as Penzence is a long way to go. The website says they will also do any colour print on any colour T-shirt. A friend bought a pink combine harvester on a green T-shirt! No, he isn’t colour blind. speaking to the owner he said he will be expanding the range of prints very shortly.

I’ll be very interested in what new designs will be available.

www.fishboypz.co.k Buy T-shirts Jumpers Hoodies here

image by kind permission of fishboypz.co.uk

fishboy@
64 chapel St
Penzance
01736 331846

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What is Roy upto…..
Roy a friend of mine recently purchased a TE-D20 tractor and is in the process of making it mechanically sound.

Unwanted Hitch
A tow ball hitch was welded to the back of the tractor. Roy has spent many hours using an angle grinder to remove it.

Dashboard
The dashboard has been removed sanded, resprayed and re fitted. I think Roy used aerosol cans for this as it was a small item.

Seat
Next on the list was the seat. Roy wanted to buy a new seat but I convinced him that once cleaned up the old seat would be much better (the metal seems much thicker on the old seats to me). It has had a repair at some point in the past which all adds to the character. Besides you can add a seat cushion and you won’t know it’s been repaired. They all seem to go in the same place.

Before.

After.

Roy was complimented on the thickness of braze used to repair the seat. He didn’t repair it by the way.

Mudguards (not Fenders, I”m not American)
Finally Roy has been working on the mudguards this one seems to have turned into a bit of an epic. I think all he originally wanted to do was give them  a coat of paint and it’s turned into far more. First off he bought a compressor and paint gun to apply paint as I think the aerosol’s where costing a fortune.

With the mudguards off the tractor trumpet housings and brake drums looked untidy so he got to work on those at the same time.

Bonnet
Roy has now moved onto the bonnet. here you see it in it’s primer greay coat.

Recently the +50 year old Ferguson has been joined by a stable mate. I wonder if it will be still going in 50 years time?

……more from Roy soon I’m sure

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It’s been ages since I’ve posted anything. In fact I’ve got out of the habit and I am finding it quite tough to get back into it. I don’t think it helps that during the summer there are so many distractions, you find that time just slips through your fingers.

Wheel Centres
My dad came to visit a couple of weeks ago and it was great to show him how to drive the tractor, then let him have a drive around the block. Yes I know we look alike. Oh well at least I know what I’ll look like when I’m older.

From the photo above one thing was clear, the back wheels where shocking. At least all the other parts of the tractor have some grey paint on them.

So I decided to paint the back wheels. Currently I cannot afford new tyres, (£150 each + inner tubes) So I thought I’d make a start on the centres swapping the current set for another two I have. I spent a couple of days applying WD40 to the nuts to free them off.  They eventually all came off with a socket and  600mm long bar. There is a lot of rust.

I took the centres to Darren the shot blasters in Derby. Where as usual I had a fantastic survice. Anyone in the Derby area who needs shot blasting, I’d say take it there.

and this is the result…..

The funny colour on the inside is car body filler.  I hope to fill the wheels, sand and apply paint in order to get the wheels to a mirror finish you can see your face in. 2 o’clock final coats, 4 o’clock polished.

This is the template I’m working to.

At the 6 o’clock position is the painted only shot blasted face, 7 o’clock just shot blasted, 8 o’clock filled and sanded, 9 o’clock 2 pack primer (I’m not going to do this) 10 o’clock smoothed 2 pack,  12 o’clock primer coats and sanding, 2 o’clock final coats, 4 o’clock polished.

I saw this being demonstrated at the Newark tractor show in 2007.

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/Newark.htm

I will let you know how the progress is going.

Lucas PPG1 Side and Main Light Switch.

An eBay purchase I have picked up A Lucas P.P.G 1 light switch as included in the lucas (Cyclops)lighting Kit. It is a two stage switch for side and main lights. It isn’t exact a bit later year wise but as close as.

Trailer plug.

Small quantity of Parts.

I’ve found a company on the internet that will supply just one and two’s of the nuts and bolts. I also got some copper washers and electrical parts. I originally looked for the site as I was looking for a 1/2″ BSF bolt  (20TPI) to go in the Hydraulic  corner plugs. I want to make sure it is a 1/2″ BSF thread. As you’d expect they are expensive because it’s one and two off’s, but you can get small quanitities at short notice.

http://www.namrick.co.uk

Sheffield Tractors Number Plate Bracket.

If you’ve taken a look at the Local History page you’ll know I have an interest in tracing the history of my local Sheffield ferguson dealership from the 1950′s. As well as fitting a name plate to the tractors,  all the tractors that where road registered had a bracket made by Mr Charlesworth of Holland St. The bracket was of strip steel welded into a cross with the long end bent over and two holes drilled in to mount to the mudguard bracket, on the right hand mudguard in a similar fashion to the Lucas lighting kit numberplate holder   here are some photo’s

I went to a Farm sale a couple of weeks ago and an old pair of mudguard had one of the brackets fitted. The mudguards went for more than I was willing to pay but approaching the buyer he was willing to sell me the bracket.  The bracket is a present for a friend who has a Sheffield registered tractor but no number plate bracket.

Colins Visit.

I had a visit from Colin last week. http://www.myfergie.co.uk/ He has an impressive collection of tractors and implements. He was over in England collecting items he had bought on eBay. My heart goes out to his wife who came with him and has spent a lot of time driving around the country collecting things. It was great to meet him and next time we may get longer. Next time I’m over I’m definitly going to visit him. A lot more interesting than my small garage.

Steering Seal Post

Jeff at Holland Brand Tractors has posted a fabulous article on replacing the steering box seals. I thought you had to remove the dashboard and all the steering before you could replace them. I do know as an alternative you can grind off the top part of the steering arms and the seals will them slide over. I’ve seen a couple of tractors that have been done like this and for me this isn’t an option. I’ve spent so much time restoring the engine properly I have to continue with the rest of the tractor. I don’t like the look of this ground method either.

http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_trackback/4255058

I see now looking at the Holland Brand Workshop site that this was to be Jeff’s last post. Jeff has now left Holland Brand Workshops. They don’t seem to have much luck at that place. May be a name change would be a good Idea?

As an outsider I have no idea what went on within the company, I don’t really want to. I do know Ferguson tractor restoration has lost a good “engineer1260″ I hope Jeff isn’t lost to tractor  restoration as he is too good. Jeff if you do read this I’d love you to write some posts for this site. All the best in what you do in the future.

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Hi Geoff,
First of all are you a member of FoFH? www.fofh.co.uk. If you are then this is exactly the question you could have asked in the forum. but if you’re not I’ll ask the good people who look at this website if they can help.

Have you tried Patrick at Fergiland.com he may have the parts?

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A couple of interesting links to mention to you today.

Electronics Manual

The first is a Finish site where I have found a whole ferguson Tractor manual available for download. It is 46MB in size and over 460 pages. It is similar to an electronic copy I have and print out to take into the workshop to stop my paper original copy getting covered in grease and oil.

http://www.ferguson-talli.net/FE-20.php and the item to download is “FE 20 TE Service Manual”

Pictures Available

I am trying to create an online picture resource of interesting ferguson pictures. It would be useful to have a pictorial representation of an original ferguson item to check yours against, remember where to put so and so. The hope is I will add more as Time goes by. If you have a set of photo’s you think others would be interested in then please get in touch and if suitable I will get them added. I hope soon to add, 2 furrow plough, TE-F20 engine rebuild and dismantle.

Two are available so far.
1. Ferguson 3 Ton Trailer –  a friend is rebuilding his 3 Ton Trailer and I thought it would be a good idea to take some pics along the way.

2. Ferguson TE-F20 Engine – after completing the rebuild of the engine I just wanted to add some pictures of it to the web. If there is something not right with the way it looks please tell me.

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Well the title isn’t exactly right. It’s amazing how many other items where supplied as part of a new ferguson 3ton trailer delivery. I now have everything, except the trailer. By that I mean all the many items supplied with the trailer that where actually attached to the tractor so you can lift, pull and tip your MK2  3ton  trailer. I even have the instruction book.

The original manual measured 7 1/2″ x 5 1/2″  and consisted of 23 pages

Take a look at these diagrams from the original 3ton trailer manual.

Now take a look at these  pictures I took of my tractor, (below). I have gathered these items together over a period of several years. Trying to buy them all at once can prove expensive. Recently the autohitch part has been fetching very high prices on the internet and at auctions. Recently the tipping pipe has also seen prices double or tripple for an off tractor example. I believe as people have got hold of the autohitch they are now looking for the pipe.  The last piece of the set I aquired was the tipper pipe that connects from the tractors hyrdaulic pump  to the trailers hydraulic ram via a hose to raise and lower the trailers body.  I swapped one of my number plate holders with Roy for the pipe supplied with his tractor. A none tipping trailer was also available which didn’t need the tipper pipe.

Tipper pipe showing the end that connects to the trailers flexible hose.

Connection of tipper pipe to the back corner of the tractor’s hyrdaulic pump. The thread needed to connect to the tractor is listed in ferguson manual as two sizes, a: 1/2″ BSF at 16 threads per inch (TPI), b: 1/2″ UNF which has 20 TPI.

The combination of the Auto hitch I have is unusual. the t-bar (lying in the floor in the middle) is from a TE-20. You can tell this as it has the destinctive button shape half way along used to engage the latch which when pressed lowers the hitch. Or when raised locks the hitch in the up carrying position.  The hook (hanging down from the tractor) is from and later FE/MF35 it was fatter than the skinnier TE-20. I have a TE-20 hook but prefer the later fatter type.

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Hi Tim,

Had the tractor out and running this enabled me to power wash it. This removed grease plus loose paint.

Roy

A Proper tractor at work. Shame it’s Green and Yellow!

Makeshift  tool for the valve spring

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Roy has been working away on his tractor and has posted.

It appears the ball hitch on the back of the tractor is welded onto the back housing. Hopefully a bit of careful angle grinding should get it off.

/images/2009_06_11/BallHitch.JPG

You appear to have cracked the problem re tick over, Well done. Imanaged to work on the tractor removing the broken valve spring etc, I rang Gordon whom I purchased the tractor from and he will be dropping off the two front wheels in the near future. The existing ones are not correct and extra ones that are part of the deal, more parts have arrived air filter, hoses, ign warning light etc. The REPLACEMENT valve spring was under £4.00 from SILVER FOX SPARES, also a chrome nut and washer for the steering wheel will look better.

I have received the doc from the DVLA EDO 862 is now registered to me. HURRAH. Picture of some parts note that the ign warning light has a chrome bezel most now are black not original! Plus the top link is in good condition.

Roy.

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Visit to:  
Museum of Rural Life Scotland, Kittochside, East Kilbride, Scotland G76 9HR
Date: 9th May 2009
Reviewed By: John Morris

 Here is my report on the museum, definatly worth a visit if you are in the area, you can editor publish which bits or my photos as you like.The museum is listed  on the FOFH web site

The museum is run by the Scotish National Trust and is Free to all trust
members. When you first arrive you see the implements outside,

and then the T20 in the chidrens play area

 bit of a shame really.The main Farm Buildings are about half a mile away up the hill but trailor ride lifts are avaiable. These are a 1950s farm house and buildings interesting in their own right.In the yard was a working T20

and round the back the main working tractors a MF65 and a MF35

Inside the museum building itself there was an imacculate Ferguson Brown and a MF Combine.

 The main area of tractors were crammed in tightly and difficult to photograph. These included a Ford Ferguson T20 and a plough as well as locally made Nuffields and other makes.Finally it has the famous Glasgow Tractor.

John Morris

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I have found the problem that made the tractor tick over at a too higher speed. Whilst trying to adjust the tick over stop position I noticed which ever way I turned the screw it had no effect on the throttle lever on the dash. And the reason for this, the screw was never reached by the link rod from the dash as it was to short.

You can clearly see in circle 1 that the lever does not touch the stop.

 first tried to adjust linkage 3 but there is new screw to adjust top or bottom. So then I gave item 2 four turns and now when moving the throttle it reaches the stop.

I thought this one was going to run and run. I still haven’t fired the tractor up to test it as it was late again by the time I’d finish and I don’t think the neighbours would approve of the noise so late.

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Last friday I spent the evening setting the spill timing on the tractor. I thought I’d have to dismantle most of it to do this. But thanks to a question asked on the FoFH Forum I had a fantastic reply from Ian Moignard and Raoul le M which after checking with them I have been allowed to reproduce here for you all to enjoy. It has taken some time to put this answer together and I thank Ian and Raoul.

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/spill-timing-te-f20/

It was late last friday night when I’d finished setting the spill timing so I didn’t get chance to test it until Saturday morning. It’s running 200% better with no black smoke.

The tick over speed is still high the spill timing has not sorted this out. One thing that was mentioned was a faulty Diaphragm. So that was the next thing I checked in the week.

After checking (well I think I checked it correctly as the Ferguson Repair Manual isn’t clear) The Diaphragm is OK with no holes, even a pin hole in the Diaphragm can affect the tick over speed. So the next thing is setting the tick over speed manually at the air intake point.

I’ll keep you posted but this one could run and run. I might have got to the bottom of it by christmas!

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Just after his 70th birthday I think my friend Roy is having a mid life crisis!
He’s bought himself a Ferguson TE-D20 tractor. (TED 219332) born 22/09/1951.
Roy’s report on his purchase.

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Hi John,
I’m glad you like the site.
Please send a report and photo’s of the Heritage museum. I’m sure lots of others would be interested in your view.

Yes I will be making a timing disc. I have access to a (CAD)Computer Aided design package. I’ll be adding the disc as a download for you all to make your own. it’s a bit like blue peter here!

I will be do documenting everything I can john it’s an essential part of the website.

To Do

• Make template for timing (30BTDC (hole in flywheel) 32BTDC spill timing point, 0TDC (just as a check for the valve timing)
• Ask Holland brand workshops if they have a number one port swan neck I can borrow for the pump.
• find a hexagon spanner to undo the nuts on the front of the pump.
• Read the Manual agin and again.
• Find some time when I can do it.

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I hope you are all well,
The tractor has been the last thing on my mind just lately. We’ve had our son’s first birthday, I’ve been to Munich on business and next week I’m off to the Scottish island of Jura to run up and down the hills for 14 miles.

I don’t know when I am going to schedule some time to look at the timing, which still seems very daunting to me.

Funny I never thought of myself as being an inspiration to anyone so this email was a nice surprise. I’ve had this great email from Geoff who also donated £10 which will keep the website up and running for a month for everyone to enjoy. Thanks Geoff.

I was starting to well up by the end of your email. Then I got to the part about wind whistling through my hair. Geoff, I don’t have any hair! not to worry, I’ve never had any hair! Well once upon a time I must have. I’m only joking Geoff, Its nice to see all my friends loosing there hair now as well and getting really paranoid about it. I do like to tease them. Anyway back onto the subject of tractors, here is Geoff’s letter

Geoff, I took the pump out of my tractor to drain the green sludge out of it (green sludge was one hydraulic fluid) With the pump cleaned and refitted and new hydraulic fluid it’s been great ever since.

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I took the tractor out for a first proper run.
I was disappointed. It isn’t running correctly, by that I mean after you have started the tractor it is reving very highly and I am unable to get it to tick over. There is a lack of power as I move the throttle lever down whilst driving along. The first thought was to change the length of the control rod that come from the throttle on the dashboard to the pump. This didn’t work and even screwing in the rod to its shortest position did not make the tractor tick over any slower.
At this point I reached for help in the form of a question to the FoFH Forum. (If you do any tinkering with your ferguson tractor and you’re not a member , you should be!)
The feedback I got all points to the spill timing as the point to start. Another problem the tractor is having is the black soot or smoke from the exhaust. Again black smoke represents a timing issue.
This seemed the most comprehensive list from a user called Jón

I’m overwhelmed by the method to set the timing. I didn’t pay that much attention to this when rebuilding so I don’t think I’ve done it correctly as well as the fact I have to remove the front axle, remove the timing cover and the rocker cover.
I find the Ferguson User Manual confusing to follow to set the spill timing. Again I asked on the forum and had this very detailed response from René.

Now I’m sure if someone showed me how to do this it would be really easy, but to follow the instructions I just can’t imagine it and I think that’s half the battle. It just seems really complicated. Can someone use the pipe from injector 1 as the “swan neck” pipe?

Full FoFH Tick Over Forum transcript here

Read Geoff’s Spill Timing article here lots of images but could do with more. It seems easier to follow with pictures.
http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2008/9/10/3876652.html

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Thanks again mike,
Yes I’ve been in the garage stopping the leaks from the fuel and oil pipes. I think I’ve got it sorted now.
I love that last picture of the ploughs outside the croft. Very staged but very aesthetic.
I hope you get the computer working. I bought a Machintosh (Mac) computer and a time capsule backup. I can go back over a year to find a file. It’s also great for web edition and movie editing.
I notice your fergie plough in the first picture is a Sherman (Ford Ferguson) plough as it has the cast top section that connects to the top link. I later models this was 4 bent pieces of metal.

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With the engine working the next step was to take the tractor out. I managed onto the front lawn and back. See the movie here of me putting the tractor away.

Whilst out on the front lawn I took some photos of the assembled tractor. I think it looks great. I can now notice even more all the items that have not been painted they look so scruffy! So the next job is to have a go at the rest of the tractor starting with the back wheels.

Mike’s email( Assorted Gubbins) made me chuckle especially the part about fixing all the little faulty. I have a leak from the out port of the fuel lift pump (fixed with PTFE tape). The bleed screw is also leaking diesel from the seal( I think I have stripped the thread on the alloy body).

The idle speed of the engine is also faster than I think it should be. The remerdy for this is to shorten the control linkage between pump and throttle. I have a lot of black smoke or soot coming out of the exhaust. This could be a timing issue or burning off of the oil used to lubricate everything whilst the tractor was being assembled. I am going to leave it to see if it reduces and maybe look at setting the spill timing again. A diferent method must now be used to do this as the engine is now a lot more assembled than the last time I set the timing.

I haven’t kept a complete record of all the costs involved in the rebuild. But I have been asked to put together some accounts for the work so I will do my best. I have no idea of the number of hours it’s taken nor would I be able to guess. I also want to put together a help document for anyone thinking of restoring there tractor.

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I just want to say a big thank you to everyone who was helped with this engine restoration, to Fred an Roy for there time, to you lot for the support emails. The biggest thank you goes to my wife for putting up with me disappearing into the garage at every opportunity. 

Oh and the reason the tractor stops after 4:30 is I forgot to turn the fuel tap on!

Now it’s working it’s all a bit of an anti climax! What will I do now? All those jobs around the house that I haven’t done for the past 6 months. Now it’s time to get out and use it. (On light duties for 20 hours, the I need to reset the tappets.)

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Tonight I  speak to Colin Taylor, he phoned from Ireland to have a chat the first time we have ever spoke in about 2 years of sending emails to one another.  After speaking to him I was spurred on to want to get the tractor running. So after fitting the bonnet I had a go at strting! Before attempting anything I got the fuel through the system and the removal of all the air in the system. I followed the instructions in the TE-F20 instruction book of which I have an original copy. With the fuel through to the CAV injection pump it was time to have a go at starting!

(5mins long abridged from 25mins long)

As you can see it didn’t start before I had flattened the battery. I could not understand why, fuel was getting all the way to the injectors, and then I realised I’d left the stop in. So the engine was never going to start. Now it was to late, The battery was flat and did not have enough power to turn the engine over.
Oh well I’ll put the battery on charge and have anther go tomorrow. It should just start first time tomorrow now I know what to do. There is one good thing to all this, the oil pump has been working and should have pumped oil all around the engine to  allthe major bearing surfaces. Watch this space for some developments soon.

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Thanks Again Mike.
Yes I am very proud of my FT57 lamp I’ve been waiting a long time to find one as the right price. Now all I need to do is find a pair of fold out side lights. Does anyone have a set they would sell?
I’m coming round to the idea of leaving the light in chrome.I just don’t think I bring myself to spray paint it!

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The readers of this blog are great.
What a paint job. I see once the tractor had a lighting kit? I’m looking forward to the rest of your travel posts.

Thanks for emailing in.

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I am the very proud owner of a FT57  a 7″ diameter headlamp as fitted to the bonnet of Ferguson Tractor.

You can see it here with the bracket attached to the base. This bracket attaches to the front of the bonnet.

The light looks Fab in chrome but it should be grey! I just don’t know I can bring myself to paint it.

How did I come to own the light. I had an email from a reader Nick Lovell. He got in touch asking if one of the readers would be interested in the lamp. Unfortunately the lamp advert never made it for you lot to think about buying as I bought it. I was particularly impressed with Nick’s outlook. He didn’t want to sell the item on eBay as he didn’t want it to go to the highest bidder but someone who would appreciate it. I hope I can do that Nick.  Nick is setting up a website to sell vintage car parts. He says its a pass time and the money isn’t the main reason for doing it. “  prefer to put the right part on the correct vehicle and as long as I cover my costs, thats fine as this is a hobby mainly and gives me satisfaction when I can achieve that.”

Nicks website  www.heglo.co.uk I’ve asked him to get in touch if he has any other lighting items suitable for a Ferguson.

Thanks Nick.

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Only the fuel tank to add on and bleed through. Connect the exhaust, and check all the bolts, check it all looks right, check i haven’t missed anything. The radiator is full of water and holding with the new hoses.

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Thank you.
I recommend getting the DVD from www.vintagetractorengineer.com it shows you step by step how to dismantle and reassemble the 23C engine.

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The radiator and front axle have now been added. it’s going together quite quickly now, but not quickly enough I want to be driving it. Nothing done to the radiator. I’m going to paint it later. Likewise with the front axles (to be added yet)

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Busy so not much posted just some pics and a movie! startup is getting very close.

By turning the engine over I hope to circulate oil around the engine before startup.

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It’s time to put some oil into the tractor’s engine.

It’s nearly time to put some oil into the tractor’s engine. 12 pints for a diesel engine sump, 3/4 pint for the Air Cleaner Bowl, and some oil for the reservour in the C.A.V. pump

So what oil do I put in the tractor? I know this is always a great topic for debate on any forum or discussion on tractors,  so here goes.

In the TEF-20 Instruction Manual that was originally supplied with the tractor there is a table showing types of engine oil to use and manufacturers and their products.

The key to the chart is temperature.  The temperature of the ambient air where you live in my case the UK or The British Isles. For the UK the recommendation is to have S.A.E 20 oil in the winter (0°C-10°C) and a S.A.E. 30 grade oil in the summer (10°C-30°C).  When the tractor was new oil was only available with these single grades or temperature ranges. This means to get the best result you should change the oil between winter and summer as the outside air temperature changes.

 Then someone had the bright idea of combining the two grades of oil into one called a multi grade oil. This gives you the opposite to what you’d expect. It gives you an oil which is thinner in the winter at startup when the oil should be colder and more viscous or sticky and a thicker oil in the summer at startup when the oil should be thinner as it is hotter outside. How does the oil achieve this? Additives in the oil mean it can be used over a range of temperatures. The hotter it gets the thicker it gets. This goes against normal principles that oil gets thinner the hotter it gets.

So I bought  20W-50 Multi grade oil. It has a 20 SAE value in the Winter and up to 50 SAE value in the summer.

I have also added this oil to the CAV diesel pump as recommended.

So now I’ve got the oil into the engine how am I going to get it to circulate around the engine before I start it up is another issue.

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I haven’t posted anything for a while, not because I haven’t been busy, on the contrary I’ve been too busy to post.  After masking the back of the engine, dashboard, gearbox I got on with the task of priming and final coats of paint on the engine block.
I’m so pleased with the results I’ve included a lot of pictures.

Easter is just around the corner and I’m really pushing to get it running. The Ferguson paint I’ve used can be sprayed over within 4 hours of applying the first coat otherwise it has to be left 4 days before it can be painted again. Just one more top coat on the engine then I can start reassembling the front axle assembly, all parts of which have been painted

I’m going to paint the tank, bonnet and radiator at a later stage.

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I had a great surprise on Saturday. About lunch time there was a knock on the door It was Jim who had driven over to show me how he was progressing with the mudguards on his TE-D20. The first couple of posts on this new site  (if you follow them back or click on the link on the right TE-D20) will take you to the posts all about Jim’s tractor. Roy another friend fixed Jim’s tractor for him after it hadn’t run for 12 years!

Well it was looking great and was running which is more than I can say for mine! He had done a really good job with the mudguards Following Jeff’s instructions from the Holland Brand website on fitting fenders. 

Jeff’s fender article

I will also be following this article when it comes to fitting my mudguard skins. I will me looking for imperial bolts though!

I digress, here are some pictures of Jims tractor outside my house and also a movie of him driving off. The movie would have been longer and shown him starting the tractor but I forgot to press the record button. Oh well. It’s sounding great. I’m really warming to the petrol model.

Th bonnet is blue as this tractor was originally owned by a sports ground and that is the team colours.

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There is so much going on at the moment and not enough time to do it all. So I’ve got a roundup of a couple of items I’m tinking aboout.

Airfix
The Airfix kit I came across whilst looking through eBay sold for a staggering £598.88 Wow, you really could buy a tractor or two for that money. This quarters classic Massey has an article about a gentleman who bough two TE-D20 tractors for £230 bargain.

Donations
A big thank you to Jim and Jerry who have made large donations to the ploughmyfield website by clicking on the button on the right. Thank you very much. Your donations will pay for the server space for the site for 2 months.

Shot blasting
The mystery blaster turned out to be a man called Darren Willis.  I’m down in Derby this week and he is kindly shot blasting some more items for me. Radius arms, cradle for fromt axle, front axle, fan blade, air intake tube are all having the paint stripped from them. I’m picking them up tomorrow so etch primer tomorrow night then fitting on Thursday! 

Painting
I’ve added a final coat of Ferguson grey to the starter motor before fitting it tomorrow night. I have to say it looks Fab. I can’t wait until it’s all been painted.

I have to say it looks even better in real life. The grey is a lot darker and more shiney. I’ve also sprayed around the back of the block where the starter is positioned as there is no way I will get in once the start has been bolted on.

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Did you know that Airfix’s first model want’s a spitfire or a hurricane but a tractor! A ferguson TE-20 tractor to be precise.

This one has come up on eBay with 4 days to go it currently stands at £230 ( almost as much as a real one) I wonder how much it will go for? Here is the link so you can keep an eye on it.

eBay Airfix Ferguson Tractor Kit

Here is the sellers information:

• Plastic construction kit of the Ferguson TE tractor made by Airfix. 1/20 Scale.
• This was the very first Airfix kit and made in the 50′s in England.
• The kit offered here, is a true collectors dream. All the components are present, even the tiny box with small parts is still sealed and never opened!
• Complete with original instructions and translation in Swedish!
• NOTE: A version which I’ve never seen before, all the parts are molded in blue plastic and tires are cream colored rubber!

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The restoration is coming on well. I still don’t get as much time working on the tractor as I’d like, but that’s life. I’m just glad I have a tractor and I can work on it in a garage.

I have fitted the fuel pump after a total strip down clean out and check over. It was very dirty inside. Not all TE-F20′s had  a lift pump. The early models did not, there two fuel filters where also fitted in parallel (fuel passed through one or the other). Then in production the engine block casting was changed to include a couple of mounting screws for the pump and a hole into the engine  to attach a lever from the back of the  pump to the cam shaft on the inside.  I have seen a transitional stage where the hole  and mounting studs for the pump are in place in the block  but there is a  blanking plate over it. The filters are still in parallel. Once the pump was added the filters where changed to series (running through one then the other). I assume the additional pressure from the pump meant there was enough force to pass through one filter then the other. 

Disappointingly I have a rubber tube taking fuel from the main tank to the  pump. There was a secondary fuel tank or Auxiliary tank fitted on TE-F’s I have one but have never used it. I know they get full of a green sludge. With mine it’s down to a lack of correct pipe’s. If anyone out there has a spare solid pipe that goes from the Auxiliary tank to pump I’d be interested. I am also missing the second half of the pipe that goes into the back of the Auxiliary tank from the main one. 

I think I also need to take the rest of the paint off the fuel injector pump and spray it properly. It was my intension to mask it off whilst spraying the rest of the tractor.  I can see it being tricky to do a good job of masking it. It will also look rough when all the rest of the tractor is painted.

The tractor in this picture looks much better then the one in the post “Reference”below. That picture was taken before the strip down. The decompression lever at the front of the engine has now been added and the water pump housing as well as the dynamo the. The inlet and exhaust manifold holes in the block have been masked to stop paint getting in whilst painting.

I’ve started work on the starter motor. I have removed layers of mud and soil before I can clean the surface of the metal. In the picture I’ve removed the switch and solenoid from the top of the starter. I don’t intend to do anything with the internals of the motor just check the brushes are  clean and lots of material on them. The starter has always worked very well so no need to fix it.

 And below the condition of the starter when it was removed from the tractor. I intend to paint it grey the same as all the other parts. I have seen the started and dynamo painted black on some restored tractors as black was the colour Lucas originally supplied them. If you had a replacement then maybe there wasn’t chance to  paint the replacement  when fitted. Hence why some people prefer them in black not grey.

And finally I’ve got the front axle support frame back from a friend who was welding it for me. It looks great. Now it has to be stripped and painted like everything else.

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Front Dynamo Decompression Assembly

I can’t stress enough how important it is to take loads of photo’s at every stage of the process of restoration. With digital cameras now costing less than £50  (www.ebuyer.com)there is no excuse to not be snapping away. I try to take pictures of everything, you never know when they are going to come in useful. Take the picture above, I’ve dismantled the front decompression assembly and I can’t remember how it goes back together. Now with the aid of the photo I can. I can also see the position of the cover over the dynamo brushes and which side the bracket goes that attaches to the top of the dynamo to adjust tension. Photo’s Priceless!

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