* MIL Loader Fitting

Posted on March 15th, 2010 by ploughmyfield.


Fitting a Midland Industries Limited (MIL) Model H Loader to a Ferguson tractor.

So this is what it should look like when it’s all assembled and working.

This fine axample of a MIL loader belongs to James at Rhodds’s Farm. It is fitted to a TE-F20. Speaking to James he bought the tractor with the loader already attached. This is the best way to buy a loader in my opinion as all the parts should be there.

Beamish Museum have bought a MIL Loader.

The idea is to make the Ferguson tractor they have more useful by fitting the loader to it.  The Ferguson TE-A20 tractor they have although converted to TVO has an engine built by the Standard motor company,  this is important as you will find out later.

So I went up to Durham to look at the pieces they have and see if the loader could be assembled. Before I went up north I looked on the internet for an instruction manual, I could not find one.  So the helpful people on the FOFH forum came to my rescue.

I was kindly sent  this 4 page document which after a little reading you will see gives you all the information needed. Most interesting was the parts list and exploded diagram. Many thanks to Gary Downes who owns the original document and very kindly has allowed me to have this downloadable copy on this page.

MIL Loader Manual

Initial investigations

With all the parts laid out on the floor in the shed I could see not all the parts where right. I forgot to take any more pictures of the MIL loader so you’ll have to take my work for it. From the diagram below you will see items 73, 74 where included in the loader. Now looking further these items are for a Diesel model. I was trying to fit this to a petrol/TVO and should be using items 5, 6.

Also from the parts I had items 30, 31.  These brackets where home made and I couldn’t make them fit the tractor. Maybe the loader was originally fitted to a Diesel as the items 30, 31 would have been replaced by 85, 86 for the diesel model.

I also needed :

4 longer bolts (5/8″ UNF  x 6 1/2″  Long) to attach the frame to the trumpet housing and then the mudguards on top.

4 bolts (5/8″ UNF  x 3 1/2″ Long) to attach the brackets to the front of the engine.

So with limited tools available I didn’t do much that day other than, start the tractor up and run it for a bit then inflate a flat front tyre.

First task then was to make up some brackets item 30, 31 to fit to the tractor. This didn’t prove too difficult and I’d like to thank Bob Nix for the dimensions to make the brackets.

I’ve produced a drawing here so anyone else wanting to make some can. It should be pretty self explanatory.

Download as PDF

Here again courtesy of Bob Nix is a picture of what the brackets and spacer look like in place.

I still have  more info to add to this page and need to sort out……….

The control valve isn’t original on the beamish tractor (it’s Painted Blue and has a lever instead of a handle) and I don’t have a connector to screw into the front corner of the hydraulics housing onthe tractor.

So this is what the original valve, pipework and connector all look like. Thanks here to Chrostopher Smith for supplying these photo’s. He just happened to have an old MIL loader lying around that he had removed form a TE-D20 he was restoring and kindly offered to take some pictures for this article. Thanks Christopher.

Here you see the Valve with shut off tap that bolts in front of the seat. the pipe attached goes down the side of the gearbox casing to the front corner of the hydraulic pump.

This view shows an up close view of the valve and bracket. it is slotted so you don’t have to completely remove the bolts holding the casings together. just slacken the bolts slot in the bracket then tighten them up. Very well thought about.

Another shot of the valve from the side.

And here is the connector that screws into the tractor’s Hydraulics.

Christopher Thinks the thread is 1/2″ BSF. I’ll confirm this once I have a connector.

I need to buy some 5/8″ UNF bolts for the mudguards and also to attach the front brackets in place. I also need to see if the Diesel brackets items 73,74 will work on a TE-A 20 engine. I’ll keep you all posted. please feel free to add comments the more the better.

Fitting The Loader at Beamish

First Part

Second Part

Additional Items Needed:

You will also need a T-Bar for the back of your tractor. The T-Bar locks the lower link arms and stops them from reaching there maximum height. This has a knock on effect of not then allowing the hydraulics inside the tractor to dump the fluid under pressure back into the reservoir and the pressurised fluid passes up into the MIL valve mounted in front of the drivers seat.

It is also a good idea to have a heavy load attached to the back of the tractor to stop the back end from lifting. I found on the Grey Fergie Forum these plans to make an original ferguson concrete block. you will need to supply the steel hook shape and the concrete after making the box.

Additional Information From:

http://www.rhoddssfarm.co.uk/loader.htm James’s MIL Loader page, Lots of great pics. I’d love to see more pictures of the control valve and closer on how the frame is fixed in place.

http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2009/5/28/4200242.html The team at Holland Brand Workshops did some work on a MIL loader and made a few modification check it out here.

http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2009/6/12/4219877.html The finished loader

Website Feebback:

Hi Tim, apologies for not getting to this sooner, but things are a bit silly here. I have sent some pics from when I fitted the loader, as you will see the front brackets fitted on without spacers but I had to grind the edges of the engine mounts because the angle iron bracket wouldn’t fit square. I have also shown the difference between the 2 sets of rams I have, and have also included a pic of an unknown linkage that came with some stabiliser arms and other stuff. Finally I have sent some pics of the pins, I have some measurements for the pins but they are on a scruffy piece of paper so I will sort that out and forward them too, regards Steve

Mil Loader Pins

Mil Loader Pins

Mil Loader Bracket Fitting

Mil Loader Bracket Fitting

Mil Loader Rams

Mil Loader Rams

Mil Loader Rams
And Finally the mystery bracket. Leave a comment if you think you know what it is. I thought maybe Mil’s version of the T-Bar to lock the lower link arms below top position?
Mystery Bracket



16 Responses to “MIL Loader Fitting”

  1. Gary Downes Says:
    March 28th, 2010 at 5:23 pm

    I have no problem with you using the mill loader fitting instructions(I have the original) which I have emailed to a few people on the FOFH forum but as you have put everybody elses name who have helped you may wish to add my name as your forum gives the impression you own this
    I have if you know anybody who wants it the future the fitting nstructions fr the hornraulic as well

    All the best Gary

  2. ploughmyfield Says:
    March 28th, 2010 at 7:56 pm

    Hi Gary,

    First my sincere apologies for not giving you the credit you truly deserve. Without people like you this site would be nothing.
    I think the confusion came as I had the same pages sent by Bob Nix from the forum. You must have sent a copy to him. I did not fully appreciate it was your original copy.

    I have updated the website and hope it meets with your approval.

    I would not want to upset the relationship I have built up with contributing fellow enthusiasts as the website would be a poorer site.

    Regards

    Tim

    p.s. a hydraulics manual for what?

  3. Scott Stephenson Says:
    May 15th, 2010 at 7:00 pm

    Excellent page… But i’ve just fitted a MIL Loader to a TED 20 and the damn thing won’t push the MIL Loader up unless the rear lift arms are down…. So if you put some weight on the rear lift arms… it raises! But as soon as the rear MIL Loader has lifted to full height the rear lift arms push up and then the MIL loader looses pressure. I put a draw bar and stays on the rear lift arms and it’s just bent them once it finished raising the lift arms at the rear… Any thoughts?

  4. ploughmyfield Says:
    May 16th, 2010 at 11:39 am

    It sound as though all is working correctly you just forgot one thing. You need a t-bar to make the arms lift. The t-bar stops the lower link arms from lifting fully. If the link arms reach the fully raised position the hydraulic fluid is dumped out back to the tank and no pressure will ever be raised.
    A drawbar and stays is not strong enough to hold the arms. I hope this helps

  5. john Says:
    July 19th, 2010 at 8:24 pm

    I have been fitting a MIL loader on a friends TED20 today and found that the front brackets fitted straight on without the spacers shown in one of the pictures (we did not have any with the loader supplied) so i cannot see what advantage they give you if fitted, surely, a stronger attachment is given without them, i noticed also that the curved section is adjustable if you need to move them backwards or forwards to line up with the engine bracket,if i could workout how to upload a picture i can show you the finished loader.Regards John.

  6. Steve Says:
    August 24th, 2010 at 11:26 pm

    Hi there this has been very informative and a great help. The T bar you refer to is this the one shown on the trailer page? and is the hyraulic take off achievable on a te20 continental engined fergie? I understand the early pumps only go to 1,500psi as opposed to 2,000psi on the later ones, would this pose a problem? thanks Steve

  7. Tom the Hamster Says:
    October 29th, 2010 at 6:50 pm

    ive fitted one of a ted20 to a tef and you have to mod the front brackets to go round the oil fillter housing and things all in all not a bad thing to fit

  8. Roger Says:
    February 18th, 2012 at 2:52 pm

    Hi. I watched Your youtube films about assemblig the MIL loader to Your Ferguson. Last autumn I bought a MIL type F3 loader for my Volvo 230 “Viktor”. Unfortunately it was loaded, transported and unloaded in almost total darkness so I haven’t reaaly yet been able to inspect what I bought. According to the guy that sold it to me all parts should be there. Now it’s covered by snow so I´m still not able to look at it. (Yes, the rams are inside not out in the snow…) Now to my question: Is it any chance to get more information about my loader in any way from Britain? As You understand it will be assambeled to the “Viktor” as soon as the spring arrives and it would be nice to know more about it to be able to tell interested people more about the history. I’ve also got a Volvo T22 1948 and in our village there is a Museum that shows farming equipment, so on our island there is a great interest in tractors. In fact I also own 2 Jaguar Cars, one 1990 XJ40 Sovereign and one 1991 XJ6 (+ my 1970 FIAT 850 Special)
    BR
    Roger, Störlinge Borgholm Öland Sweden.

  9. Patrick Says:
    February 27th, 2012 at 2:01 pm

    Hi, fantastic site – well done. I am fitting a MIL loader to my diesel TEF-20 but and in a similar position to you: I dont have the front brackets and need to make some up. I don’t suppose you have any photos of the 2 sets of front brackets or the diemensions?

    Cheers

    Patrick

  10. Jon Says:
    March 14th, 2012 at 8:56 pm

    Hi, does anyone know roughly what the lift capacity of a mil loader on a TE20 is?
    Cheers, Jon.

  11. Guy Says:
    October 10th, 2012 at 2:30 pm

    Recently bought a TE20 with MIL loader fitted. I’m losing a lot of hydraulic fluid out of one of the pistons. I’m assuming a piston seal has perished and therefore leaking. Any idea of where to get new seals from? Silver fox tractors do seal repair kits for banana loaders. Do you think this will be compatable?

  12. ploughmyfield Says:
    October 10th, 2012 at 11:01 pm

    Hi Guy,
    Thanks for getting in touch. No I don’t think the Banana loader kit will fit. If you can find a local Seal/ Bearing supplier take the dismantled and cleaned up piston in and see what they say. You did see the parts list to download on the MIL loader page? was it any help. look for some more rams on eBay?

  13. Ian goodhead Says:
    October 23rd, 2012 at 9:07 pm

    Hi fitted a Mil to my t 20 the one ram leaked. I found a place in Coventry to re seal the ram, not cheap but great job

  14. James Coomer Says:
    May 15th, 2013 at 2:22 pm

    Hi,

    Wouldn’t it be great to have the link box fitted at the back as well as having the front loader on? That’s what I’d like to do, but I need to find another way of locking the rear hydraulics whilst the link box is on…

Trackback URI | Comments RSS

Leave a Reply



+ 4 = eleven

Current Hot Topics

2 Furrow plough 3 Ton Trailer 5A-EE-B20 9S-KE-20 A-TE-59 A-TE-61 A-TE-90 Ashover Autohitch Brakes Britool Ferguson Brown Ferguson Club Ferguson Trailer FoFH Footplates Instruction Lighting List Lucas Manual Mower Newark Newby Norton Original Plough Plough Match Restoration Roy Show Spanner T-JE-A20 TE-F20 TEA-20 TED-20 TEF-20 The Ferguson Club toolbox Tool Box Tool kit Tools Top Link Tractor Jack Transport Box

Recent Pictures

Hover over to view images. Click to show bigger.

Pages

Ploughing:

Plough - Ferguson
Plough - Match

Tractors:

TEF-20
FE35

Implements:

10-AE-28, 2 Furrow Plough
A-LE-A20 Cordwood Saw
5A-EE-B20 Rear Mounted Mower
C-UE-21 Crane
T-JE-A20 Transport Box
S9-KE-20, Spring Tine Cultivator - to be added

Accessories:

Ferguson Spanner
A-TE-61 Hinged Seat and Feetrests
A-TE-66 Belt Pulley
A-TE-70 Tractor Jack
A-TE-78 Dual Wheel Kit
A-TE-87 Lighting Kit, Full
A-TE-A90 Pick Up Hitch - to be added
Ferguson Accessory List

Events:

Newark Tractor Show 2010
Newark Tractor Show 2007
Donegal Holiday 2008
Beamish, Steam Day 2007
FoFH Day 2004

Dealers:

Samuel Wilson & Son, Ltd (Sheffield)
John I. Fearn (Agricultural) Ltd

Info:

Technical
Downloads
Links
My YouTube Video's

Old Ploughmyfield Web Pages:

Previous Index 7
Previous Index 6
Previous Index 5
Previous Index 4
Previous Index 3
Previous Index 2
Previous Index 1

Old Pictures:

Initial Pictures
First Pictures
Second Pictures
Third Pictures
Fourth Pictures
Fifth Pictures