Posted on July 27th, 2011 by ploughmyfield.
This page follows on from my first investigation. http://www.ploughmyfield.com/tag/brakes/
Before the iminent arrival of my second child and I have no spare time I thought this is a job I should complete now. Time to fix the oil seal leaking and the brakes not fully working. I don’t want to paint the rims or add new tyres until the oil leak is fixed
- Strip down the tractors brakes and half shaft on the Right Hand side.
- Send the brakes away for re lining.
- asses what parts will need to be replaced.
Home for the next week. A big thank you to Sheffields Premier Electricial for the use of the corner of his Yard, Thanks Jim. I don’t have enought room in the garage at home to remove a half shaft, my drive slopes and didn’t want to leave it out on the road.
The idea was to strip the brakes on Monday night, have them relined and refit them on the Friday. In those 4 days I could also repair any damaged items and order new parts.
First was to use the Ferguson jack to raise the back of the tractor and remove the rear wheels. (I’ll make a post of this soon as you don’t need the tractor’s engine on in order to do this)Cool. The left hand side was first to be looked at as we thought the half shaft would not need to be removed as there are no leaks on this side.
Dry as a bone inside. it needs a good clean but is sound. The Adjuster pinion (item 31) was seized and requires some grease before reassembling. The brake shoes (item 1) looked good on this side but you should never replace just one set so both sides will be relined and refitted.
This is the later floating cam type brake fitted from tractor 200,001 which are fitted to my TEF tractor.
1. Brake Shoe
2. Self Tapping Nut
4. Steady post, 3/8″ BSF thread x 1.5″ long
5. Nut 3/8″ BSF
7, 9, 27. Return spring
8. Control Shaft
10. Dust Plate
12. Nut 1.1/16″ AF
13. Spring Washer 5/8″
14. Anchor Pins
16. Retaining Washers
17. 0.25″ dia ball bearing
18. Crown Wheel retining washer (
21. crown wheel
In contrast to the left side there is the right hand side showing the leaking seal.
With the brake drum and oil soaked shoes removed you can clearly see where the oil has seaped through the gasket.
Lots of grease inside which means the seal hasn’t been leaking a large amount. Notice the stud at the top on the trumpet housing that just won’t screw out. A little heat persuasion might be needed after trying my Britool Stud extractor first.
Just the seal and one stud remaining now. This will get removed and the housing cleaned up on Friday before replacing the half shaft.
Here is the removed half shaft. It is in good condition dispite the look. the bearings run smoothly and the seal appears to be OK. I just have to remove those 3 studs. 2 broken off and 1 standing proud. This could be the reason for the poor mating of the two items and the leak of the hydraulic fluid.
The end of the night with the light fading here are the components I need to take away to clean and check also the brake drums. The brake shoes will go to a specialist to have the linings replaced. when I got home I placed all the small parts in a cleaning /degreasing Bath.
Ordered 6 replacement studs. Second hand for Patrick at Fergiland as newstuds not available to buy from anywhere.
Coated 2 brake drums and 1 brake back housing with cleaner.
Haven’t remove remaining studs from half shaft. I’ve started panicing as this needs to be done before I can refit all the parts tomorrow!!
- clean up the half shaft end.
I have cleaned and reassemble brake back plate RH. The supporting pins that hold the brakes in position are in a really poor condition. I don’t have any replacements. I haven’t really achieved much tonight. I’m off to bed tired and disheartened.
- Heat for stud
- Rags for cleaning (thanks Tom).
- shim+ Gasket
- Inner Seal
- Masking tape
- Emery paper
- Bucket & cleaner
- Split Pins
- Grease, Grease Gun
- ruler, spirit level, engineers square
- rubber mallet
I’m off to see a friend this morning who is going to help with the stud extraction. I feel I need a second opininon on the matter before I completely damage the hub. Within half an hour of arriving the firs stud is tapped 7/16″ UNF and ready to go. The problem with the last on is I’ve broken off a hardened stud extractor in the centre of the stud. We drill either side of the thread. This damages some of the thread but most is still usable. lots more broken drills, blunt chiesels, hammered fingers but the stud is finally out. It’s now 11am.
- Clean trumpet housing RH LH
- Remove stud (with heat) RH stud extractor tool? Managed to hammer out without heat.
- Clean brake backplate still attached to tractor LH
- Clean Half shaft end & hub LH
- Remove inner seal RH
- Slacken mudguard bolts grease then retighten LH RH
The above jobs took about an hour so by 1pm I am ready to start fitting the half shaft and new brakes, for this I am going to be under guidance from Ted who has worked on Ferguson’s al his life.
We are going to follow the steps in the Ferguson instruction manual section Q Brakes, with a few highlights from Ted along the way.
Still left to do replace split pins in rear lower link and turn them the right way round.
Cost of the Job.
|6||Half shaft studs||Fergiland.com||£27.60|
|4||Brakes Shoes relined||locally||£40|
|2||0.003″ shim (3 thousenths of an inch)||locally|
|1||Inner half shaft seal||locally||£10|
|1||Black Enamel Top Coat||Halfords||£7.99|
|2||6.3mm .25″ ball bearings||Cycle Shop||10p|
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