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 The rocker cover is now in place, I’ve added gasket sealant to the top side of the gasket which is made of cork. hopefully this means I can remover the rocker cover with gasket attached to check the timing once the engine has run in and replace it again. Someone told me I should do this, check the tappets after running in. I’m not sure how long I have to leave it before I check then. If anyone knows please drop me an email. It really is starting to look like an engine. I’m now working on the air intake and the venturi section which is rather rattle. At some point I will have to give the block a coat of primer grey before I add to much to it and I can’t reach all the hard to reach corners.

Rocker Cover on

Manifolds inlet/exhaust to be added next

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I’ve cleaned and repainted the rocker cover, another aluminium part. I used original Ferguson 50 year old gaskets to assemble it back together. I’ve masked the two badges on the side one saying gap 12″ and the other talking about the standard motor company. These won’t see the light of day until the final coat of paint has gone on.

Original Ferguson Gaskets

Ready to Paint

I’ve get 6 nuts left over already and they are in box marked rocker! Oh well I’m sure I’ll have more and for now I’ve got to work out where these go. On the up side I have had one bolt from the start that I didn’t have any clue where it went. I now know it attaches the water pump to the housing.

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Hi John,

Your email really cheered me up today, Thank You. I know people are looking at the website (309 yesterday)but  communication from you readers is a little on the thin side. As for the donations page well no one’s thought ploughmyfield is worth a £1 to help running costs.

I don’t have a spare Diesel engine lying around sorry. Take a look at YouTube to see the v8’s and other engines people have fitted to fergies. Are you a member of FoFH? if not join £15ish and you can get on the forum and ask hundreds of people. Colin Taylor do you know of anyone I know you live over the water? please send me an email or can I put John in touch with you directly.  

Work still to do.

Next Jobs,
Rocker cover- wash, dismantle,  clean, assemble, mask, etch primer, undercoat, 
Exhaust Manifold- degrease,wash, clean,  high temperature Paint – black. 

Block - 
Sump plug-  gasket, fit
Sump filter – clean, undercoat, fit
Block- seal (pump x2, dip stick, front cover, Manifolds, Injectors, Water pumps, starter), clean, clean gasket compound, primer, paint 

Control Linkages,
Decompressor,
Inlet manifold,
Air filter,
Fuel Lines,
Fuel FIlters,
Fuel pump,
Fuel Compressor
Oil Breather,
Water Pump,
Fuel Tank,
Starter,
Dynamo,
Wiring,
Front axle frame, 
Front axle assembly,

Podcasts
I’ve been loving the farming today Podcasts from the BBC. 15mins in the car on the way to work of farming topics.
Farming Today Website 

And I notice the Yorkshire post does a weekly farming related podcast as well.

Yorkshire post Weekly farming podcast

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Not much to say in this one. I’ll let the photo’s speak for themselves

Start of Today

The lineup

It took about 20mins to get the clutch lined up.

Engine In

So much still to do. but today it feels as though I’ve reached a milestone.

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I finally got into the garage tonight. Christmas seems a long time ago. I’ve been so frustrated at not being able to spand a couple of hours in the garage.

My main priority is to get the engine attached to the tractor.
I’ve re attached the cover for the valves which has the oil filler and breather attached to it. It looks great. I can’t wait until the whole  tractor looks a nice new shiney coat of grey.

Cover bolted in place

In order to add the engine I started cleaning around the outside of the bell housing. I wanted to clean so far away from the engine but I didn’t want to repaint the whole gearbox section. I want the tractor back together and running I start tackling more restoration.

Bell housing without paint

The section directly behind the engine is full of mud and oil. Its to fiddly to get in and clean once he engine is in place so I’m doing it now.

Starting Mechanism needs cleaning

More to come as I want the engine in by the end of this weekend.

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I had a sudden panic whilst replacing the thrust bearing on the clutch. The housing is not symetrical.  The arms that the springs connect to Which way round should it go?

Thrust Bearing Holder

So I went trawling through the photo’s I have taken when I took the tractor apart. A piece of advice take as many pictures as you can before and whilst you are doing anything. I found the photo I needed. I’m going to put a page together tip for restoring and before you start restoring. Taking photo’s will be on the list.

Archive clutch thrust picture

The housing gasket that connects the engine to the gearbox section tool about an hour to remove. I have to remember it is made of alloy and will require something to stop the galvanic corosion occuring.

I still have lots of cleaning up to do with this middle section. It is looking a lot claener though. I don’t want to remove any paint as it’s just the engine I’m working on for now. The main aim is to get it all working again. Then i can start stripping paint.

The next few pictures are a reminder to me what need doing.

Clean gasket surface

Housing from above

Housing from the side

Closer side view

And this is what I am trying to get back to. This was the tractor just before I started taking it apart.

Before

And finally, here is the best picture I could get of the ferguson model that comes with the magazine that has been launched. Its a small model so the photo isn’t great. It is a very detailed model. How accurate it it I also don’t know as I’ve researched TE-F20’s mostly.

Tractor Model

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I have had so much trouble getting 5/16″ spring washers. Most of the covers (sump, timing cover, valve cover) on the diesel engine use 5/16″ UNC threaded bolt for a 1/2″ across flats spanner or socket. I ran out of 5/16″ spring washers I decided to replace the washers as its hard to clean the old ones, I tried 3 places to get some replacements! They could all sell me M8 spring washers. I explained that if I had wanted M8 I would have asked for M8! I should have known really that B&D bolts my usual supplier of bolts was the place to go. when I asked Andrew said “did I want a light or heavy weight spring washer”. How refreshing.

M8 ID=8.55mm   5/16″ ID=8.05mm  that’s .5mm difference.

I’ve left the valve cover / oil filler and breather cover that goes on the side of the engine in the degreaser over Christmas it is another alloy part. It came out nice and shiney so I’ll be heating it up in the oven and giving it an etch primer later today.

lock washer sizes

 Next jobs starting tonight,

I want to attach the engine to the tractor so in order to do this… I need to.
Cleanout the inside and outside of the clutch housing.  Its full of oil from when the seal at the back of the engine split.
Replace the clutch thrust bearing.
Clean up the bolts and 1 stud that hold the engine to clutch housing.
Work out how I’m going to lift the engine and move it into the correct position/height.

Ferguson Tools
I’ve added a Ferguson Tools page below on the right. Information about the Britool tools originally available when the tractors where supplied new.

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I took Thursday and Friday off with the intension of spending 2 solid days in the garage working towards getting the tractor engine back onto the tractor and running by the end of the year. I’ve spent 3 days painting and decorating one of the rooms in the house! I managed a couple of hours in the garage on Sunday night.

I’ve got the timing cover fitted on the second attempt. The cable tie I was using on the first go got caught and I couldn’t pull it through the inspection cover. So I had to start again using string. The idea is to tie the chain tensioner sprocket in position with string. fit the cover then tighten the tensioner bolt then cut the string. Easy in theory, a little harder in practice. Well I finally got it. I don’t think any of the timing has been affected. It was an effort re inserting the new oil seal on the inside of the cover as well. Al in now.

Timing cover

Next move is to add the cover to the cam follower tops. Then i can think about getting the clutch housing cleaned up and try to join the two halves!

eBay
I sold a tractor part on eBay for 99p I don’t think I’m going to be a millionaire very soon.

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Just a Quick one tonight.

I’ve se the decompression gaps on the exhaust side of the rocker, 1,2 & 4 cylinders set to .030″ and 3 cylinder set to .045″. once set by turning the decompression shaft it really made a difference as o how easy it was to turn over the engine. They where all different gaps before I set them.

Timing cover has been stripped of all it’s paint and has been heated up in the oven then painted with etching primer along with the fuel filter top. I’m going to re fit the cover tomorrow as I am happy with the timing. I am also trying to get the chain tensioner set as it’s just a cable tie holding it in compression at the moment.

Timing Cover Before

Timing Cover After

Filter Top

Colin thanks for the info on the spanner I’ve added it to the spanner page.

Comments, You know you lot can add a comment to any of these posts? Just after each post there is a line that says comments. if you click on it you can enter a comment about the post. That way I and others can see what you’ve written. If it’s a great point it would be great to share it with all of us.  There are about 350 people looking at this site each day. no one have anything to add?

Pictures, You can also click on any of the picture to see them at a larger size.

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A great night in the garage.

The flywheel is on. Thanks Mark for the aligning tool it worked wonders. I added a new pilot bearing to the clutch before installing it. I have had to refit the old tab washers as I’ve had 2 other lost sent to me and they are wrong so I’ve made a not of the sizes they should be just in case. 

Flywheel in place

Correct Flywheel Tab Washer size

Clutch plates in place with the aid of Mark

Fitting the clutch moved the timing chain out on the front of the engine. I wanted to go over the settings from the manual again so it wasn’t to much hastle to reset everything.

Tractor Timing all setup

I’ve even made a Video of the engine turning over. It now turns much easier with the Flywheel in place.

Get a Video here of the engine turning by hand (23meg) .mov

Get a video here of the engine turning by hand (10meg) .m4v

Timing cover in the degreaser bath. It’s another aluminium part so I’ll take al the paint off the outside, heat it up and spray with Etch primer the same as I did for the sump. I want to get the cover on ASAP as I have a cable tie holding the chain tensioner in position.

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 I finally managed to get back into the garage. It’s been a week. The first think I did was the usual tidy up. I am a city boy so I don’t have a large barn but a small garage to keep my tractor in. You can see the lack of space. Still I’m happy I have a space out of the weather to work on the tractor.

My Garage

I’ve got what I think is the last delivery of parts I’ll need to get the tractor up and running. It includes Front axle pin and bearing, clutch pilot bearing, clutch thrust bearing and tab washers to hold the fly wheel on. I  got them from 

Geoff Mathews Engineering a local tractor parts supplier. They didn’t take to long to get and the price was reasonable.

Final Parts

I’ve had to clean up the clutch and fly wheel they where covered in oil. I’ve given them the usual bath in degreaser. I think the clutch assembly is new as it is carrying an MF part number.

Clutch in degreasing Bath

 I think the clutch plate has been recently added as there doesn’t look much wear on it. I’ve decided not to replace it. I think I can always replace it at a later date if need be.

Clutch plate pic 1

Clutch plate Pic 2

I’m still not sure about the timing still need to check it. I also need to do the decompression settings for cylinders 1,2 and 4.

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Tonight I added The Rocker to the top of the engine.

Rocker Added (click to enlarge)

 With the rocker added I set the gap between the valve and tappet of 0.012″

I then moved to the timing chain on the front of the engine. Where are you ROY. I could really do with some support on this one.  I know this is one of the trickiest things to get right with the rebuild. 

First was to add the shims back behind the cog on the crank shaft.

Shims behind Cog

The shims are added to make sure the cog is in line with the other two.

Three Cogs in place

I then tried the chain. I’m not sure if the cam is in the right place. I will have to re check it after reading the manual again. (The manual isn’t that helpful. It flits around from page to page so much)

Chain & tensioner in place

Here you see the chain tensioner in position.

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