You can clearly see in circle 1 that the lever does not touch the stop.

 first tried to adjust linkage 3 but there is new screw to adjust top or bottom. So then I gave item 2 four turns and now when moving the throttle it reaches the stop.

I thought this one was going to run and run. I still haven’t fired the tractor up to test it as it was late again by the time I’d finish and I don’t think the neighbours would approve of the noise so late.

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/spill-timing-te-f20/

It was late last friday night when I’d finished setting the spill timing so I didn’t get chance to test it until Saturday morning. It’s running 200% better with no black smoke.

The tick over speed is still high the spill timing has not sorted this out. One thing that was mentioned was a faulty Diaphragm. So that was the next thing I checked in the week.

After checking (well I think I checked it correctly as the Ferguson Repair Manual isn’t clear) The Diaphragm is OK with no holes, even a pin hole in the Diaphragm can affect the tick over speed. So the next thing is setting the tick over speed manually at the air intake point.

I’ll keep you posted but this one could run and run. I might have got to the bottom of it by christmas!

Hi John,
I’m glad you like the site.
Please send a report and photo’s of the Heritage museum. I’m sure lots of others would be interested in your view.

Yes I will be making a timing disc. I have access to a (CAD)Computer Aided design package. I’ll be adding the disc as a download for you all to make your own. it’s a bit like blue peter here!

I will be do documenting everything I can john it’s an essential part of the website.

To Do

• Make template for timing (30BTDC (hole in flywheel) 32BTDC spill timing point, 0TDC (just as a check for the valve timing)
• Ask Holland brand workshops if they have a number one port swan neck I can borrow for the pump.
• find a hexagon spanner to undo the nuts on the front of the pump.
• Read the Manual agin and again.
• Find some time when I can do it.

I’m overwhelmed by the method to set the timing. I didn’t pay that much attention to this when rebuilding so I don’t think I’ve done it correctly as well as the fact I have to remove the front axle, remove the timing cover and the rocker cover.
I find the Ferguson User Manual confusing to follow to set the spill timing. Again I asked on the forum and had this very detailed response from René.

Now I’m sure if someone showed me how to do this it would be really easy, but to follow the instructions I just can’t imagine it and I think that’s half the battle. It just seems really complicated. Can someone use the pipe from injector 1 as the “swan neck” pipe?

Full FoFH Tick Over Forum transcript here

Read Geoff’s Spill Timing article here lots of images but could do with more. It seems easier to follow with pictures.
http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2008/9/10/3876652.html

Whilst out on the front lawn I took some photos of the assembled tractor. I think it looks great. I can now notice even more all the items that have not been painted they look so scruffy! So the next job is to have a go at the rest of the tractor starting with the back wheels.

Mike’s email( Assorted Gubbins) made me chuckle especially the part about fixing all the little faulty. I have a leak from the out port of the fuel lift pump (fixed with PTFE tape). The bleed screw is also leaking diesel from the seal( I think I have stripped the thread on the alloy body).

The idle speed of the engine is also faster than I think it should be. The remerdy for this is to shorten the control linkage between pump and throttle. I have a lot of black smoke or soot coming out of the exhaust. This could be a timing issue or burning off of the oil used to lubricate everything whilst the tractor was being assembled. I am going to leave it to see if it reduces and maybe look at setting the spill timing again. A diferent method must now be used to do this as the engine is now a lot more assembled than the last time I set the timing.

I haven’t kept a complete record of all the costs involved in the rebuild. But I have been asked to put together some accounts for the work so I will do my best. I have no idea of the number of hours it’s taken nor would I be able to guess. I also want to put together a help document for anyone thinking of restoring there tractor.

Oh and the reason the tractor stops after 4:30 is I forgot to turn the fuel tap on!

Now it’s working it’s all a bit of an anti climax! What will I do now? All those jobs around the house that I haven’t done for the past 6 months. Now it’s time to get out and use it. (On light duties for 20 hours, the I need to reset the tappets.)

(5mins long abridged from 25mins long)

As you can see it didn’t start before I had flattened the battery. I could not understand why, fuel was getting all the way to the injectors, and then I realised I’d left the stop in. So the engine was never going to start. Now it was to late, The battery was flat and did not have enough power to turn the engine over.
Oh well I’ll put the battery on charge and have anther go tomorrow. It should just start first time tomorrow now I know what to do. There is one good thing to all this, the oil pump has been working and should have pumped oil all around the engine to  allthe major bearing surfaces. Watch this space for some developments soon.

It’s nearly time to put some oil into the tractor’s engine. 12 pints for a diesel engine sump, 3/4 pint for the Air Cleaner Bowl, and some oil for the reservour in the C.A.V. pump

So what oil do I put in the tractor? I know this is always a great topic for debate on any forum or discussion on tractors,  so here goes.

In the TEF-20 Instruction Manual that was originally supplied with the tractor there is a table showing types of engine oil to use and manufacturers and their products.

The key to the chart is temperature.  The temperature of the ambient air where you live in my case the UK or The British Isles. For the UK the recommendation is to have S.A.E 20 oil in the winter (0°C-10°C) and a S.A.E. 30 grade oil in the summer (10°C-30°C).  When the tractor was new oil was only available with these single grades or temperature ranges. This means to get the best result you should change the oil between winter and summer as the outside air temperature changes.

 Then someone had the bright idea of combining the two grades of oil into one called a multi grade oil. This gives you the opposite to what you’d expect. It gives you an oil which is thinner in the winter at startup when the oil should be colder and more viscous or sticky and a thicker oil in the summer at startup when the oil should be thinner as it is hotter outside. How does the oil achieve this? Additives in the oil mean it can be used over a range of temperatures. The hotter it gets the thicker it gets. This goes against normal principles that oil gets thinner the hotter it gets.

So I bought  20W-50 Multi grade oil. It has a 20 SAE value in the Winter and up to 50 SAE value in the summer.

I have also added this oil to the CAV diesel pump as recommended.

So now I’ve got the oil into the engine how am I going to get it to circulate around the engine before I start it up is another issue.

Easter is just around the corner and I’m really pushing to get it running. The Ferguson paint I’ve used can be sprayed over within 4 hours of applying the first coat otherwise it has to be left 4 days before it can be painted again. Just one more top coat on the engine then I can start reassembling the front axle assembly, all parts of which have been painted

I’m going to paint the tank, bonnet and radiator at a later stage.

I have fitted the fuel pump after a total strip down clean out and check over. It was very dirty inside. Not all TE-F20′s had  a lift pump. The early models did not, there two fuel filters where also fitted in parallel (fuel passed through one or the other). Then in production the engine block casting was changed to include a couple of mounting screws for the pump and a hole into the engine  to attach a lever from the back of the  pump to the cam shaft on the inside.  I have seen a transitional stage where the hole  and mounting studs for the pump are in place in the block  but there is a  blanking plate over it. The filters are still in parallel. Once the pump was added the filters where changed to series (running through one then the other). I assume the additional pressure from the pump meant there was enough force to pass through one filter then the other. 

Disappointingly I have a rubber tube taking fuel from the main tank to the  pump. There was a secondary fuel tank or Auxiliary tank fitted on TE-F’s I have one but have never used it. I know they get full of a green sludge. With mine it’s down to a lack of correct pipe’s. If anyone out there has a spare solid pipe that goes from the Auxiliary tank to pump I’d be interested. I am also missing the second half of the pipe that goes into the back of the Auxiliary tank from the main one. 

I think I also need to take the rest of the paint off the fuel injector pump and spray it properly. It was my intension to mask it off whilst spraying the rest of the tractor.  I can see it being tricky to do a good job of masking it. It will also look rough when all the rest of the tractor is painted.

The tractor in this picture looks much better then the one in the post “Reference”below. That picture was taken before the strip down. The decompression lever at the front of the engine has now been added and the water pump housing as well as the dynamo the. The inlet and exhaust manifold holes in the block have been masked to stop paint getting in whilst painting.

I’ve started work on the starter motor. I have removed layers of mud and soil before I can clean the surface of the metal. In the picture I’ve removed the switch and solenoid from the top of the starter. I don’t intend to do anything with the internals of the motor just check the brushes are  clean and lots of material on them. The starter has always worked very well so no need to fix it.

 And below the condition of the starter when it was removed from the tractor. I intend to paint it grey the same as all the other parts. I have seen the started and dynamo painted black on some restored tractors as black was the colour Lucas originally supplied them. If you had a replacement then maybe there wasn’t chance to  paint the replacement  when fitted. Hence why some people prefer them in black not grey.

And finally I’ve got the front axle support frame back from a friend who was welding it for me. It looks great. Now it has to be stripped and painted like everything else.

Front Dynamo Decompression Assembly

I can’t stress enough how important it is to take loads of photo’s at every stage of the process of restoration. With digital cameras now costing less than £50  (www.ebuyer.com)there is no excuse to not be snapping away. I try to take pictures of everything, you never know when they are going to come in useful. Take the picture above, I’ve dismantled the front decompression assembly and I can’t remember how it goes back together. Now with the aid of the photo I can. I can also see the position of the cover over the dynamo brushes and which side the bracket goes that attaches to the top of the dynamo to adjust tension. Photo’s Priceless!

Before

The hight temperature paint needs to stick to the bare metal.

So I found a person who loves his job. Unfortunately I forgot to ask the gentleman’s name. He says its great doing the sandblasting as he can escape into his own little world with his ventilated helmet  and a high powered light to see the work by.  I’m sure I’ll be back to get some more stuff done, like the back wheels as they where very reasonable. The room looked big enough to put a hole tractor in.

Unknown

he 

Company Name

The results speak for themselves and the part looks fantastic.

After

They look fab. helped by the dramatic ligthing in this photo I think.

The water pump has also been stripped and primed ready for assembly back on the tractor.

I had to use the nitro mors paint stripper on this one as it wouldn’t come off. I don’t mind using paint stripper. in most cases it’s not needed and I don’t like to use it as its expensive. 

Back in May last year I bought a starting handle for a TEF-20 engine. I thought it would come in handy for the engine rebuild. I could use it to turn the engine over for realigning the clutch, moving the pistons in the sleeves etc.

When I put the starting handle in the bonnet hole it didn’t go all the way in. On closer inspection the starter wasn’t in line with the dog on the front of the engine.

So the strip down of the engine has been an ideal time to investigate. On investigation I found the pin at fault. I think this is due to the missing bolt. Item 25 from above. I think on the diesel model it is different though and the bolt comes through from the back. with the washer and nut on the front.

With this much wear there is no way it was going to line up. All down to a missing bolt.

Once apart I inspected the other parts. The worst item was the frame itself. The pin is supported at the front and back. The front is quite thick, about 1″, but at the back it is 1/4″ or about 6mm. The hole had become oval. It seems like a bit of a design flaw by Mr Ferguson’s design team (the only one I’ve found) .

So replacing the pin was easy as they are available from most suppliers. I also replaced the bush item 20 which goes in item 21. How to fix the oval frame though.  The bush for the MF35 is different and made of steel. So I bought one of those thinking I could use it, somehow!

After thinking about it I came up with the idea of enlarging the hole in the back and using the bush (cut down) in the hole to take the weight of the axle and remain aligned to the front bush.

A big thank you at this point to Roy for enlarging the hole and cutting the pi down. It’s taken him over 4 hours. I asked him to take a look at this as I don’t want to loose focus from the engine. Thanks Roy.

His results are fantastic. He has also replaced the bush in the axle. It looks great.

The frame is now with another friend who is going to weld it for me as I don’t have a welding kit. Once back it’s going to take some cleaning up before it can go back on the tractor.

I started work on the right hand side of the engine. With Roys help I finished most of this side of the engine.

Roy Come to help

Roy Cleaned up the injectors and the pump whilst I cleaned the tubes connecting them all.

Cleaning the Injector Pump

4 Injectors Fitted

Pipes

Before fitting the injectors and pump I added the oil feed pipe to the oil pressure guage.

Oil pipe

After cleaning the pump it was fitted to the tractor.

Pump Fitted

At the end of the day the right hand side of the engine is nearly complete.

End of day 1

More to come tomorrow.

Original Ferguson Gaskets

Ready to Paint

I’ve get 6 nuts left over already and they are in box marked rocker! Oh well I’m sure I’ll have more and for now I’ve got to work out where these go. On the up side I have had one bolt from the start that I didn’t have any clue where it went. I now know it attaches the water pump to the housing.

Your email really cheered me up today, Thank You. I know people are looking at the website (309 yesterday)but  communication from you readers is a little on the thin side. As for the donations page well no one’s thought ploughmyfield is worth a £1 to help running costs.

I don’t have a spare Diesel engine lying around sorry. Take a look at YouTube to see the v8′s and other engines people have fitted to fergies. Are you a member of FoFH? if not join £15ish and you can get on the forum and ask hundreds of people. Colin Taylor do you know of anyone I know you live over the water? please send me an email or can I put John in touch with you directly.  

Work still to do.

Next Jobs,
Rocker cover- wash, dismantle,  clean, assemble, mask, etch primer, undercoat, 
Exhaust Manifold- degrease,wash, clean,  high temperature Paint – black. 

Block - 
Sump plug-  gasket, fit
Sump filter – clean, undercoat, fit
Block- seal (pump x2, dip stick, front cover, Manifolds, Injectors, Water pumps, starter), clean, clean gasket compound, primer, paint 

Control Linkages,
Decompressor,
Inlet manifold,
Air filter,
Fuel Lines,
Fuel FIlters,
Fuel pump,
Fuel Compressor
Oil Breather,
Water Pump,
Fuel Tank,
Starter,
Dynamo,
Wiring,
Front axle frame, 
Front axle assembly,

Podcasts
I’ve been loving the farming today Podcasts from the BBC. 15mins in the car on the way to work of farming topics.
Farming Today Website 

And I notice the Yorkshire post does a weekly farming related podcast as well.

Yorkshire post Weekly farming podcast

Start of Today

The lineup

It took about 20mins to get the clutch lined up.

Engine In

So much still to do. but today it feels as though I’ve reached a milestone.

My main priority is to get the engine attached to the tractor.
I’ve re attached the cover for the valves which has the oil filler and breather attached to it. It looks great. I can’t wait until the whole  tractor looks a nice new shiney coat of grey.

Cover bolted in place

In order to add the engine I started cleaning around the outside of the bell housing. I wanted to clean so far away from the engine but I didn’t want to repaint the whole gearbox section. I want the tractor back together and running I start tackling more restoration.

Bell housing without paint

The section directly behind the engine is full of mud and oil. Its to fiddly to get in and clean once he engine is in place so I’m doing it now.

Starting Mechanism needs cleaning

More to come as I want the engine in by the end of this weekend.

Thrust Bearing Holder

So I went trawling through the photo’s I have taken when I took the tractor apart. A piece of advice take as many pictures as you can before and whilst you are doing anything. I found the photo I needed. I’m going to put a page together tip for restoring and before you start restoring. Taking photo’s will be on the list.

Archive clutch thrust picture

The housing gasket that connects the engine to the gearbox section tool about an hour to remove. I have to remember it is made of alloy and will require something to stop the galvanic corosion occuring.

I still have lots of cleaning up to do with this middle section. It is looking a lot claener though. I don’t want to remove any paint as it’s just the engine I’m working on for now. The main aim is to get it all working again. Then i can start stripping paint.

The next few pictures are a reminder to me what need doing.

Clean gasket surface

Housing from above

Housing from the side

Closer side view

And this is what I am trying to get back to. This was the tractor just before I started taking it apart.

Before

And finally, here is the best picture I could get of the ferguson model that comes with the magazine that has been launched. Its a small model so the photo isn’t great. It is a very detailed model. How accurate it it I also don’t know as I’ve researched TE-F20′s mostly.

Tractor Model

M8 ID=8.55mm   5/16″ ID=8.05mm  that’s .5mm difference.

I’ve left the valve cover / oil filler and breather cover that goes on the side of the engine in the degreaser over Christmas it is another alloy part. It came out nice and shiney so I’ll be heating it up in the oven and giving it an etch primer later today.

lock washer sizes

 Next jobs starting tonight,

I want to attach the engine to the tractor so in order to do this… I need to.
Cleanout the inside and outside of the clutch housing.  Its full of oil from when the seal at the back of the engine split.
Replace the clutch thrust bearing.
Clean up the bolts and 1 stud that hold the engine to clutch housing.
Work out how I’m going to lift the engine and move it into the correct position/height.

Ferguson Tools
I’ve added a Ferguson Tools page below on the right. Information about the Britool tools originally available when the tractors where supplied new.

I’ve got the timing cover fitted on the second attempt. The cable tie I was using on the first go got caught and I couldn’t pull it through the inspection cover. So I had to start again using string. The idea is to tie the chain tensioner sprocket in position with string. fit the cover then tighten the tensioner bolt then cut the string. Easy in theory, a little harder in practice. Well I finally got it. I don’t think any of the timing has been affected. It was an effort re inserting the new oil seal on the inside of the cover as well. Al in now.

Timing cover

Next move is to add the cover to the cam follower tops. Then i can think about getting the clutch housing cleaned up and try to join the two halves!

eBay
I sold a tractor part on eBay for 99p I don’t think I’m going to be a millionaire very soon.

Just a Quick one tonight.

I’ve se the decompression gaps on the exhaust side of the rocker, 1,2 & 4 cylinders set to .030″ and 3 cylinder set to .045″. once set by turning the decompression shaft it really made a difference as o how easy it was to turn over the engine. They where all different gaps before I set them.

Timing cover has been stripped of all it’s paint and has been heated up in the oven then painted with etching primer along with the fuel filter top. I’m going to re fit the cover tomorrow as I am happy with the timing. I am also trying to get the chain tensioner set as it’s just a cable tie holding it in compression at the moment.

Timing Cover Before

Timing Cover After

Filter Top

Colin thanks for the info on the spanner I’ve added it to the spanner page.

Comments, You know you lot can add a comment to any of these posts? Just after each post there is a line that says comments. if you click on it you can enter a comment about the post. That way I and others can see what you’ve written. If it’s a great point it would be great to share it with all of us.  There are about 350 people looking at this site each day. no one have anything to add?

Pictures, You can also click on any of the picture to see them at a larger size.

The flywheel is on. Thanks Mark for the aligning tool it worked wonders. I added a new pilot bearing to the clutch before installing it. I have had to refit the old tab washers as I’ve had 2 other lost sent to me and they are wrong so I’ve made a not of the sizes they should be just in case. 

Flywheel in place

Correct Flywheel Tab Washer size

Clutch plates in place with the aid of Mark

Fitting the clutch moved the timing chain out on the front of the engine. I wanted to go over the settings from the manual again so it wasn’t to much hastle to reset everything.

Tractor Timing all setup

I’ve even made a Video of the engine turning over. It now turns much easier with the Flywheel in place.

Get a Video here of the engine turning by hand (23meg) .mov

Get a video here of the engine turning by hand (10meg) .m4v

Timing cover in the degreaser bath. It’s another aluminium part so I’ll take al the paint off the outside, heat it up and spray with Etch primer the same as I did for the sump. I want to get the cover on ASAP as I have a cable tie holding the chain tensioner in position.

My Garage

I’ve got what I think is the last delivery of parts I’ll need to get the tractor up and running. It includes Front axle pin and bearing, clutch pilot bearing, clutch thrust bearing and tab washers to hold the fly wheel on. I  got them from 

Geoff Mathews Engineering a local tractor parts supplier. They didn’t take to long to get and the price was reasonable.

Final Parts

I’ve had to clean up the clutch and fly wheel they where covered in oil. I’ve given them the usual bath in degreaser. I think the clutch assembly is new as it is carrying an MF part number.

Clutch in degreasing Bath

 I think the clutch plate has been recently added as there doesn’t look much wear on it. I’ve decided not to replace it. I think I can always replace it at a later date if need be.

Clutch plate pic 1

Clutch plate Pic 2

I’m still not sure about the timing still need to check it. I also need to do the decompression settings for cylinders 1,2 and 4.

Rocker Added (click to enlarge)

 With the rocker added I set the gap between the valve and tappet of 0.012″

I then moved to the timing chain on the front of the engine. Where are you ROY. I could really do with some support on this one.  I know this is one of the trickiest things to get right with the rebuild. 

First was to add the shims back behind the cog on the crank shaft.

Shims behind Cog

The shims are added to make sure the cog is in line with the other two.

Three Cogs in place

I then tried the chain. I’m not sure if the cam is in the right place. I will have to re check it after reading the manual again. (The manual isn’t that helpful. It flits around from page to page so much)

Chain & tensioner in place

Here you see the chain tensioner in position.