Ashover Show 2010 Page

Still left to assemble, Fuel system, Air filter, Ki -gass system.

Overall I’m pleased with the progress so far. The pictures don’t do the dashboard justice. I would like to buy a new control box and wire harness to see if the charging of the battery is improved. I would also like to buy a new steering wheel.

I still can’t believe the tractor isn’t together and running yet after the enforced dashboard rebuild! (see previous posts) I should get a big chunk of time to complete the rebuild at the end of this week, all being well.

Dashboard

I’ve been adding the final coats of paint to the dashboard itself. I’m impressed at how good things can look if you work at them. I’ve been using wet and dry and sanding it in between coats and it’s looking very shiny (Pony35)

For reference I’ve been Watching Alan’s restoration video again. I’m feeling confident that when I get to the point I need to paint the bonnet I will be able to and it’ won’t look half bad. Based on the work I’ve already done on the dashboard.

Chrome parts Collected

Readers help

If you don’t mind me asking where to buy your MF paint from online? I ask because the place I normally buy mine from locally has increased there prices, I’m paying £9.69 a can. With all the dashboard rebuilding going on I’m going through them at a rate of knots.

Paint Found online –  Thanks to your recommendations I went to www.masseyparts.co.uk/paint and got the paint for £8.81 (£7.50 +VAT) a can with free delivery on all orders over £30. Once registered on the site I found the process of ordering painless and I could specify a different address for delivery. It would be nice if they accepted FOFH or Ferguson club membership to get an extra special discount but the prices are competitive even so. So I’ll let you know how quick they are to deliver

Painting parts process

Nice one Cyril

Can you send in some more information please, what have you done with the tractor, what did it look like before you started, The readers want to know. And yes you are right the numberplate and plough lamp bracket look fab.

I have found out today the CHrome parts are ready for collection. To late to pickup today, I will have to collect them on Monday!

In the time I’ve been restoring my tractor I have tackles many jobs,  an engine rebuild, a hydraulics overhaul, lots and lots of painting. In all of these jobs nothing ever goes as easily as anticipated. I’ve just come to expect it as a part of restoring. So imagine my shock when part of the restoration went easier than I thought! what am I on about?

In the refurbishing of the steering and dashboard section I’ve had to strip the steering column to be able to repaint it properly. That’s the first thing that was easy. I’ve heard horror stories about how hard it is to remove the steering wheel. A couple of taps from the hammer and mine was off. Taking the steering column apart I thought to myself there is no way I can refit all these rusty chrome parts to a nice newly painted tractor. So I decided to get then re chromed.   I looked on the internet for any companies in Sheffield that could do this and found a company not 3 miles away from my house.

www.alphaelectroplaters.co.uk

It just gets better they were open Saturdays from 6am. I took the parts in thinking he would tell me that I needed to clean them up before they could do anything. No, It was all part of the service, they grind, pickle, polish and plate. John who I spoke to said it was going to take a week. after spending six years so far on the restoration what is another week.

So have you spotted my mistake?

In the picture above and the description there is no mention of the gear stick knob. I didn’t take it in originally. so I spent a little time yesterday removing it. First drill out the aluminium pin then apply a little heat. I’ve since taken the knob in to have it chromed with all the other parts.

There is only one item left after all the above,  the levelling box handle. I’m not ready to do anything with the back end and as the platers have no minimum qty I’ll get it chromed when I refurbish the back end.

I noticed this from the FoFH Forum, If you know what you want and it’s wrom sparex then this could be good.

This company is selling the entire Sparex range of parts online. That is 513 TE20 parts listed, 1916 100 series parts.

http://www.malpasonline.co.uk 

Delivery charges (statring at £4)

http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/WebResources/Malpas/StaticHTML/DeliveryNotes.htm

With this shiny newly painted part added it makes the rest seem as though they need a fresh coat of paint. It seems never ending.

Last Sunday 27th June 2010 we had a family outing to The Sheffield Steam & Vintage Club Rally. The weather was glorious and the sights amazing. For such local Rally showing a handful of tractors there was a wealth to talk about.

First and foremost it was a steam day  and there were steam engines a plenty of all shapes and sizes. Trucks, Cars, Motorbikes and stationary engines all had a space on the show field along with a tank! Here are the big steam engines  in the show ring.

It was the tractors and especially the Ferguson tractors that grab most of my attention. Although there where only four Ferguson tractors on display and of those only two listed in the program, chatting to their owners kept me happy for a couple of hours.

Ferguson Sold By Samuel Wilsons & Son LTD of Sheffield

The first tractor I spotted was this example. It was originally supplied by Samuel Wilson & Sons of Sheffield. I’ve undertaken some research on the company and can say it was supplied by Wilsons as it has these clues.

1. Blatantly obvious the name plate.

2. The number plate bracket is also a Wilsons design they were made locally and fitted to the tractors that where road registered.

(This tractor doesn’t have a Sheffield registration number and as I didn’t speak to the owner I’m not sure why)

TE-F20 with a Horn-draulic loader & Cordwood saw

Ferguson TE-F20, 1953, 702 XUN, owned by John Fotheringham, Lincoln.
Fitted with a ferguson Cordwood saw type A.LEA201 and Horn-draulic loader with shovel attachment.

I just love the name Horn-draulic and the name plate is very stylish. The loader to me looks as though is should be on a much larger tractor. A little over engineered for a Feguson.  There is a lot of metal involved, not like the MIL loader or the Ferguson banana loader.

Speaking to John he has spent a lot of time restoring this tractor and loader he bought a couple of years ago. I liked his attitude, he wanted to restore them but with as many original parts as possible.  I think he has done a fantastic job and the finish is amazing.

A great example of Johns wanting to use original parts. Behind the Exhaust manifold the block was split do a friend welded a 6″ long plate on rather than john purchasing a replacement block.

Someone had told John this was a Ferguson reduction gearbox but I said I thought it was the type available from Rotary Hoes LTD  (later Howard) for use with on of there rotavators. Further Investigation has confirmed this fact. The gearbox was fitted to give the tractor a slow ground speed whilst maintaining the pto speed which drove the implement. For more information take a look at the first few minutes of the Ferguson on the Farm, part 3, DVD for more information.

John Fotheringham and His TE-F20. John was quite happy to demonstrate his saw bench in use for anyone interested enough to stop.

Newark winning tracotor 2009

Ferguson TE-D20, 1955, VAU 380, owned by Mr Colin Lawton from Stocksbridge.
Winner at Newark Tractor show 2009 Best Ferguson in show.

Well the decision is yours.  This tractor is like marmite one of those things you love or hate. To some this isn’t original as there are a lot of extra chrome bits which wouldn’t have been chrome to start with. As for me I’m torn I can see both sides Better than original or original but off the production line wins in the end.

I can appreciate the hours of hard work the owner has put in. Colin said it himself ” It didn’t cost a lot of money to restore just hours of effort”

I Love the use of the 9 hole drawbar for this mole plough

My hate of the wrong type of nut or bolt now extends to Aluminium rivets.

After removing the Ki-gass brass plate on the dashboard to repaint the dash. I’ve also removed the serial number plate to paint the steering column I now need to re attach the plates. One suggestion was using pop rivets, sorry pony35 (FoFH Forum Member) but I just couldn’t do it. so I went on the hunt for Solid Aluminium rivets 1/8″ [3.175mm] in diameter. I found some but I had to order 200. I only need 8. So if you need 4 solid aluminium rivets to hold your  plate on then I’ve got them.

I’m selling 4 including postage (UK only) for £1 to try to recover the cost of buying 200 in the first place.

With my tractor out of action at the moment it was great to get out and do some “tractoring” today.  I have a confession, I wasn’t on a ferguson. I was using a modern 4WD tractor with a cab to cut a field for hay and I loved it. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have enjoyed it even more if it had been my fergie instead.
The field was about 3 acres and it didn’t take that long to cut. This field is going to be turned into hay so fingers crossed for sun and wind for the next week or so.

Last weekend The family and I went to the 5th Annual Vintage Tractor show at Newby Hall, Ripon. For me the event ticked all the right boxes. It was local (less than one and a half hours travelling time) The weather was Fab (wall to wall Sunshine), my wife could meet up with her family who also lived locally 9Durham), there were lots of Ferguson tractors (more than 65 TE, FE 35 and MF35’s on show) FoFH and The Ferguson Club had a stand. So that was all the great stuff so what made it fantastic? Well Brian Pickering, Membership secretary  for the Ferguson club organised a drive by of Ferguson tractors in the main ring at 3pm on the Saturday. They were short of drivers to chauffeur the tractors in and out of the ring. So I thought I should volunteer when asked to help. Who wouldn’t want to drive a TE-F20 around a vintage tractor show in the sun for an hour or so?

I took over 150 pictures on the day  and Video as well. This article shows just a small percentage of the day. The long panorama shots, with some great detail, will open bigger when you click on them.

For me the Ferguson club stand was the highlight of the day, lots of tractors lots of interesting implements I just wish I’d have had more time to look at them all and chat with the owners.

A Bust  Ferguson Club stand

 A line of Fergusons waiting to go into the main ring.

 An unusual Ferguson that was built for the MOD

My steed for the day a 1956 Diesel with a serial plate number more then 500,000

More Video and pictures to follow

A review of the weekend from the Yorkshire Post.

http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/localnews/Thousands-turn-out-to-see.6360571.jp

Disappointingly I didn’t get any pictures of the whole tractors just interesting snippets.

I did speak to the owner and gave him the website address. So if you’ve had a look at the site MR. Hollinrake drop me an email and let me know what you think.

I’m looking for a new control box and wiring loom for the tractor so hope there will be some trade stands.

links

Newby Hall Website: http://www.newbyhall.com/

Yorkshire Vintage Association website: http://theyva.com/8.html

Original seal on the left with modern insert. Off the shelf modern replacement on the right.

Back on track

Progress so far. If you’ve read this page previously you’ll know I dropped a bolt into the gearbox resulting in a 4 hour strip down to remove it. It’s taking more than 4 hours to put it back together. With it now the season for driving my tractor and not repairing it I’m keen to get it on the road again.

First on the list is replacing the steering box and getting it bolted to the tractor. I’ve taken this opportunity to get it all cleaned up and repaired before bolting it all together. This process involves a new coat of paint.

As much of the paint and primer removed from the main casting as possible.  This is just before I gave it an etch primer. I heated it up in the oven before painting to remove the water I washed it in and warm it for the paint to cure/dry better.

Steering Box with some primer and undercoat.

Steering arms and air cleaner in the open getting a warm before there primer coat.

Farm Ideas website

A great Farm Blog as a Garage tinkerer I just can’t put this site down. I’ve been a fan of the magazine for ages so it will be interesting to see how the blog develops

http://www.farmideas.co.uk/

http://www.farmideas.blogspot.com/

I’m busy living at the moment so there isn’t much going on Ferguson wise but I have had this fantastic email from a reader I just wanted to share with you all.

Martin’s Photo’s

In readiness for the work I acquires some gaskets and steering box seals.I also got a proper Dowty trailer connection for the tipper pipe and being optimistic I also bought the inner rear trumpet housing seal!  I can’t believe nobody makes a look alike seal for the steering box. A new seal loks nothing like the old Ferguson one. I got these parts from a very nice man.

Geoff Mathews Engineers

Tractor & Agricultural Parts

Unit 17, Pavilion Workshops
Park Road
Holmewood
Chesterfield
Derbyshire
S42 5UY

01246 851118

http://www.gmengineers.co.uk

I had a great chat with Geoff who is very knowledgeable about lots of tractor makes from old to new not just Fergusons. The company as well as supplying parts all over the world also repair tractors at there nearby farm. I’ll be trying to use Geoff for all me parts needs as I like to support local companies.

Steering box upside down on the drive. Oil yet to be drained. Dashboard and attached metal work has already been removed.

Parts laid out now waiting to strip and paint them before reassembly.

The lower plate removed and access to the inside visible. I’ve slackened the nuts off  but the arms don’t seem to want to pull out. I’m not sure what the next step is?

Using A Ferguson Tractor Jack

Yesterday was going so well. I was experimenting with the Ferguson jackI bought last summer for £35 (front and back sections). I can now use the jack  because I have original Ferguson lower links fitted to the tractor not modern thicker copies.

I got to the root of the tipper pipe leaking. It looks as though the braze has fractured that holds the nipple on. The problem is not the looseness of the fitting that screws into the tractor. I had put a clean pot under the tractor to catch all the hydraulic fluid coming out whilst I was tinkering with the tipper pipe. That is where my troubles started. It was a windy day so I put a big bolt in the bottom of the container to stop it blowing away!

So with my tipper pipe investigations complete I unscrewed the filler cap on the top of the gearbox housing and pored the caught hydraulic fluid back into the tractor. I forgot I’d put a BIG bolt in the bottom to stop the container getting blown away. The bolt was now covered with fluid so I didn’t see it. In went the bolt into the gearbox. AAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!

How the hell am I going to get this out? The tractor was parked on the road halfway across the drive. I dare not move it for fear of the bold lodging in the gearbox causing untold damage.

I drained all the hydraulic fluid in the hope I could see the bolt through the filler cover. I poked my finger through the drain hole to feel the nut. After about an hour of fiddling and several bent coat hangers I couldn’t see how I was going to retrieve the nut. There was only one thing left to try. By removing the steering box and gearbox cover I could gain greater access to the gearbox and fish out the nut (in theory). Well that was the plan. time was against me and it starting to get dark in 2 hours, I knew I had to work fast. so 4 hours after dropping the nut into the gearbox I had removed the steering box, dashboard, wiring harness, steering wheel all in one. It wasn’t as heavy to lift as I thought, Just awkward.

So with the nut fished out, easy after removing the gearbox cover, I still had to put the tractor in the garage down a steep drive. So I  had to reattach the steering temporarily to be able to manoeuvre the tractor back onto it’s snug parking spot in the garage.

So now I’m faced with a choice, put the tractor back together in its current state or option 2, dismantle the parts I’ve removed and paint them in Ferguson grey, fix the leaking steering arm seals, replace the gaskets, renew the control box, spray the dash. But the second choice is going to take a lot more effort and time and It means the tractor will be out of action until it is fixed. I think I’m going to frame the nut with one of the pictures from above.

picture of 15/16″ nut and  Ferguson spanner

picture of 1 1/16″ nut and the same Ferguson spanner

I have secured a quantity of the 1 1/16″ nuts and am offering them for sale.

£ 1.60    Ferguson 5/8″ UNF Nut (quantity 1) Free UK Postage

Go to Order Page

£12 Ferguson 5/8″ UNF Nut (quantity 10) Free UK Postage

Go to Order Page

I always have trouble with spanner sizes and thread sizes so I have also put together this sheet to keep handy in the garage. I’ve printed mine out and have it stuck on the wall in the garage next to the spanners.

Download the sheet here

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/mil-loader-fitting/

I’ve published two Youtube video’s of the days progress on the MIL Loader page

One of the cylinders leaks and I need to replace it or the seals and I need to source some new pins as the previous owner didn’t include them/didn’t forward them on.

If you have a MIL Loader and You’ve got one of these pins please can you send back any information on the sizes.

Download Pin Data Sheet

Send Pin info here

Fred who is restoring a Ferguson 3 Ton trailer asked me if I could help with the side rails that slot into the trailer body. The ones he currently has are rotten and corroded and he wanted to replace them. So he lent me one of his current 12 and I was able to produce a CAD drawing which I got a local company to make. Fred was over the moon with the results. We had one made as a sample to check our sizes, it fits like a glove. The only difference to the original is we’ve made these out of 2.5mm mild steel instead of the 3/32″ or 2.38125mm that is used to be.

Judge for yourself the two side by side are identical.

I’ve been working Like mad on the original Ferguson lower link arms Colin Taylor gave me at the Mullahead plough match at the end of  February. I have now stripped, sanded, primed and painted them. Today I fitted them. The light ran out before I had chance to test my Ferguson tractor jack which is where this all started. Some time ago I bought new replacement lower links for my tractor as the ball ends had dropped out of one of them. (I realise now I could have got replacement ball ends and have them re welded). but I didn’t. So I bought new ones.  The ends of these are thicker then Ferguson lower links which means the later Ferguson tractor Jack to fit the Diesel tractor doesn’t fit the new lower links. So Colin very kindly offered an original ferguson pair.

They look fab and I can’t wait to try them with the Jack. I will also shortly be replacing the inner rear axle oil seals and checking the brakes using the Ferguson jack to lift the tractor. (I will support the tractor once lifted as I’ll be draining the Hydraulic fluid to replace the seals).

And Finally I’ve finished assembling the lighting kit on the front of the tractor. I have been wiring everything up and fitting all the items this week. The main headlight has been in place for a while but joining it are the swing out side lights freshly painted and refurbished.

Disappointingly I broke the bulb in the headlight whilst wiring it up. I’ve asked on the FoFH Forum and I think I can get a replacement.

Even without the main light on the side light still look fabulous.

Part of me is over the moon for getting it all together and it looking great and working first time. Another part of me thinks it is an anticlimax that the searching is over.

Still plenty more to do. I’m going to turn my attention to the back end, seals, paint, mudguards, wheels, types. The other thing I’m trying to do is get the MIL loader fitted to the Beamish Tractor.

measurements 3.5″ x 1.5″  hole centres 3.2″ x 1.2″

This is the plate that was fitted to my Ferguson 2 Furrow Plough. It was badly damaged so I have removed it to source another one.

From the plate you will see the plough is identified with a set of numbers and letters.

10H AE 28 28789

10 – The first number 10 is the furrow width it could also be 8, 12 or 16 inches (single furrow model)

H – The H is for general purpose  bases it could also be G for Lea type boards B for semi digger or C for deep digger as in the single furrow 16 inch. In England we mainly have just the General Purpose type of mouldboards.

AE 28 is the model number from Ferguson.  In the UK parts book there are two part no’s for the main beams and also some bolts depending if the plough is an AE 28 or an AE A28 model

28789 The final part is the serial number of the plough.

There are no written records of plough serial numbers. So it is not possible to  link a plough serial number to a date of manufacture, unlike the tractors.

Information Supplied by  John Morris

Replacement plate.

Some time ago I purchased a replacement plate from Dunlop tractor spares. I wasn’t to impressed with it, the holes didn’t match and it looks nothing like the one it should replace.

I have now seen a company supplying very good copies of the plates and I’m going to contact them to see if they can help.

http://www.vintagebrassplates.co.uk/

And this is what Chris at the vintage brass plate company  sent as his version of the plate. A damn site better than the other one and near to the original. But it comes at a price.

They are the parts I need for the MIL Loader I am trying to fit to the Beamish Tractor in Durham. So how did I end up getting this parcel? Read on…

It all started with this email I received a couple of days ago.

Chris has also sent a couple of pictures of his TE-D20 restoration so far, which is looking great. I hope you finish it soon Chris, then you can start driving it and using it, the fun part!

I just wanted to say a big thank you Chris for sending me the MIL Loader parts for free. I’m going to give them a coat of paint before I try and fit them at Easter.

The MIL Loader page so far can be seen here

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/mil-loader-fitting/

I’m trying to build up a page with all the information you need to fit a MIL Loader because when I tried looking for an online help page there wasn’t one. When I fit the loader those pictures and description will be added too. If you have any pictures or useful information about the MIL Loader please get in touch.

Frank Isn’t on the web I don’t think but can be contacted on 01430 4303

If anyone has any feedback about franks products and any other items he sells then please get in touch.

but I’m not stuck in my ways and I’ll try something new.  I’ve found this site to be of a high quality of posts that are looked at regularly.

So if you have a Ferguson Tractor or implement question start asking now.

http://www.greyfergie.po.gs/phpBB3

I have no idea what the copyright laws are regarding this. The manuals are online and available from someone elses site so I don’t see any harm in telling you they are there. It is up to you and your concionce as to whether you download them or print them out.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/forums/manuals/manuals_index.htm

A whole host of ferguson manuals available from a 1 sided Link Box sheet to full mouldboard plough parts list. 

Some excellent Youtube links to video’s one of the FoFH members spotted.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p52LN_E0luM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p7UlFD5URs

I’m not only rapidly becoming obsessed by all thing Ferguson but I should also add to the obsession a fascination for The Britool tools which where recommended for use on the tractors and implements by the Ferguson Service Department.

I’ve got hold of a 164 page Britool Catalogue No. 102 (1st Edition) listing all there tools. Several of the pages make quite interesting reading.

I’ve added the details of relevant catalogue pages to the Ferguson Tools page of the website.

Cyril Mc Guinness was At Mullahead and a very enthusiastic fella he was. I had A great Chat with him.

He’s been in touch after I forgot his name and he has sent some pictures of his fantastically restored tractors. I see he prefers the Red and Grey to the grey alone. You Have some fantastically tractors Cyril I hope you don’t ming me sharing them with the readers. I can’s wait to see a nice restored grey amongst them.

Pictures of Cyrils’s Tractors

First of all before getting to the plough match I took a detour to meet Harry at his birthplace.

Then onto the plough match where I had a good chance to wonder round chatting to everyone before the generous 11am start time. This man (sorry I forgot your name please email me and tell me) was so friendly. The tractor he is standing in front of he bought for £200 I think or of it wasn’t this one it was one of his others. I kept bumping into him throughout the day and he was having a whale of a time.

Also at the event Was Colin Taylor. If you are a FoFH Forum member you will probably know him better as Cyclops. Colin ploughed half his plot, went to a wedding, came back and finished it off then went to the reception! Thanks for the parts Colin I can’t wait to fit them. Thanks also to his dad who chauffeured me around on a TE-F20.

I would also like to say a big thank you to Fred Dunn. I followed Fred and his plot for most of the day. I missed his open unfortunately.  Fred was great in passing on all his secrets about the plough and the setup and ploughing in general. I hope to share most (but not all) of these nuggets of wisdom with you over the next week or so. Fred does about 20 matches a year so most of his success (he came First or second) is down to practice.  Thanks again Fred.

I did manage to have a little go on the end of Colin’s plot. I just didn’t want to make a fool of myself. I hope to be ploughing again soon so I can put into practice all of the things learned at this plough match.

And finally Well done to Jim Elliott who although being quite useful with a tractor and plough is better with horses.

Jim came first in the High Cut Class, and Best decorated horses and best overall looking horses as well I think. Well done Joyce (his wife) for all the polishing.

More most definitely to follow….

It arrived and ever since I’ve been working out how to print with it and get a good image. I had a go at the wax crayon rubbing. This didn’t work as the image came out backwards. I thought about getting one of those ink blocks you use with a stamp but couldn’t find one big enough.

I eventually found out that at Beamish there is a man on the town street one of the exhibits called Phil the print I don’t think that is his real name but can you guess why he is called Phil the print? Well he operates a shop or office where visitors can look at life before computers and laser printers. Phil kindly inked up the block and had a go at printing with it. Incidentally Phil said the block had never been used as once it has ink on it you will never get it off, even after 50 years. The press he used was an Eagle press for those that are interested.

Now all I have to do is work out what I’m going to do with it and/or how I’m going to put it to work for me? The detail is amazing and just having the block on the coffee table at home is a real talking point.

What would the legality of using this I don’t know. Would I be breaking any copyright laws? It does look amazing though.

As my previous post reported I’ve got involved with Loxley Valley Community Farm. You might of heard of them before as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall visited before Christmas and made a program about their efforts. See Video Here

So I made my list all the things I needed to take with me, Remember to fill up with Diesel, check the oil, water, hydraulics etc. I forgot the tape measure but remembered a couple of ferguson spanners with inches and cm on them not the most accurate  measure but better than nothing .

A couple of days before the weekend I’d collected my Ferguson two furrow plough from Durham where it had last been used. I’m getting very good at taking it apart into small enough pieces to put in the back of the car. I don’t have a trailer or towbar or van or pickup truck. The only disadvantage to this process is the plough needs setting up each time you put it back together.

I met Matt at the gate who I’d emailed a few times previously . Matt is responsible for getting the veg side of the project up and running. We had a chat about where to start and what needed doing.  Once we’d decided where to plough it was on with the job of getting the plough setup correctly as it’s a 10″ plough setting it up so both furrows where 10″ wide and at the same depth.

As this point I was joined by two fellow ferguson enthusiasts Fred and Roy. I was mighty glad fred turned up as he’s done a bit of this Ferguson ploughing before and was amazing to watch and listen to as he helped with the plough setup. All in all we must have been an hour tinkering and fiddling with the plough and tractor to get them setup. Remember we were not after a competition finish as that takes to long. we wanted a decent finish that wouldn’t take to long on the setting up and control whilst ploughing, hopefully we should get a bit more turned over compared to a match.

This was the first time the tractor was put to some hard work after the engine rebuild a year ago. The Diesel engine performed wonderfully and I’m so happy to think I rebuilt it myself with no prior knowledge of engines.

I didn’t plough as much as I wanted as there is still a lot of land left to turn from grassland to cultivated land. Matt has left it open for me to return whenever I can and next time I hope I might get some other tractor owners to help.

I finished off by ploughing 4 rows for Raspberry canes. Matt said it had taken them 2 hours to dig a tenth of the amount the tractor did in 10 mins.

Watch a Movie of the tractor at work

Tim.

A month or so ago I had an email from Mark Whitehouse who is involved int the Loxley Valley Community Farm. www.loxley.co.uk. He got in touch asking if I knew of anyone in Sheffield who would be interested in ploughing some land to start growing crops on. It took all of a second to think of someone who would like to plough 1-2 acres of land with a Ferguson tractor and  two furrow Ferguson plough(you must supply your own tractor and plough). A chance to use my tractor and know I’m getting involved with a local cause, who wouldn’t jump at the chance.

So with a couple of emails back and forward the date of Saturday 20th February was decided upon to have a go. I’ve already been across to have a look at the site.

What took longer than agreeing on a date was agreeing on what should be done to the land. The site at the moment is general grass/weeds. I’m not very up to speed on land cultivation so I asked the FoFH Forum as to what members thought was a good way of preparing the ground to plant crops? “What crops are you planting?” was the most popular reply as the type of crop dictates to some extent what you should do to the ground. For a general preparation  ploughing was the first step. Maybe with a pre topping depending on weed height, them the use of a disc harrow some weeks later followed by a rotovator whenever the weeds appeared.

Grahams article was recommended , http://www.fofh.co.uk/articles/rotavate.htm and duly digested.

As I have a plough but no topper, discs or rotavator and as most of the advice seemed so suggest ploughing as the first option that is what has been decided. I’ll let you know how I get/got on in a later article. But before I start I have to fetch the plough from Durham, Check the tractor for worthiness and find my instruction book on ploughing.

My only worry is that I think there may be one or two spectators on the day. OK as long as they don’t turn into hecklers I’ll let you know how I do.

The advert in Tractor and Machinery says it all really. Don’t expect much from the website though it’s panty.

I have friends who have been for the the last couple of years and they all say it was fab. So I got a flight for £26, it’s bonkers I couldn’t get a ferry for that price. I also know someone competing in the high cut horse class.

I’m really looking forward to the Ferguson class as the Irish go in for their Fergusons in a big way. I was going to meet Colin a friend there he was also set to compete But he’s double booked himself and has to go to a wedding instead.  It’s a shame as I was going to pickup some parts from him for the tractor. 2 new (old, original) ferguson lower link arms. The clip that holds the power cable from battery to starter motor, there was also a fuel filter top casting as I knackered the thread on mine when i was reassembling it.

I hope there is a way I can still get hold of the parts. I can operate the jack with the new link arms, stop the leaking fuel with the filter top and position the battery cable correctly.

I’m going to be twittering or tweeting on the day, 27th Feb so you can keep up with my day.

I actually prefer them like this. The manul has seen some life, the part numbers have been penned in to update them with MF numbers instead of the original Ferguson part numbers, and the loose page was actually an suplementary page for some of the parts.

Other Links.

I thought you might all be sick of reading my ramblings so I’ve got some links to other Ferguson restoration sites and a forum.

Late last year I was lucky enough to purchase a very good copy of a Ferguson tractor cover. The pattern had been taken from an original cover. There was however one thing missing. It had the Ferguson logo printed on both sides, It had cord to hold the cover down around the tractor, It ever had panels of soft cotton inside so the side lights would not get scratched. Missing was a slot at the end of the bonnet with a pocket to take the single headlight. I of course on my tractor have such a headlight. So the cover has been draped half heartedly over the tractor until now.

Yesterday I visited the person who sold me the cover and I took a pattern from his original cover which DOES have the pocket in.

Tonight I’ve been eagerly turning that paper template into a trial version of the light cover. I hope to make or have made a canvas version once I’m happy with the dimensions.

The start:

I found an old shirt with a whole in the arm that I wear whilst in the garage. Ideal for the job of being cut up and used as trial fabric.

The Pattern:

I cut out the panels to match the measurement I tool last night. The front is one panel, the back is in 3 pieces to match the curved shape of the back of the 7″ diameter FT57 lamp.

Stitching:

The three back panels have been stitched together first from the middle out to make them symetrical.

Finished Stitching:

Now the back is stitced on as well. The cover is inside out as the moment.

Trial:

With the cover turned inside out so all the stiching is on the inside I tried the cover, it fits. The only change, I think I will allow more material all the way round the templates to allow for stitching but on the whole I’m please with this first attempt. now I have to find som canvers similar to the cover, unpick the stiching in the cover and sow the finished lamp pocket in.

15/01/2009 Update

I’ve updated the template and made all panels 1/2″ bigger to allow room for a seams to be added. The cover made from thin cotton is a snug fit so with stiff canvas the light might not have fitted over.

I’ve taken the cover and template to:
M & N Canvas Service LTD

They say it will take about a week to carry out the modifications. I was also told visually the new canvas will look brighter.

29/01/2010 Update

I’ve got the cover back and it looks fab. It’s not 100% as I wanted it but it’s close. The colour difference is the most noticeable  think at the moment. I also had my pocket larger than the normal/original one as the normal size tends to be to tight.

Here  is an original cover and pocket.

link to more reading on the Britool / Ferguson Tools

http://www.ploughmyfield.com/ferguson-tools/

A question from a reader, This one is way beyond me. Anyone out there have any suggestions for Ben.

Hi there, 
I found your site online and would like to know if you can recommend a time for plowing an olive field and do you have any recommendations on techniques. i.e. is it right to comb the top soil after?
Many thanks 
Ben

Yes I am still alive,  just.
I don’t know about you but I could have done with one of these over the past week where I live!

Have you made any new years resolutions?
I have, my resolution is to concentrate on one task at a time and put all your effort into it. 2010 will be the year for making lists and finishing off all the outstanding jobs before moving onto anything new. But if I find that 3 ton trailer for a bargain or a tractormeter going for a song then I will probably be tempted.

If your waiting for a numberplate order I’m sorry for the wait, I have sent out a load yeasterday and more to send tomorrow.

Martin is not quite ready to fit his numberplate bracket just yet, see photo above. Martin has sent in a picture of his current restoration, it looks like a nut and bolt stripdown. The engine looks rebuilt with the hydraulics still needing some work as the side access covers aren’t on yet. It’s looking very good and yet again I’m amazed at the fantastic workshop Martin has. Oh what I’d give for that much room. On the bench on the right of the picture you can see the numberplate bracket waiting to be fitted. Martin has just ordered a ploughlamp bracket now they are available again. Keep up the enthusiasm Martin, once the engine is working it’s an amazing boost and really spurs you on. I hope you get some time over Christmas to do a bit more.

René’s TE-F20 restoration
I started tinkering with engines with my cousin when I was around 14. We started with Briggs and Straton lawnmower engines of different types and also had a go at a wolsely 5Hp twin flywheel air cooled engine (these appear to be rare as hens teeth !) However we where getting quite bored with the B&S engines so we bought an 1950/51 TE-D20.

After finishing the restoration of a TE-D20 with my cousin I wanted to get a diesel version of the same tractor as I felt the TED representing the spark ignition engines and the diesel being the opposite with it’s compression ignition engine.

The search was on through friends it lead me to a farmer nearby who had one. He bought it to power a water canon without paying to much attention. So when he got home he found it had a small PTO shaft and that it only got up to 800 RPM flat out !. As it din’t work to well he was willing to sell it to me. Unfortunately by then it had done hours and hours of running flat out…. I also told him that buying a 35 or a dexta would only eliminate the PTO size problem
so he should be looking for something from 1970 and onwards if it where to have any chance of having a 1000Rpm PTO.

I drove it to a farmer friend of mine where it was to stay until I found room for it. A few years passed before I did. I bought a 20 foot shipping container to restore it in. My uncle had the space to put it to the rear of his business buildings in the grass field. I specifically bought this container because it was higher than most and significantly higher inside which allowed to fit an over head crane without hitting my head every now and again.
This has been build from I beams and an electric 125Kg winch with added pulley’s to reduce the lift speed and increase the load capacity a bit. It will lift 500Kg now as long as I don’t stop mid-lift.

First thing was to blast it clean with the high pressure washer so I took of the hood and tank to get good access to the engine. The engine was then detached and put on top of my workbench. This was the first time I had a good look at it at eye level. Unfortunately that revealed a crack in the block of around 5 inches at the bottom of the water gallery. I then went about sourcing a pre ’54 block (without the lift pump) to match the tractor. I did find one quite easily with only two months difference in casting date.

Stripping the engine was shocking. It still ran regularly as diesels should with a bit low oil pressure but that was to be expected. However the hours on the water pump running flat out had taken the last bit from the bearing shells. Apart from two tiny patches on the joins there was only copper left !. The crank I got with the replacement engine was
not reground ever so I had that reground to avoid taking the original crank to it’s third undersize. The replacement engine was fitted with the original camshaft as it was a tighter fit than the one that was in it.

I fitted new piston, rings and liners and a set of 1st undersize bearings. Also new where the timing chain, oil pump rotors, valves & guides, valve springs (outers only, I could source correct inners), injector nozzles, fuel pump seal and governor diaphragm. I had the cylinder head overhauled professionally as it needed new guides and re-cutting the
valve seats. The oil pump body I machined down on my lathe to reset the axial play to it’s normal tolerance. I fully re-timed the engine while it was on the bench. That allowed me to set the pump at an especially pleasing angle by working out the setting angles on the flywheel to eliminate the rotation of the pump after timing it to the datum point.

It was then put back in it’s place for a test run. That proved that I had provided a TEA/D top tank for the radiator when I had one made from two with a re-core. The problem was solved by looping a long hose for the test run and later corrected by having a TEF tank fitted. The engine was fired up without to much difficulty and ran like a swiss
sewing machine !

I then set about taking the rest of the tractor apart. In the middle of that we managed to hire a unit of a small business building next door so all the stuff was moved there. That included another shipping container, all the tractors and all the part we had stored all over the place. We means me, my dad and my uncle with my cousin. We had by that time a TED20, MF35 4 cylinder, FE35 TVO basic, Deutz 6206 and a Hanomag Robust901AS. All was moved and the restoration was halted while we set up our new place. Both containers where put in a corner of the unit and a seccond floor put on them. There we stored the implements and stationary engines we also have.

Resuming the rebuild. The gearbox was found to be in good condition but bearings where worn. They where however still perfect so I would try and re-use them. Unfortunatly I had to source a replacement housing as this one was corroded badly. In Holland most finger bar cutters on TE’s are made by Schukken and these bolt to the engine to gearbox bolts. That causes these bolts to destroy the alloy because of the shaking and the fact that in most cases no galvanic corrosion agent was used when the bolts where replaced. As I had a high lift loader to go on it again I needed it to
be strong. I found that of the 12 threaded holes 8 where destroyed. So the plan was to re-tap these with oversize UNC and then loctite in UNC bolts. I went in with 3 sizes larger than would have been there without using a drill !. Next the bolts where loctited in place and hack-sawed almost flush. Grinding them flush would not do as the surface needs to be perfect. So I took the gearbox case to the engine engineers to have it skimmed. They had just installed a new larger machine that could cope with the height of it stood upright and made a fine job of it.

I then set about fitting the shafts without shims to see if I could solve the bearing wear by re-shimming alone. I found I could get it ok but only with no shims on the main shaft. So I stuck the bearing retainer in the lathe and skimmed off the same amount as was taken of the gearbox housing. That allowed to fit shims to accurately set
the pre-load again. The same was done to the lay-shaft. The reverse shaft had seen the gear wearing down the protrusion in the casing for lack of a thrust washer on one side of it. I made one to fit the gap (several mm !) from bronze stock.

The rear end had the driving pinion bearings re-set to the correct pre-load and the crown wheel bolt where replaced. I found a PTO shaft with very little wear to replace the badly worn one and the rear axle seals where all replaced. To facilitate that I build the puller as described in the workshop manual and also made a set of drills longer than the half shafts to drill through the collars. One of the bearing housings was also skimmed in the lathe as it was distorted and would probably not have sealed. Brake shoes where fitted with new old-stock asbestos linings. These are perfect!.

The hydraulic pump was fitted with new O-rings and all the pivot pins in the internal linkage replaced by oversized ones I made to take up the play. The cross shaft was badly worn. I welded on material and then lathed it down to it’s correct size again. It was re-fitted with new bushes. It’s now hard to turn by hand where as before you could see the play in it !. New triangular plate was fitted and I made up a new sleeve to go with the new old stock plunger I got hold of. That sorted out the top link.

The front end was overhauled. New king pins and bushes, new pivot pin and new ball joints on the drag links.All bit’s where cleaned and primed as they where worked on. All the bit’s needed to drive it where put together and it does drive like a new tractor !.

At this time work’s halted again as we extended the second floor in the building and I had to work on my car for a bit. Also I managed to buy a MF1200 which I wanted for years now. It’s in bad shape but very early at No. 900008 which
is the 8th 1200 of the line. Engine was rusted solid and the main drive shaft splines are AWOL. I can’t have a big lump sitting there as it won’t steer without a running engine so that needs sorting before I can resume work on the TEF again. I did get the dash sorted, welded up some holes and got the tension of the welding out whilst waiting on some details and bits for the 1200.

Regards,

René.

Pictures of René’s restoratin
René’s TE-F20 restoration

Thank you for taking the time to write your story down.I’m sure everyone wishes you the best of luck with the MF1200.

I’ve been producing the numberplate bracket for some time now and I get some excellent feedback from customers. I had an enquiry from Belgium some time ago, maybe a year, asking for a numberplate bracket for the left wing of the tractor. I’m not sure if a left handed version of the bracket was ever made by Lucas for the tractor. If you have a picture or any information to support this then please get in touch.

As a trial I have had a small batch produced to see if there is any demand.  So if you drive on the right and you’d like a sort of original Lucas wing mounted numberplate bracket take a look at the shop.

http://ploughmyfield.com/SMNPH.htm

Plough Lamp Brackets

I have also finally managed to find a company that can produce plough lamp brackets. I think I am the only person selling plough lamp brackets to the original Lucas Design of one piece of metal folded and welded. most other plough lamp brackets  consist of two shapes welded together. I presume they do this for cost of manufacture.

http://ploughmyfield.com/SMNPH.htm

No I’m not about to restore a Ferguson armchair or any other armchair for that matter. It’s just that I feel like I’m an armchair restorer at the moment.

My wife’s grandmother is moving house and I couldn’t let the 7 Raaco storage units that she no longer has space for go to waste, especially as they are all full of imperial nuts, bolts tools, drills etc. Oh and by the way I don’t have space for them either. So the garage has been in a state for a couple of weeks. I’m keen to get in and finish off the wiring loom for the front portion of the Lucas lighting kit. (see lighting loom post below) but it’s all just a bit of a mess. Somewhere under this lot there is a Ferguson tractor!

So I used a computer program to try some examples of changing the garage layout around. Using the computer is the fastest easiest way I know how to do this. I can also guarantee it’s all going to fit, as long as I measured it right in the first place.

New Garage layout - Will it ever look that tidy?

Once I was happy with the new layout I started work on Saturday night (wife out me baby sitting) moving thinks around. I came to using the drill to start fixing things to the wall, I pressed the button but nothing from the drill after years of faithful service. After taking it apart, (all those years of taking things apart finally paid off as this one came apart no problem) deducing it was the motor at fault, searching the internet for a replacement drill or motor, I thought I had nothing to loose by trying to fix it myself. Three hours later and two small wooden wedges to stop the magnets in the motor rotating the drill was working again and I’d saved £150 for a new drill.

With a fixed drill I had another go on Sunday and it went a lot better. I’m now half way through the move and I’ve finally found the tractor underneath everything! The drill hasn’t played up since. I must actually be OK at restoring things then.

On the armchair front It’s all to east to sit and watch tractor DVD’s at the moment with some great titles about. Currently in my player is the Tractor Restoration:Paintwork DVD by Alan Davies, Published by Old Pond Publishing.  (see review in another post) I’m waiting for the weather to get a little warmer before attempting any of the  items covered by the DVD.

My copy of Restoring a Massey Ferguson 135 DVD is on its way from www.reborntractor.net so more armchair work to put in soon. I see they have released some more snippets from the DVD on their YouTube site. I’m particularly interested in this one about brakes as it’s something I have to do on mine, hopefully this winter.

I made one small addition to mine, a connector at the bottom of the bonnet so I could disconnect the wires when removing the bonnet without having to remover the whole loom. It seems as though the bonnet has to be removed before working on anything to do with the engine!

To keep to the authentic Lucas colour scheme I looked around and rather than buy 10m drums or spools of all the colours needed (very expensive) I bought 10m of 7 core trailer wire. The only extra I needed was a reel of purple. I went for 10m as even though I worked out I only needed 3m of the longest wire when ordering the cost of shipping was the main factor and I was bound to mess it up and have to start again.

Raw Materials

I checked to see the current rating for the wire before ordering.

Power = Current x Voltage,

Power/Voltage = Current,

or  116watts (all light on at once front and Back) /12 volts = 10Amps.

The wire I bought was rated at 16amps.

So I set to work following the pattern I had made already out of string.

Bare Loom

Once made before adding connectors or heat shrink to seal the wires I tested the loom out on the tractor.

Wires Behind Dashboard

Wires To the Bonnet

There was only one modification to make, that being to the length of the earth to the fuel tank mounting bolt.

Once I was happy with the wires I covered then in an outer sleeve to protect them. and add the connectors. At this point I cut the loom into two sections Bonnet and Tractor with a connector between them.

Loom Cut Into Two

Wire End Connectors

Next stage complete

Finally for the wires I reenforced the section that passes from tractor to bonnet and tidied everything up. I still haven’t found a steel armoured length so I have used plastic for the time being.

Finished Loom

There was a pipe the cables ran in along the side of the engine I presume to spot them overheating or getting oily? I’m making mine out of copper tube. It is painted it just needs fixing to the side of the engine.

On this picture the cable conduit can be seen running along about where the cylinder head gasket is. It has wires coming out of the front. This is from Mike’s tractor where I got one of the swing out side light arms from

I have also stripped the side lights and am in the process of giving them a new coat of paint, new bolts, new cork gaskets and new side lights.

Side Arms Being Painted

Thank you Jerry who emailed in with this link to a vintage car spares company who I think sellsgalvenised flexible steel sleeving suitable for carrying the cables to the bonnet. I thin one of the larger sizes 12mm could also be useful for replacing the lead to the strater from the battery

http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/list+electrical~sleeving/

Five days and counting (well from when I posted this) Until the Reborn tractor MF135 restoration DVD is available. After over 14,000 hits on their website in October alone I anticipate demand for the DVD to be high. I’ll be ordering my DVD and I can’t wait to see how they have got on. All I’ve seen so far has been the tantalising snippets on the website and pictures on Flickr.com. The team seem keen to promote the ups and downs of the restoration process a touch which I’m sure will lend great honesty to the whole thing. Sometimes it’s better passing on what you get wrong and would do differently next time that means more than the things you got right.

Stephen the producer did also mention in his email about the release that if all goes well they may look at restoring another tractor and they would let the readers decide on the tractor. If this happens I’ll be voting for A TE-20 and getting you lot to do the same.

Order your copy from friday at www.reborntractor.net

www.1260engineer.com

On the saturday when we attended there was an auction at 11am. We arrived early to look round to see if anything was worth bidding on. There was lots of Ferguson items ploughs, some TE-20′s and other parts. there was nothing that took our fancy so we didn’t bid. On the Sunday there was an Old Sodbury sortout, a sort of car boot sale for tractors. I didn’t know anyone going on the sunday so I on’y know if it was a success of not, whether there where ant bargains.

Although advertised as an outdoor even the majority of the tractors where inside or under tents. So after our first cup of tea of many we made a start on working our way round. Being veteran Newark goers we knew the format. We started of in the … hall but before we got there some fab MF’s where waiting at the entrance.

Unusual auction item

Nice 135 industrial

French built 130

How clean is that engine

I loved this Ferguson 40

The FERGUSONCLUB stand

Single rib tyres originally fitted to the early TE-20′s These I think are reproductions

New for this year a marque connection the two main halls

What a finish, Will mine ever look like this?

Narrow Plough/ridger for working between the raspberry canes

And the tractor to pull the ridger was also narrow

I love the badge

Shortened back axles. the Reekie conversion used normal 28″ wheels. the ferguson narrow was longer than normal and used 24″ rear wheels as the Reekie’s where prone to tipping over on slopes

A fine ferguson display by an Ayrshire group

Adjustable toplink

Plough front furrow adjuster I’d love one of these for my plough

My next purchase. I’ll need a bigger garage.

If you are going to Newark at the weekend I’ll see you there on Saturday.

http://www.newarkshowground.com/nvts_home.htm
If however you can’t make make it but you’ll be near your computer I’ll be “twittering” or “tweeting” all day.

Twitter is a micro blogging website it allows you to make a post of 140 characters  to your hmepage to keep people up to date with what you are doing on a minute by minute basis. I have seen posts with messages like “I’m just getting on the train” or “I’m just sitting on the loo” I won’t be making any such posts but I will be posting throughout the day whilst at Newark any interesting snippets, weather and general goings on at the show.

My twitter site is http://twitter.com/@ploughmyfield

This came to my attention on the FoFH Forum and I wanted to share it with as many people as possible so that they have the chance to watch it before it becomes unavailable.

On Monday 2nd November this documentary was first shown on the BBC about Harry Ferguson and his flying career.

It is available until 9th November to watch again on the iplayer or to download and watch withing 30 days. It was a really interesting program giving a good insight into the man and his little known by me, flying past.  This isn’t available to people outside the UK I don’t think.

Link Here to the Documentary

I have spent a few days in the lake district with my family getting away from it all. It seems my tractor spotting obsession followed me. It has become apparent that tractors have got under my skin and into my veins. I couldn’t resist taking a few snaps of this very original looking TE-F20. I didn’t find its serial number but it has a lift pump. I think the cab is a later addition as it has all the lighting kit on the back including plough lamp bracket.

Usually only a Horse ploughing match, this year Beamish decide to show what replaced horses on the farm. Enter me. I was asked to demonstrate using the museums TE-A20 (TVO converted) Ferguson and my 2 Furrow plough. I had so much fun. A big thank you to Beamish for letting me be there.

The day started very much earlier than the opening picture. I Had travelled up from Sheffield the day before and spent the evening chatting to the plough match competitors. I was told it was a very friendly sort of an event.  At about 7:30am I made my way to where the tractor was stored. Why did I get up so early when the ploughing didn’t star until 10:30am. I had to build my plough before I could use it.

Armed only with two trusty Ferguson spanners and a pot of grease It took about an hour to put the whole thing back together. I’m glad I remembered to  take a couple of pictures of it all assembled to know how to reassemble it from pieces.

Not bad for £75 Well that’s what I paid for it originally. I’d struggle to get one as good for £275 now. The mouldboards and skimmers and coulters are covered in grease from the last time I used the plough It is not rust on them.

Ferguson Tractor Jack

With the plough assembled with plenty of time to spare I could experiment with the Ferguson Tractor Jack I had bought as Auction a couple of months earlier. I can’t remember why I only bought the back section. I have the front. With the right lower links fitted to the tractor (the original lwer links not new replacements like my tractor) it was easy to attach the jack.

So then the moment of truth the lift. Needless to say it all went according to plan both back wheels off the ground ready to either change the wheels or alter the track width.

It works and it works so well. You can see a movie below of the lowering process.

With the Tractor filled with TVO it was off to the plough field.

First Job marking out. one stake at either end and one in the middle. I measured from the next plot over about 15ft. I’m not sure in a real plough competition what this distance should be. I was on the start of a row and was only ploughing as a demonstration.

I am not sure what happened the as I made several passes up and down the field but somehow in the excitement and concentration I forgot to get off the tractor and take some pictures.

I was following the opening on Stubble start as recommended by the ferguson manual. opening on Stubble

This is a marke cotrat to opening on Grass. opening on Grass

So the first time I remembered to take some pictures I had completed the “Open”.

More to follow tomorrow night

My reply

Hi Richard,

Glad you like the site,

would it be OK to publish the email you sent on the website with the pictures you supplied?

Please send more pictures of all of those special accessories for your ferguson you mentioned.
I know it’s a subject all the readers are interested in.

can we have some upclose pictures of the wiring for the lighting Kit please. Where it goes inside the bonnet, where it goes along the engine, at the back of the dash, to the back mudguard.

Regards

Tim.

Richard  sent some more pictures back. I don’t think the plough lamp or number plate bracket is wired up as i can’t see any of the wires.