Archive for the ‘MAKE’ Category

* Original Mudguards

Posted on September 22nd, 2016 by ploughmyfield. Filed under MAKE.

***This is work in progress. the article will be updated as time allow***

When I bought my tractor I had no idea the mudguards fitted to it were not original. Once I did discover the unoriginality, I started to think about what would be the best way to make them original. The first Idea I had was to buy some old rotten wings remove the frame from the sheet metal and then re-skin them. I duly bought a set of old wings. I soon leant that at the top and two places at the bottom of each “Fender” (The Amaerican word for them) were riveted together  through frame and skin and not bolted. The decision then, should I look for the correct size rivets, heat them up and once in place hammer them flat as the originals are. What if I couldn’t get any rivets would I have to make some?  No, what if I could get hold of an original set of mudguards. But surely an original set in good condition would be very hard to find? The above thought process has taken about 10 years to evolve to the point today where I have recently purchased fantastic set of very original looking mudguards.




I would love to have known what tractor they can off. With the markings they look as though a cab may have been fitted over the top or something else attached to them. Some of the bolts were also loose.


Work Today

I am now at the stage of adding the assorted brackets and fixings that where supplied as part of the Cyclops lighting set. So why on earth would I pay all that money for an original set of wings and then the first act is removing one of the prized rivets?


It is unfortunately necessary to attach the plough lamp bracket, as a bolt not a rivet must go through.


I covered the area with tape to protect it from damage. Then there was nothing other to do than get the angle grinder out and talk off the head.


With little damage I popped the rivet out. Worse was still to come. I now had to drill a new hole next to it to through the skin and frame for the second bolt. The hole was added all fine with no problems.



Next to attach the bracket that holds the number plate. This was an easier part to fit as the bolt holes are already there. It was just a matter of undoing the two existing original bolts without damaging them. Again mission accomplished and the configuration was starting to look good. You will notice in the next picture the light for the number plate. I have moved the light to a position above the number plate. please see my other post here as to why.


I found this great cheap source for the cable conduit. 5M is enough to get from the back of the tractor to the front. It also fits through the hole in the casting half way along the tractor. The wire (Red) then fits inside. When using a wire you need a minimum of a 10AMP rating to carry the current to the lights.


Remaining tasks.

  • Attach plough lamp (first make hole larger)
  • Make up cable from number plate light to cross over switch.
  • Attach number plate
  • secure cable to the number plate bracket in two places.
  • strip down and paint – reassemble
  • Attach mudguards
  • Run cable along tractor
  • Create and attach clips to hold the cable in place down the side of the tractor
  • Test

Update1 [20/09/2016]

The additional parts have been painted and everything reassembled with the larger cable protection (OD of about 7mm)

I think it looks a really professional job, maybe not completely original. Some of the clips are new and the cable protection is certainly up-spec’ed from the original. Still to do is fit the mudguards to the tractor run the wire down the right hand side of the gearbox and wire to the switch. I’ve tested the connection electrically and all is working so far.







Below is a test for suitability of the wire conduit that passes from the light switch behind the dashboard to the number plate bracket on the right rear mudguard.

between the tractor gearbox and back end the wire must pass through a hole in the castings.



I can’t help thinking the cable should be bigger and the wire thicker than 10Anp rated.


* Chains & Linkages

Posted on September 10th, 2016 by ploughmyfield. Filed under MAKE.


I wandered into this subject “Chains & Linkages” a number of years ago when I purchased a top link with the original chain holding the linkage pin and linch pin to it (item 13 in the above picture). The chain was to fragile to use so I gathered together a suitable replacement.



Below is a link to my original articles.

The article that started it all off:
The follow up Article:
My interest in this particular area was reignited about a month ago when I received, through the post, the August 2016, Issue 77 of Ferguson Furrow. A quarterly publication put out to members of Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America (FENA for short).
On page 20 there started a 3 page article with photographs detailing the construction of all of the linkage pins, chains and brackets for all the items you see in the first picture at the top of this article. Whilst perusing the “Gots ‘n Wants” section at the back of the magazine I notices for sale NOS (New old Stock)No. 3 straight link machine chain sold by the foot. I contacted the seller asking his willingness to ship said item to the UK. An email conversation then developed. I have always had a problem trying to find the brackets attached to the lower link arms that hold the implement linch pins in (item 19 above) all the tractors I have measured have a gap between riveted centres of 1.1/4″ and all the reproduction brackets I’ve seen for sale have holes drilled or stamped at 1.1/4″ centres. So imagine my utter confusion and dismay at buying a set to find they did not fit my tractors lower link arm rivet holes. Who, well the hole centres on my tractor measure 1″ exactly.
In the conversation with Robert Sybrandy who was selling the chain by the foot, who also was the author of the article in the FENA magazine, I asked if he could source a bracket with 1″ hole spacings. The answer, he could. It turns out that a Ford 9N has lower link arms with drilled holes at 1″ centres. So the only conclusion I can draw is that my tractor has fitted at some point in its life with lower link arms from a Ford 9N and not a 1954 Feguson TEF-20.
I arranged to buy 10 feet of chain and the brackets from Bob and the money had transferred I sat back and waited for the package to arrive. It has now safely arrived, afar only a week or so and looks like the picture below when I unpacked it. A most excellent job of packing.

It now remains for me to assemble the 8 links of chain, one end connected through the linch pin, the other into the “S”clip then attached to the hole in each bracket. I’m hoping the rivets go into the holes on the lower link arms without to much effort, chain facing backwards towards the implement. That will bring to a close another chapter in the restoration of my tractor.

Once fitted to the tractor I’ll post the pictures here. shouldn’t be to long a wait.


“And what” I hear you cry ” will you do with the other nine and a half feet of chain you have left?” Well the Front Brackets need chain for their pins and I’ll keep the rest just in case.

If you’d like to contact Robert (Bob) Sybrandy his email address is r_sybrandy at I found him very helpful and knowledgeable about this topic.


I’ve got the linkage assembly assembled and it looks like this. Seen here with a layer of primer on.


And yes, it does fit the holes on the tractor’s  lower links. There is enough room for the rivets to go through the holes.

For my next decision, do I heat up the rivets before I hammer the heads down to keep them in place or do I try to hit them when cold? they will whatever way I attach them need painting once in place.





* Number Plate Bracket Plans

Posted on September 9th, 2016 by ploughmyfield. Filed under MAKE.


This article is probably the most requested email I get. How can I get hold of the plans for a wing mounted number plate bracket?

I’ve been reluctant until now to post the plans as I thought I might have a go at making them again. I have to little time and other projects I’d rather be doing, so I thought it was about time to post the information.

The design consists of two pieces.

The first is simply a flat plate about A4 size. originally this would have had the number plate painted onto it (white letters on a black background)


The second shape is more complex and requires accurate folding. One of the resons for supplying the information for this in a flat form is that it can be folded either way offering a right handed (for UK road) and a left hand (for Europe) below you see the UK bracket folds accordingly.


DXF files to download

Download the files as DXF for cutting on a laser of Plasma machine: download the DXF files here

It is also my intension to produce a PDF drawing of the basic dimensions for people to print out and cut round.

PDF files to download

Download the files as PDF documents. please be aware the paper size is A2 and A3. if you have an A4 printer print sections out at full size 1:1 and then stick them together to produce a full size sheet to draw round. Happy cutting and sticking.

Fabrication Information

Bracket flat pattern

Plate flat pattern


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