* Original Mudguards

Posted on September 22nd, 2016 by ploughmyfield. Filed under MAKE.

***This is work in progress. the article will be updated as time allow***

When I bought my tractor I had no idea the mudguards fitted to it were not original. Once I did discover the unoriginality, I started to think about what would be the best way to make them original. The first Idea I had was to buy some old rotten wings remove the frame from the sheet metal and then re-skin them. I duly bought a set of old wings. I soon leant that at the top and two places at the bottom of each “Fender” (The Amaerican word for them) were riveted together  through frame and skin and not bolted. The decision then, should I look for the correct size rivets, heat them up and once in place hammer them flat as the originals are. What if I couldn’t get any rivets would I have to make some?  No, what if I could get hold of an original set of mudguards. But surely an original set in good condition would be very hard to find? The above thought process has taken about 10 years to evolve to the point today where I have recently purchased fantastic set of very original looking mudguards.




I would love to have known what tractor they can off. With the markings they look as though a cab may have been fitted over the top or something else attached to them. Some of the bolts were also loose.


Work Today

I am now at the stage of adding the assorted brackets and fixings that where supplied as part of the Cyclops lighting set. So why on earth would I pay all that money for an original set of wings and then the first act is removing one of the prized rivets?


It is unfortunately necessary to attach the plough lamp bracket, as a bolt not a rivet must go through.


I covered the area with tape to protect it from damage. Then there was nothing other to do than get the angle grinder out and talk off the head.


With little damage I popped the rivet out. Worse was still to come. I now had to drill a new hole next to it to through the skin and frame for the second bolt. The hole was added all fine with no problems.



Next to attach the bracket that holds the number plate. This was an easier part to fit as the bolt holes are already there. It was just a matter of undoing the two existing original bolts without damaging them. Again mission accomplished and the configuration was starting to look good. You will notice in the next picture the light for the number plate. I have moved the light to a position above the number plate. please see my other post here as to why.


I found this great cheap source for the cable conduit. 5M is enough to get from the back of the tractor to the front. It also fits through the hole in the casting half way along the tractor. The wire (Red) then fits inside. When using a wire you need a minimum of a 10AMP rating to carry the current to the lights.


Remaining tasks.

  • Attach plough lamp (first make hole larger)
  • Make up cable from number plate light to cross over switch.
  • Attach number plate
  • secure cable to the number plate bracket in two places.
  • strip down and paint – reassemble
  • Attach mudguards
  • Run cable along tractor
  • Create and attach clips to hold the cable in place down the side of the tractor
  • Test

Update1 [20/09/2016]

The additional parts have been painted and everything reassembled with the larger cable protection (OD of about 7mm)

I think it looks a really professional job, maybe not completely original. Some of the clips are new and the cable protection is certainly up-spec’ed from the original. Still to do is fit the mudguards to the tractor run the wire down the right hand side of the gearbox and wire to the switch. I’ve tested the connection electrically and all is working so far.







Below is a test for suitability of the wire conduit that passes from the light switch behind the dashboard to the number plate bracket on the right rear mudguard.

between the tractor gearbox and back end the wire must pass through a hole in the castings.



I can’t help thinking the cable should be bigger and the wire thicker than 10Anp rated.

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