* Spill Timing

Posted on May 5th, 2009 by ploughmyfield. Filed under TE-F20 Rebuild.


I took the tractor out for a first proper run.
I was disappointed. It isn’t running correctly, by that I mean after you have started the tractor it is reving very highly and I am unable to get it to tick over. There is a lack of power as I move the throttle lever down whilst driving along. The first thought was to change the length of the control rod that come from the throttle on the dashboard to the pump. This didn’t work and even screwing in the rod to its shortest position did not make the tractor tick over any slower.
At this point I reached for help in the form of a question to the FoFH Forum. (If you do any tinkering with your ferguson tractor and you’re not a member , you should be!)
The feedback I got all points to the spill timing as the point to start. Another problem the tractor is having is the black soot or smoke from the exhaust. Again black smoke represents a timing issue.
This seemed the most comprehensive list from a user called Jón

Idling speed adjustment.
( DO NOT rotate fuel pump for that)
The idling speed is controlled by the horizontal screw in the venturi body on the intake manifold .(the piece on which the rubber hose from the air filter is attached)
Warm up engine, fully close throttle ,slacken off the lock nut of the idling speed adjuster ,on the venturi body and with the throttle fully closed adjust screw until engine speed is between 440-495 r.p.m.(P.T.O. 160–180 r.p.m)Thighten lock nut.
If you rotate the pump to adjust idle you will change the spill timing which is critical to the exact degree given in the manual.
Here are two points regarding the spill timing .There are two positions depending on engine serial number if pre 109124 it is 32° BTDC if post 109124 it is 26° BTDC
Here are the possible causes for black smoke
1) Air supply restricted— Check air filter, guess you did that
2) Excessive fuel injected max. fuel stop out of adjustment or pump incorrectly calibrated. (this means to take the pump to certified shop, definitely not DIY job ) guess you had the pump served ?
3) Injectors not functioning correctly — Guess you had them served for a rebuild.
4) Spill timing incorrect, Spill timing is critical but you can carry it out if you have the service manual available. After that NO rotation of pump to correct for errors of any kind, or engine running problems.
5) Poor compression –not likely on a new rebuild !
6) Fuel syphoning from Kigass tank, that´s possible. I had this problem, –reason: leaking check valves in the Kigass pump.
You can probably eliminate most of these causes on your rebuilt engine except may be the spill timing and Kigass. Was that done by the manual ? which it definitely should be.
And congratulations with your “new” engine, certainly hope you get rid of the “bugs”
Cheers

Jón

I’m overwhelmed by the method to set the timing. I didn’t pay that much attention to this when rebuilding so I don’t think I’ve done it correctly as well as the fact I have to remove the front axle, remove the timing cover and the rocker cover.
I find the Ferguson User Manual confusing to follow to set the spill timing. Again I asked on the forum and had this very detailed response from René.

Hello Tim,

The re-timing is possible without removing major parts but very tough to do
without the proper tool. It can also mean you end up with the pump on a funny angle.

I made the tool required for a “vernier coupling” as it’s called in the manual. It’s the
splined inside as well as outside “bush” that’s in the pump drive. I skimmed of the outside
splines in my lathe and welded a piece of pipe and a T-bar on to it. Now I can turn the
pump drive as it is shown in the manual. Without this you need to turn the entire engine
to perform the “spill cut off” timing on the pump. If you want to take a crack at doing that :

For 32º BTCD timing the pump must be rotated on it’s flange edge 0.863 mm or .034″
I therefore suggest you set the pump at appropriate angle that allows fitting all pipes easily
and then take those off. Mark the pump flange and engine distribution case. Then rotate
the pump the required amount anti-clockwise (from drivers seat). Next set up a the swan
necked pipe and do the spill timing. Leave the setup in place. With the pump set at this
position remove the “vernier” coupling and rotate the engine two revolutions to place the
1/4 bar in the timing hole in the flywheel. Make sure that the pump does not rotate while
doing this. Then insert the “vernier” coupling. It is splined with one spline difference
between inside and outside so a position will need to be found that allows inserting it by
rotating the coupling a spline at a time. With the coupling in remove the 1/4″ bar and
rotate the engine two revolutions. As you approach the position at which the 1/4″ bar can be re-inserted check the spill timing. It should be exactly on the point you can insert the bar.
If not start again. If ok you rotate the pump until the marks made earlier are in line to set
it for 32º.

Regards,

René.

Now I’m sure if someone showed me how to do this it would be really easy, but to follow the instructions I just can’t imagine it and I think that’s half the battle. It just seems really complicated. Can someone use the pipe from injector 1 as the “swan neck” pipe?

Full FoFH Tick Over Forum transcript here

Read Geoff’s Spill Timing article here lots of images but could do with more. It seems easier to follow with pictures.
http://workshop.tractorbit.co.uk/blog/_archives/2008/9/10/3876652.html



4 Responses to “Spill Timing”

  1. René de Bruin Says:
    May 5th, 2009 at 4:51 pm

    Hello Tim,

    You can use the no 1 pipe but it makes judging when it’s “almost there” more difficult.

    Regards,

    René.

  2. Dennis Cook Says:
    May 6th, 2009 at 8:13 am

    Hi Tim,
    Why not use no1 pipe and push a flexible plastic pipe (windscreen washer tubing) over the end to form the “swan”. What you are trying to achieve is an indicator where the vernier coupling will only fit when the sprockets are in line and the pump has reached cut off and no longer allows fuel to pass. You then have fine adjustment by rocking the pump body. Took me a while to appreciate whats going on till the penny dropped.

    Regards,
    Dennis

  3. stuart Says:
    May 28th, 2009 at 11:56 am

    Hi Gents
    I,m from australia and am in the prosses of restoring a tef20 4 cylynder desiel and i am having a big problem getting info and you all seem very switched on.
    My problem is with the injector pump governor at the rear of the pump.It,s all flogged out and i can repair that but the piese that runs from the throttel lever into the diaphram was a nail and i need to replace it to do the job correctly.
    What i,m after is a diagram (picture) of how the assembly works and what parts i will need to make
    hope some one can help
    stuart
    redthe@cqnet.com.au

  4. Steve Says:
    June 17th, 2009 at 1:02 am

    I am also restoring a Ferguson 2 Furrow Mouldboard Plough here in Queensland AUSTRALIA. The plough will on completion require a New ID Plate. Were you able to locate a supplier who is able to supply a New Ferguson ID Plate for the plough. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Steve

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