ploughmyfield.com

I was thinking if you purchase, or posibly make, one of those timing discs you will be able to set it up from the 30deg hole in the fly wheel  and do all the settings from that point, although I quess you will need at least the radiator taken off. Did you do the fine adjustment of the camshaft using the slotted holes in the gear wheel? Can you please do some pictures of the venier pump adjustment when you do it please?
John Morris 

Your site has been an inspiration and true motivator for me for the last
twelve months. I have a TEF of which at least the steering column is
1953. My engine is good, at least it starts, has good pressure and
smokes marginally less than the driver. The back end was less good, the
hydraulics at there on pace, and to their own agenda and the brakes have
long since lost any intention of doing anything useful. As my land is
fairly hilly, this has hugely restricted the usefulness of the tractor.

Hence I have started at the other end to you. The backend is in pieces
and being subjected to the shotblaster and/or wire brush on a piece by
piece basis. I did the wheels first as I needed a quick fillip; they
make a huge difference to how a rusty tractor looks and goes some way to
distracting the wife’s glance away from the hole in the bank balance
caused by this impulse buy.

I hope to have her running again by mid summer so that I can go some way
to doing much of the work I promised on the day that it turned up on the
back of a trailer.

I donated a tenner which woefully inadequate for the services that you
have provided: your site has cheered me, and provided greater solace,
than the three pints that this sum could otherwise have purchased.

Don’t get despondent because of your timing issue. If you know that
your engine is in excellent condition, and it looks fantastic too, then
some relatively ‘minor’ tweaking is a small price to pay for the pride
and general feeling of well being that you have every right to feel when
flying down the road in fourth gear with the wind in your hair and the
gentle burple of your engine as a glorious soundtrack.

All the best

Geoff

Jón

The re-timing is possible without removing major parts but very tough to do
without the proper tool. It can also mean you end up with the pump on a funny angle.

I made the tool required for a “vernier coupling” as it’s called in the manual. It’s the
splined inside as well as outside “bush” that’s in the pump drive. I skimmed of the outside
splines in my lathe and welded a piece of pipe and a T-bar on to it. Now I can turn the
pump drive as it is shown in the manual. Without this you need to turn the entire engine
to perform the “spill cut off” timing on the pump. If you want to take a crack at doing that :

For 32º BTCD timing the pump must be rotated on it’s flange edge 0.863 mm or .034″
I therefore suggest you set the pump at appropriate angle that allows fitting all pipes easily
and then take those off. Mark the pump flange and engine distribution case. Then rotate
the pump the required amount anti-clockwise (from drivers seat). Next set up a the swan
necked pipe and do the spill timing. Leave the setup in place. With the pump set at this
position remove the “vernier” coupling and rotate the engine two revolutions to place the
1/4 bar in the timing hole in the flywheel. Make sure that the pump does not rotate while
doing this. Then insert the “vernier” coupling. It is splined with one spline difference
between inside and outside so a position will need to be found that allows inserting it by
rotating the coupling a spline at a time. With the coupling in remove the 1/4″ bar and
rotate the engine two revolutions. As you approach the position at which the 1/4″ bar can be re-inserted check the spill timing. It should be exactly on the point you can insert the bar.
If not start again. If ok you rotate the pump until the marks made earlier are in line to set
it for 32º.

Regards,

René.